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1990 renix high idle? i need help asap

Xj_uwharries

NAXJA Forum User
Location
north carolina
as the title says its idling suddenly at 1200 to 2500 rpms , ive changed the iac,the tps, the cts , new orings on injectors ,map sensor and I have no vacumn leaks! cleaned throttle body etc still no change . I am stumped need renix gurus help please . also 29 to 39 lbs of fuel pressure at rail .

1990 cherokee xj
laredo model
242 tranny
4.0
 
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When you changed the IAC, did you get in there and clean the carbon out of the IAC passage? Maybe its not closing all the way.

beyond that, TPS is next. Did you put in a quality one or a $19 one?
 
Get under the hood and start jiggling the wiring harness. Every wire end to end.

See if you have a short somewhere causing problems.

Also, clean the grounds. Especially the block by the oil filter, that ground gets crap under it and causes issues.
 
When you changed the TPS did you adjust it?

These aren't exact numbers but just indicators. A 1200 RPM idle can be an open small vacuum nipple on the intake manifold and/or a smaller broken vacuum line. A 2000 RPM idle can be an open larger vacuum nipple or line. 2000 plus RPM can be a wet TPS. You really have to be careful about keeping the TPS dry either water or spray oil/solvent or whatever can get inside and cause all sorts of grief.

Your IAC may be stuck open, you can look down the IAC inlet with a flashlight and may get some idea of the IAC piston position.

The large vacuum line to the vacuum canister behind the right front bumper tends to rot under the battery tray. The canister can break its mounts and the vacuum lines can come loose.
 
Bad (or not perfect, it needs to be 1 ohm or less!!!!!) TPS ground can do this.

Bad IAT Intake Air temperature sensor can also do this. Or both!!

A stick floor mat under the gas peddle does it too :eek:
 
New tPS MUST be adjusted.


RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT

Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done.

1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.

2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.

TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES

Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you
have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.

Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.

TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES

RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.

However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.

For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used.
Revised 12-15-2013
 
as mentioned, set the TPS properly.
Check the grounds
check the grounds
check the grounds

renix doesn't like electrical noise and crappy grounds contributes.
I'd also look over the MAP sensor vacuum line carefully. I had one with a torn rubber boot that looked fine, would randomly idle high, touch it and it would fluctuate. I've also had a cracked vacuum reservoir do it, a leaky brake booster can also do weird things and as it sounds your brakes are not tip top is a good suspect. Your brakes should be able to hold 4 low until the converter stalls.

easiest way to diagnose it is to go get a bunch of rubber caps at the parts store and start disconnecting lines at the manifold.
 
Re torque intake/exhaust manifold bolts/nuts. 2k rpm's is a sign of a large air leak, dropping down as you warm up leads me to I/E manifold bolts. Cheap and easy to check anyways.
 
grounds .

Check for intake/exhaust/vacuum leaks.

Sounds like you popped off multiple vacuum lines and the one to the booster.

my money is on ICA/TPS being bad, or wiring to them bad, /intake/exhaust/vacuum leaks

A new TPS can be bad.
Did you adjust the TPS properly?


run a jumper wire to the TPS ground.

Check Grounds again.

consider changing the o2 sensor as well.

also, make sure your TV cable is adjusted and also that no throttle cables are sticking.

2500rpm at idle is horrible.


did your cruise control cable pop out or something random with a throttle cable ?


can you post pics of your engine bay so we can see if you have anything obvious going on?
 
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To jump that high of rpms, you need a fairly large size vacuum leak. Block off the power brake booster.

Pretty much, if the IAC isn't opening, and you don't have another source of air, and the throttle plate isn't opening, you can't really get that high of rpms. Especially since you said it will overpower the brakes. That takes a fairly high torque and that requires fuel AND air.
 
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