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moving the front axle forward

NorCalChris

NorCalChris

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Central Coast, Ca
Hey guys, I want to push my front axle as far forward as possible without relocating my steering box. I will be moving my panhard mount forward as well. (RE1665)

1. I'm building my own control arms soon. Oem bushing on frame side, heim or currie JJ on axle side. Uppers will use factory bushings on axle side.
2. I want to "stretch" as far as I can. I'm not sure how to measure how far I can go. Any help here would be awesome. I'd rather learn what I'm doing then just trust someone saying "you can move it 17 inchs forward no problem"
3. I don't want my steering to fall part basically or wear out prematurely. So having my geometry set correctly is important. I plan on getting a lot more desert use, so during higher speeds it needs to handle well.

Thanks ahead of time for your assistance.
 
How much lift?
What size tires?
And do you plan on staying at that size or going bigger? (Tires)
 
Jbh97009 said:
How much lift?
What size tires?
And do you plan on staying at that size or going bigger? (Tires)
Click to expand...

Hmm. Not sure how that's revelant. I run 37x12.5r17 mtr-k's currently. Roughly 6 inches trying to get down to 5. My question doesn't involve fitting of my tires. All needed clearancing will be done. I just don't want to get into moving my steering box and messing with the steering shaft . I thought I read somewhere you can go about 4inchs forward, but I don't know if that's the truth. I'd really enjoy learning what it is I need to measure to KNOW I haven't gone too far. Obviously if my drag link is hitting my track bar I'm having issues.
 
My axle is about 2" forward from factory with my mid arms. Typically,center-ish in the wheel well is where you want to be.
 
2" is about max. I'm 1.5" with 42's, once I go full hydro it will be another 1.5"
 
I cant comment on your setup but I moved my D30 forward 1" and it looks like I have room for maybe another 1-2" but there are a lot of angles down there to get tied up. The jounce bump towers are close to rubbing the rear of the coil on stuff. Axle-side track bar mount gets bound up when the axle is moved forward. Stabilizer on the drag link gets in its own way. With the size you're running I'm guessing that some of this stuff probably doesn't matter, some of it might be more important. Large differential probably wants to smack everything up there.
 
pitman arm to tie rod clearance at full compression was my limiter with the high steer on my D44, then 609.

Keep in mind that the D30 coil pads are actually off set forward from axle tube centerline, so you'll be cutting and welding to do this right. As well as the shock angles get to be a bit much with the factory mounts (for the pin style top)

Probably best to pull the coils, wheels and tires, cycle it to full stuff. Also remember that when it turns, the tie rod moves closer to the housing - so if you line it up exactly in between the pitman arm and trackbar mount, make sure you can still turn the thing.

With factory height tie rod (or maybe even over the knuckle) you might be able to push a little more.

Go too much and you're looking at a lot of cost - new driveshaft, all new links, new axle brackets to place the bottom of the coil / coil pad, new shocks potentially.

Also put the tires back on and check your inner fender tire clearance. The factory computer mount location, battery, air box all may have to be moved to re-make inner fenders that clear the now moved forward tire at full articulation and turn.
 
Last edited:
Everything I've gathered is 2" is about it without serious work. When I get my 44 built I plan to move mine forward just a bit, maybe 1", for me I don't see any reason to go anymore. I'm at 5" with 37" tires too.


Just play around a little while your mocking everything up and see what you can get away with
 
pitman arm to tie rod clearance is a biggie, I got parks on my tie rod from the head of the bolt on my pitman arm hitting it and that with my tie rod mounted under the hi steer arms on my 60
 
FB_IMG_1414178438131.jpg
This is what I'm working with.
 
XJ_ranger said:
pitman arm to tie rod clearance at full compression was my limiter with the high steer on my D44, then 609.

Keep in mind that the D30 coil pads are actually off set forward from axle tube centerline, so you'll be cutting and welding to do this right. As well as the shock angles get to be a bit much with the factory mounts (for the pin style top)

Probably best to pull the coils, wheels and tires, cycle it to full stuff. Also remember that when it turns, the tie rod moves closer to the housing - so if you line it up exactly in between the pitman arm and trackbar mount, make sure you can still turn the thing.

With factory height tie rod (or maybe even over the knuckle) you might be able to push a little more.

Go too much and you're looking at a lot of cost - new driveshaft, all new links, new axle brackets to place the bottom of the coil / coil pad, new shocks potentially.

Also put the tires back on and check your inner fender tire clearance. The factory computer mount location, battery, air box all may have to be moved to re-make inner fenders that clear the now moved forward tire at full articulation and turn.
Click to expand...


From the research I've done to answer this question, this post pretty much covers everything.

In general, 2" is the commonly quoted maximum from the folks who have done it. I'm in the process of planning a new axle build for my rig sometime this year and it's going to get all new brackets and I'll be aiming for about 2" of stretch but will end up with whatever works once I get it mocked up.
 
I've pushed mine forward, not sure how much from stock, as mine was farther back (aft) do to short arms. there were two reasons I moved mine forward:

1. straighten curved coils
2. put the tire back in the center of the wheel well.

However, I believe my tire is actually slightly forward of the wheel well center line, but only 1-1.5" My axle has the coils centered over the axle as well. I had to move my TB bracket forward to accommodate.

 
How did you move the bracket? Weld onto stiffeners?
 
Exactly how I pictured it. Are you still running stock axle end location?
 
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