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All taped up and read to shoot.

Easy to work with. I mixed it per instructions and thined it with 12 oz of mek. Sprayed a semi light to medium coat waited an hour sprayed the 2nd coat heavy and it covered great. Lower pressure gave more texture and higher pressure payed it a little more smooth.

Now everyone talks about using two gallons to cover a xj. I used one and it covered great. If I think it needs more later I'll scuff it up and spray the other gallon on it. I let it cure for 15 hrs before I started reassembly. I'm use to painting with regular base clear so I was Leary of piling on to thick.

In between coats clean the mixing paddle and spray out the gun with mek it will start to thicken up in the hour between coats.

I am happy with the texture and the way this stuff sprays. I want to try another with a small compressor that would more likely to be found in the average persons garage to see if it sprays consistent with a smaller 25 or 30 gal 110 single stage compressor.
 
Looks good. I rolled mine orange back in March. I agree 2 gallons was way more than I needed, but one gal not quite enough, maybe 1 and a quart. Looks great. I've been interested to see how a sprayed one looks up close compared to mine rolled.
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That orange looks great
 
Question for OP, How's it holding up, color fade, sheen(chalking), scratch resistance. Have you ever put wax on it ? Did you spray or roll on ? Did you use their primer first ? My clear coat is gone, but paint is ok.

I get a ton of branch scrapes, reason why I don't care to spend $2k on a decent paint job. Got some samples coming, going to test scraping. Just curious about REAL world performance.
 
Your reason is the same reason I did mine. I use it for camping and hunting. Have driven through thick brush and had good size limbs drag down it.

I have had no chipping or peeling what so ever. There has been no chalking and no fading. It is parked outside year round. I have washed it one time since I did it. Bird poop and bugs seem to wash off with rain.

I am extremely happy with it. I sprayed it and have not put any wax or anything on it.
 
What kind of gun did you use? any primer?
 
how much prep work goes into something you're painting with bedliner? do you still have to sand it down to metal to have it come out nice or can you just spray over the factory paint as it's thicker?
 
how much prep work goes into something you're painting with bedliner? do you still have to sand it down to metal to have it come out nice or can you just spray over the factory paint as it's thicker?

Just a point of information about your comment. You don't have to sand down to metal to have paint come out nice. In fact, in most cases that is not what you want to do. If the existing paint is adhering well, just do a 400 grit sand, preferably wet sand, primer, and paint. If you take it down to metal, you need to do a acid etch primer or stabilizer then primer before you paint. On most vehicles if you take it down to metal, you probably want to do a primer, a skim coat of glaze or bondo, then block sand to get rid of imperfections.
 
Do not take it down to metalook. If any spots go to bare metal you have to use a epoxy primer on the metal or the Monstaliner will not stick.
 
Also small door dings disapear with this. If you look hard enough you will find them but the few dings in mine are not noticeable at all.
 
Can that stuff be painted? I want to do a NATO 3-tone on my XJ and M416 trailer and am thinking that might be more durable than rattle-can alone.
 
Yes you can paint over the monstaliner. Dont know about reg spray paint over it though. I do knownfor a fact you can pant more monstaliner over the old and get great adhesion.
 
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