PDA

View Full Version : All taped up and read to shoot.


kippo1
April 9th, 2015, 19:52
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p618/kippo36/image.jpg4_1.jpg (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/kippo36/media/image.jpg4_1.jpg.html)

MT Mike
April 9th, 2015, 20:24
What color?

kippo1
April 10th, 2015, 08:20
OD green. Hopefully I'll be spraying this evening

kippo1
April 11th, 2015, 18:58
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p618/kippo36/image.jpg2_2.jpg (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/kippo36/media/image.jpg2_2.jpg.html)

It's a little darker than in the picture

Ronbo
April 11th, 2015, 20:18
Looks great. What do you think of the product and texture?

kippo1
April 11th, 2015, 20:53
Easy to work with. I mixed it per instructions and thined it with 12 oz of mek. Sprayed a semi light to medium coat waited an hour sprayed the 2nd coat heavy and it covered great. Lower pressure gave more texture and higher pressure payed it a little more smooth.

Now everyone talks about using two gallons to cover a xj. I used one and it covered great. If I think it needs more later I'll scuff it up and spray the other gallon on it. I let it cure for 15 hrs before I started reassembly. I'm use to painting with regular base clear so I was Leary of piling on to thick.

In between coats clean the mixing paddle and spray out the gun with mek it will start to thicken up in the hour between coats.

I am happy with the texture and the way this stuff sprays. I want to try another with a small compressor that would more likely to be found in the average persons garage to see if it sprays consistent with a smaller 25 or 30 gal 110 single stage compressor.

NCCherokee
August 6th, 2015, 11:22
Looks good. I rolled mine orange back in March. I agree 2 gallons was way more than I needed, but one gal not quite enough, maybe 1 and a quart. Looks great. I've been interested to see how a sprayed one looks up close compared to mine rolled.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/06/d0ac08e20ab2083a63c145f1c61f0232.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/06/3ac04708d9892a8bd2c2574e94ac6f44.jpg

IslanderOffRoad
August 6th, 2015, 13:56
That orange looks great

Madmanmarty
August 18th, 2015, 21:27
That orange does look good.

mpulse
January 5th, 2016, 10:00
what is the product you are using

Jay Sco
January 5th, 2016, 10:47
From the boxes on the hoods, I'm assuming it's Monstaliner.
http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_kit_contents.htm

MACH90XJ
April 14th, 2016, 15:34
Question for OP, How's it holding up, color fade, sheen(chalking), scratch resistance. Have you ever put wax on it ? Did you spray or roll on ? Did you use their primer first ? My clear coat is gone, but paint is ok.

I get a ton of branch scrapes, reason why I don't care to spend $2k on a decent paint job. Got some samples coming, going to test scraping. Just curious about REAL world performance.

kippo1
April 20th, 2016, 11:46
Your reason is the same reason I did mine. I use it for camping and hunting. Have driven through thick brush and had good size limbs drag down it.

I have had no chipping or peeling what so ever. There has been no chalking and no fading. It is parked outside year round. I have washed it one time since I did it. Bird poop and bugs seem to wash off with rain.

I am extremely happy with it. I sprayed it and have not put any wax or anything on it.

AIbandit
April 29th, 2016, 14:26
What kind of gun did you use? any primer?

xCWolf
June 1st, 2016, 08:41
how much prep work goes into something you're painting with bedliner? do you still have to sand it down to metal to have it come out nice or can you just spray over the factory paint as it's thicker?

old_man
June 2nd, 2016, 10:22
how much prep work goes into something you're painting with bedliner? do you still have to sand it down to metal to have it come out nice or can you just spray over the factory paint as it's thicker?

Just a point of information about your comment. You don't have to sand down to metal to have paint come out nice. In fact, in most cases that is not what you want to do. If the existing paint is adhering well, just do a 400 grit sand, preferably wet sand, primer, and paint. If you take it down to metal, you need to do a acid etch primer or stabilizer then primer before you paint. On most vehicles if you take it down to metal, you probably want to do a primer, a skim coat of glaze or bondo, then block sand to get rid of imperfections.

kippo1
June 7th, 2016, 21:46
Do not take it down to metalook. If any spots go to bare metal you have to use a epoxy primer on the metal or the Monstaliner will not stick.

kippo1
June 7th, 2016, 21:48
Also small door dings disapear with this. If you look hard enough you will find them but the few dings in mine are not noticeable at all.

2T2-Crash
June 18th, 2016, 00:47
Can that stuff be painted? I want to do a NATO 3-tone on my XJ and M416 trailer and am thinking that might be more durable than rattle-can alone.

kippo1
June 29th, 2016, 00:19
Yes you can paint over the monstaliner. Dont know about reg spray paint over it though. I do knownfor a fact you can pant more monstaliner over the old and get great adhesion.

tjmotter
December 1st, 2016, 14:46
Absolutely true (on the advantages of not stripping to bare metal) but I would amend the point on metal etch primer to add that a good epoxy primer may be a better option. It not only bonds better, it creates a harder surface. Another nice point is that it gives you up to a week to apply the color coat without having to re-sand. During that week, you will still obtain a really strong chemical bond.

Also, rather than trying to apply a skim coat of filler, I find that a couple of coats of high build primer (like Evercoat's Featherfill) is a MUCH easier approach. It is essentially a really thick primer you can shoot directly over the Epoxy primer (I prefer Southern Polyurethane's product both for the price as well as the quality). 2-3 coats gives the perfect base to block sand to a nice flat surface, ready for color.

Just a point of information about your comment. You don't have to sand down to metal to have paint come out nice. In fact, in most cases that is not what you want to do. If the existing paint is adhering well, just do a 400 grit sand, preferably wet sand, primer, and paint. If you take it down to metal, you need to do a acid etch primer or stabilizer then primer before you paint. On most vehicles if you take it down to metal, you probably want to do a primer, a skim coat of glaze or bondo, then block sand to get rid of imperfections.

Greenz
December 2nd, 2016, 23:39
A comment on Monstaliner; This stuff is great. I did a motorcycle (99 Triumph Trophy 1200) in "Lady in Red" this past spring. All parts were plastic except for the gas tank. My plastics were in terrible shape from being dropped several times. Top heavy parking lot drops, not me. There is different prep for coating plastics so if you are doing any, like flares or end caps, read carefully the info at their site. All you need to know is there and very accurate. I had 14 individual pieces to coat. Calculated the area of each part and came up with 29.5 sq feet. According to their site one qt covers 15 sq ft twice. Bought 2 qts and even with the over spray it was the perfect amount.

The finish is what I would say is more satin like in comparison to a gloss. The vibrant red color pops against the black parts of the bike and doesn't need to be gloss. Its not a look for everyone but not one person told me they didn't like it. Quite opposite.

How is it holding up. Perfectly! I rushed putting the bike back together two hours after the last coat was sprayed on. It was dry to the touch but till slightly soft. Takes about a week to fully cure depending on the weather. No scratches at all. I have several bikes and I accidentally scrapped my saddlebag against the turn signal of another bike. About a three inch long mark of metal on Monstaliner. I was sure it was damaged but it wiped mostly off with my finger and spit. Hit it with Windex and the scratch was gone completely. No rock chips at all. No color fade. Product is UV resistant. The bug guts clean off with windex and it gives a cleaner satin shine. I tried several detailer products and waxes. Nothing is as good as cheap Windex. I added $7 vinyl decals to the tank and they have followed the lumpy contours just fine without peeling. Saved me $76 for the Triumph tank decals. I can post pictures but don't want to hijack the thread.

I will be using this on my jeep for sure. I bought the full color sample and discovered "Midnight Special" near perfectly matches my 2001 Patriot Blue. I can coat the exterior and leave the door jams alone. There is a video on youtube of a guy using multiple colors on a Pathfinder. There is some bleeding of color as its difficult to seal tape to the lumps. I thought it came out looking great.

OP I like the OD Green.