Putting in a new engine - what else to do?

227k on a 2000 XJ and the ol' 4.0 decided it didn't like one of its piston skirts anymore.

I'm replacing the

alternator (anyone know the compatibility of an upgrade for a 2000, I'm finding a lot of info on earlier ones with different plugs)
Wiring upgrade if so
Starter - just NAPA or is there a better upgrade?
Radiator - only has 45k on it, but its out, so why not
Water pump of course - just a stock parts store replacement?
Thermostat
All rubber hoses.
Spark plugs
POR15 firewall (michigan)
flywheel - upgrades? Is there anything that will be crack-free
Torque converter? Is this needed or a good idea even?

Am I missing anything that now would be a good time to do?

Engine mounts, I replaced those with Mtn. Off Road Exp. See Tony SS's thread on engine mounts.

JeepsterXJ said:

alternator (anyone know the compatibility of an upgrade for a 2000, I'm finding a lot of info on earlier ones with different plugs)

Click to expand...

The terminal block changed in 99. Durango 136 should have the new style.

Radiator - only has 45k on it, but its out, so why not

Click to expand...

Radiator isn't a "wear" item its a working/not-working item. Save your money unless you are overhauling the whole cooling system and switching to dual-core or something.

Water pump of course - just a stock parts store replacement?

Click to expand...

The NAPA premium has worked fine for me since my swap several years ago. There are some performance pumps, FlowKooler I think, maybe some electric options out there.

Thermostat

Click to expand...

Stant Superstat, and make sure to get a radiator cap that is clearly labeled as a relief cap--cheap cap will just boil over instead of working with the overflow tube/bottle

Spark plugs

Click to expand...

Basic autolite plugs. I used the ones for RENIX engines because something about the temperature that I no longer recall. High-quality wires are more important than fancy spark plugs. Accel has a tune-up kit for the 4.0 that has everything. I also added their coil.

Torque converter? Is this needed or a good idea even?

Click to expand...

The only aftermarket TCs that I'm aware of (not remans but actual performance products) have higher stall speeds for high-rev off-the-line racing. Everything else you would want a lower stall speed to boost your low-RPM performance, and I'm not aware of any.

Am I missing anything that now would be a good time to do?

Click to expand...

Replace all your sensors with new Standard or dealer parts. Put your old ones in a ziplock baggie with your spare tire.

New injectors if you haven't replaced them already. I also replaced all my ignition parts. Fuller combustion is the only way to increase power without changing the amount of air in the chambers.

Wow, thanks for the great response! I just bought new mounts (from brown dog, already ordered before post), stant (super)thermostat, cap and sensors. I think I have a spare set of plugs.

I'll get an '00 Durango alt and see if that works.

Can't seem to find the flexplates other than one at Morris 4x4.

Where is the best place for injectors/brand?

Inspect the brake line for the front brakes that runs along the firewall. Being from Michigan my front brake line was rusted as it passed through to each front brake hose. Replaced mine while my engine was out. PITA with it in.

Check the track bar mount nut on the frame end. Mine was a ball of rust so I replaced it. It would be a PITA to get to with the engine installed. Bad enough getting it out with the engine removed. POR 15 that whole fitting area.

Check the power steering hoses (tubes) for heavy rust. Mine were ate with rust. Easy to replace with the engine out.

Replace the front differential vent hose if it looks even close to being dry rotted.

Consider flushing your AC Condenser while its out. They sell the flush stuff at O'reilly.

Crank Position Sensor. It's somewhat of a pain to replace, and if you do it now, it gives you a known working spare for problem determination later.

I'd also probably replace the trans mount as well. Obviously belts and hoses, and if your year has the plastic heater control valve, it won't hurt to get one of those.

David Bricker / SYR

Fuel injectors
New Hose clamps to go on new hoses, get the good tbolt ones, use of the screw type shortens hose life.
Make sure your pwr steering doesnt leak at all. New hoses if needed. New o-rings if needed.

I wouldnt replace a cps or radiator just because. The new Cps is probably hit or miss, while you know the old one works. I wouldnt just replace a radiator that was in good working condition, but maybe you have your reason.
Fun times.

xcm said:

I wouldnt replace a cps or radiator just because. The new Cps is probably hit or miss, while you know the old one works.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't either, necessarily, but it makes a great way of getting a known working spare. Considering the hit and miss of new CPS units, I'd be hesitant of carrying a new one as a spare. If you don't feel you want a spare, then I wouldn't replace it.

David Bricker / SYR

Plan on keeping this keep forever so I got a new CPS and new injectors. Will bag the current one. Brake lines were a good suggestion, mine are looking crusty. Got hex versions of the top two trans bellhousing bolts since those were a PITA.

JeepsterXJ said:

alternator (anyone know the compatibility of an upgrade for a 2000, I'm finding a lot of info on earlier ones with different plugs)

Click to expand...

Search. There is a direct replacement (side from some clearinging grinding) from a Dakota or some such.

Wiring upgrade if so

Click to expand...

at least 2 gauge

Starter

Click to expand...

If the starter is working leave it.

Radiator

Click to expand...

see starter

Spark plugs

Click to expand...

NGK, and NTK O2 sensors

flywheel - upgrades?

Click to expand...

you have a flex plate if you have a torque converter. Inspect it and replace if cracked. No upgrades available

Torque converter?

Click to expand...

If its working fine then leave it.