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8.8 vs 8.25

kenmando

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I am planning a SYE install with associated spring perch relocation; rear disk conversion; 4.88 diff gear install and ARB install. I have a contact that can do all with a 8.8 install that is less $$$ than modifying the present 8.25. Opinions. Seems like some think I will be digging trenches with the 4.88 even though the actual overhang distance is about 1/2" between the two. Any real experience would be appreciated. This seems to be a real charged issue. Flames abound.
 
what's the issue? an 8.8 is a stronger axle. the only reason not to swap one is expense. you seem to have that already sorted out...

next.
 
The 8.8 is the superior axle, hands down. A built 8.8 can take tons of abuse. The 8.8 has two weaknesses from the factory, the factory carrier ( which your ARB will be addressing ) and the c-clips ( I used the Yukon ultimate 88 kit to address this and upgrade to chromo shafts ). If you address these two issues it becomes an incredibly capable axle. If by "overhang" you are referring to a loss of ground clearance, the difference is very negligible. I do not remember the exact measurement, but I do remember laughing at myself for worrying about it. If you want to go crazy with it you can shave it and get an increase in ground clearance from the 8.25 ( not worth the trouble in my opinion ). I run the 8.8 with 4.88's on 35" mtr-k's with an OX locker, I have ZERO regrets chunking the 8.25.
 
a built 8.8 will handle abuse just don't use a stock carrier but looks like u don't plan to so ur good 2 go. on that note I have personally seen 2 split carriers on 8.8s open and locked situations with stock carriers
 
What are the perceived vs "real" weaknesses of the 8.25?

I often read comments like "The 8.8 is the superior axle, hands down".. but I'm not sure I've seen many (if any) comments on actual 8.25 failures. Maybe I'm not looking very hard. I know they have c-clips but in reality how often is this an issue? Does the 8.25 spin tubes? break carriers? bend?

Now, if I were in the OP position, I'd go 8.8 simply because it's cheaper. The 8.8 has more aftermarket support but I guess that may or may not matter depending on what you want to do.
 
8.8 vs 8.25

Discs >> Drums
31 spline >> 29 or 27 spline
8.8 Ring gear >> 8.25 ring gear
Massive pinion >> smaller pinion
More aftermarket support >>> less aftermarket support
Allows deeper than 4.88 >>> max out at 4.88
weld tubes= weld tubes
C clip elim kits exist > c clip
Break a shaft with discs and Clips calipers hold in shaft >>>break a shaft with drums
 
I'm in a similar situation but with a few more compromises.

1) I'm at least the 29 spline 8.25 so that's good news.
2) I already have a nice diff, Detriot TruTrac so that's added cost to the 8.8 if I replicated. I like the helical gears for road manners.
3) I already have ZJ rear disks standing buy. Otherwise I'd say getting the disc brakes with an 8.8 is solid advantage.
4) I'm debating seriously doing links and coils. I don't like that the 8.8 is narrower WMS-WMS than the 8.25. That said, I kind of feel a bit nuts going to effort of linking up a 8.25.

Either one would get trussed but I haven't done so yet. Is the general vote still 8.8? I've been looking at a few hardcore axles but they get so heavy fast...

Still worth it to go 8.8?
I'm kinda thinking pull out axles from a JKU might be a good place to be as adding a few inches width would make everything with coilovers easier.
 
8.8 vs 8.25

Discs >> Drums
31 spline >> 29 or 27 spline
8.8 Ring gear >> 8.25 ring gear
Massive pinion >> smaller pinion
More aftermarket support >>> less aftermarket support
Allows deeper than 4.88 >>> max out at 4.88
weld tubes= weld tubes
C clip elim kits exist > c clip
Break a shaft with discs and Clips calipers hold in shaft >>>break a shaft with drums

That's a good summary of specs. I'd like to hear peoples real-world experience as well, especially 8.25 failures along with basic jeep mods. Every axle has it's breaking point, I just don't think that the actual limits of an 8.25 are well known / documented.

kenmando, what tire size and type of wheeling are you planning for? I'm a mild weekend mountain wheeler (more mud than rocks). I've been running an 8.25. I currently run 33's with ZJ discs and an auto-locker. For my application the 8.25 has held up without issue. Just like 831_xj, my worry lies in the front D30.
 
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There's nothing at all wrong with the 8.25 if you've already got a 29 spline unit and have already begun upgrading things on it. Most folks on here aren't going to be burning up 8.25's. If you haven't done a thing, and you can get a cheap 8.8 then it should be a no brainer.
 
Been running a 8.25 on my white Xj for a while locked on 33's, and now on 36/13.50 iroks, no issues. I do have chromo shafts though.

I also ran another Xj with the same tires (36/13.50 bias iroks) for years locked, unknown shafts (don't know spline count or if they were stock or not)

I'd say that's pushing the limits of a 8.25, but for 35" and smaller I wouldn't bother getting rid of the 8.25 for anything else.

I'm building a hp44 for the front, but until I find an issue with the 8.25 it's staying
 
I wouldn't let the tube spinning issue steer you away from an 8.8. I've seen a 14 bolt spin tubes, granted it was under a full-size. I've had zero issues from my 8.8, just have the tubes welded when the perches are done.
 
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