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Stroker cooling: all new stock or upgraded??

nectarXJ

nectarXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Utah
I'm already shelling out $$$ for the 4.5 stroker build and will be replacing all the cooling system stuff anyway (waterpump, thermostat, radiator, mechanical fan clutch, etc.). But is it worth it to "upgrade" the cooling system components or just get new "stock" stuff? Funding is definitely NOT unlimited.

For example Hesco has some "high-flow" cooling products that I found (waterpump, thermostat, thermostat-housing, etc) but they are $$$ compared to stock stuff:
http://www.hesco.us/products/7882/cooling-system

Am I screwed with a 4.5 stroker if I _don't_ upgrade the cooling but just do all new stock stuff? Or maybe just the radiator is upgraded and everything else is (new) stock stuff??

Thoughts welcome (thanks in advance).
 
Stock parts "in good condition" work fine.

If you need to upgrade, make sure to get a lower hose with a spring, stay away from the "trick" water pumps, and no plastic radiator parts..
 
My 4.7 has been my coolest, most stabil inline 6 ive ever ran.... that being said, there isnt many stock parts on it. The water pump is stock though.
 
Thanks guys!

bigdaddyjlove said:
Stock parts "in good condition" work fine.

If you need to upgrade, make sure to get a lower hose with a spring, stay away from the "trick" water pumps, and no plastic radiator parts..
Click to expand...

If I get a new bottom hose w/o a spring and just reuse the spring from the current hose would that still be okay or would I just be being a cheap-a$$? lol

What do you mean by "trick" water pumps?

The stock radiator has plastic ends. I am already thinking to get an all metal one for the replacement. I've read tons of threads (and flame wars) on here and all over the web about which radiator is better 1 core vs 2 core (vs 3 core), brand x vs brand y, etc. Honestly I'm not sure what to buy. What all metal radiator brand would you recommend? Number of cores?
 
For most strokers, a new (oem) water pump, stant radiator cap and standard (not standard T series) thermostat and a 2 or 3 core all metal radiator and you're good to go for up to about 300 horses.

beyond that it can get more complicated, but if you were there, you wouldn't be asking us the questions. :)

Replace your fan clutch with a new OEM one or an upgraded unit.

Forget trying to go electric.
 
If you want to look more into extreme cooling:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1075100

Read posts:

579-580 - Fitting the 'big' griffin alum radiator (2 core, 2.5" thick, rated to 700 horses, part number 5-591LB-FAX)


1328 - Trans cooler install

1375 - Pushing radiator forward to make room for a bigger fan

1379-1382 - Oil cooler install (with bigger oil filter)
 
Yeah, I doubt I'm pushing 300hp. Sounds like I'd be fine with a stock (new parts) cooling system but an all metal radiator.

As for the replacing the fan clutch and keeping the mechanical fan, I think the mechanical fan is often over looked. When it's working properly I've read the mech fan can push upwards of 5000 cfm! That's much more than the electric fans. It's easy to over look a failed fan clutch though. I wonder how many cooling problems are a result of not getting any of that 5000 cfm because the clutch is shot. I guess one downside to keeping the mech fan is that the engine has to turn the fan thus losing a few hp.

Thanks for the info and link.
 
Reusing the spring is fine, especially since they are getting tough to find new.

The plastic capped radiiator are "ok" until they aren't. the plastic gets brittle and can crack when changing hoses, the caps separate from the core, and all metal rads are common and cheep enough to make putting another plastic one foolish.

The "hi flow" water pumps usually have extra fins rivited onto the impeller. i have never seen a benifit, and it looks like a failure point.

One mod i do have good experience with, is a high pressure cap. stock is 13#, a tj cap is 16#. this has seemd to help mine when running hard in the summer.






nectarXJ said:
Thanks guys!



If I get a new bottom hose w/o a spring and just reuse the spring from the current hose would that still be okay or would I just be being a cheap-a$$? lol

What do you mean by "trick" water pumps?

The stock radiator has plastic ends. I am already thinking to get an all metal one for the replacement. I've read tons of threads (and flame wars) on here and all over the web about which radiator is better 1 core vs 2 core (vs 3 core), brand x vs brand y, etc. Honestly I'm not sure what to buy. What all metal radiator brand would you recommend? Number of cores?
Click to expand...
 
bigdaddyjlove said:
That looks better than the one's I've seen before. Do you think it provides a benefit?
Click to expand...

I've read on forums before (so take it with a grain of salt) that Jeep changed the water pump design in the "newest" TJs to incorporate the impeller design that Hesco and Flowkooler use. Whether or not that's actually true, I have no idea. Hesco has a good picture of the difference on their website...

http://www.hesco.us/products/7967/h...he-high-flow-water-pump-hf58-455#.VQmS5uH4Fsc
 
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