Smoke coming from Oil Dip-Stick Tube!

I have a '96 2 Door XJ w/ 4.0 HO Engine.
It has 223K+ miles on Orig. Engine.
Recently Replaced All Sensors. Installed Ford 4 Hole Injectors w/ New O-Rings.
New Battery & 4GA Cables (Incl. GNDs), Cap, Rotor, & Sensor Plate.
Mallory 50K V Coil. 8.5mm Plug Wires. New Copper Plugs Gapped @ .040.
Cold Air Intake & New Air Filter. Also Replaced CPS, NSS, Fuel Pump & Filter.

Ran Great 4 about 3 wks & Now it's Stumbling & Almost Dying at Idle & Low Speeds.
Runs GREAT at Highway Speeds. Just Doesn't Want to Idle or Go Slow.
Checked All Connections & Everything is Tight.

That's when I Noticed Smoke Coming from the Dip-Stick Tube!
Looks 2 me Like Maybe Bad Rings?
Also has Smoke coming from Valve Cover Breather.
Only Smokes After it Warms Up.

Any Ideas? This is my DD. Should I Keep Driving It or Not?
Gonna Borrow or Rent a Compression Tester this Weekend.
May Also Need to Pull the Valve Cover 2 take a Look See.

UncleSarge58

Had a sbc that did this. Bad rings was the cause.

#1 it's not smoke, it's blow by.

#2. Compression / leak down test will tell you the health of the cylinders, pistons, rings and valves.

#3. ALWAYS start with the simple stuff first. Make sure all your CCV related lines and hoses are functioning properly. I mean pull each hose, make sure none are clogged and go from there.....

IF...you don't drive it a lot, it could just be condensation that is not getting hot enough to burn up...which may explain both the "smoke"...or rather steam out the tube AND the bit of water on the stick
OR...when was the last time you checked, cleaned, blew out your CCV tube. If the crankcase is not venting properly this could be the cause of the steam/smoke coming out the tube (aka it's gotta go somewhere). Just for fun, while it's emitting smoke...take off the oil cap and see if the smoke out the tube stops and smoke comes out the cap.


Do a compression check and/or a leak down test to eliminate a cracked head or gasket. Pressure test the cooling system. Test for exhaust gases in the coolant too.
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Can you quantify how much blow by gases are coming out the dipstick?

firehawk is right, you need to do a compression/leak down check. While you could have condensation issues I doubt that is what is causing the poor running.

I agree with firehawk, run a leak-down test. All you do is put compressed air in the cylinder with the valves closed and see where it goes. If it comes out the dipstick tube then you have ring troubles plain and simple. Now as far as you runs great down the road but idles like crap that sounds like vacuum. Vacuum leaks tend to get less problematic as rpm's increase.

Did a Compression Test yesterday - All 6 Cyl. Over 150lbs & Steady (No Leakdown)
Checked the Plugs & None were Fouled Just a Nice Tan or Light Gray.
Did have to Clean Out the CCV Line (Clogged w/ Choc Milkshake)
Also (Splatter) Welded Hole in Header at "Y" Best I Could.
Seems to Run a Little Better & Quieter. But, Still Cuts Out at Low Speeds.
I'm thinkin that It Is either a Cracked Head or Head Gasket Gone North.
Gonna Try some Stop-Leak as a Bandaid, for Now.
Have No Choice. No Cash & it's my Only Vehicle.
US58

A compression test will not show leak down. They have a one way valve that will not leak down until you manually release the pressure. How's the oil in the pan? If it's nice and golden with no milkshake I'd hold off on putting any stop leak in. A bad HG normally shows up as low compression between 2 adjacent cylinders but yours are consistent across all 6. If you see milkshake on the dipstick it could be a cracked head leaking water into the combustion chamber and passed the rings if they are worn. Are you losing coolant? I'd let someone do a leak down test on it before going any further.

My 87 did that. turned out to be just a clogged valve cover breather.Got a "Mr. Gasket" chrome W/outlet.Ran the hose to cold air tube

Oil in Pan is OK. (N0 Milkshake)
Starting to Run like it did before I Replaced the CPS.
Maybe the New one has Failed Too?

Wish this Dang thing had Just a Pointless Distributor & a 2Bbl. Carb.
It would B So Much Easier to Keep Runnin!

Anyone Know of a Carb that Will Bolt On to the Stock Manifold?
I know I can get the Distributor from Summit.

Been Seriuosly Thinkin "bout goin' this Route.
Would Do Away with 4-5 Pesky Failure Prone Sensors & the Injectors.
This would Eliminate Lots, if not All of the Failure Prone Components.
Sure would B a Lot Cheaper & Easier to Diagnose.

Anyone ever Convert the Overly Complex MPI System to a Simple Carb. & Dist. Syst? Any Advice on Carb. Adapters, Manifolds, Wiring Mods, Etc?

US58