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2000 XJ 4.0L Popping / Sputtering Problem

5108696

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
2000 Cherokee Sport / 4.0 L / Auto XMSN / 4 x 4 / 227k mi / Orig from NJ

I have had this Jeep for about six months. In the beginning I experienced a minor sputter every once in a while which I attributed to dirty fuel as it had been sitting a few months. I ran clean gas and a bottle of quality Sea foam fuel cleaner / additive. Obviously, that didn't fix it.
Early on, the problem could be described as an occasional sputtering, chugging, but without any popping or back firing. It normally lasted only a few minutes then went back to purring like a kitten with plenty of power on it's own. The check engine light also blinks during the sputtering period.
While I normally get 18 mpg, as the occurrence of the sputtering problem frequency increased, the mileage sometimes drops to 12 mpg...
More recently, the problem occurred like clockwork when I shut it off to fill up and restarted. It lasted only long enough for me to idle through the parking lot and stopped as I got back on the road. Thinking it may have something to do with the old, cruddy, fuel cap, I replaced it with the recommended unit from Auto Zone.
While there I had them read the codes. Nothing jumped out at me, but they mentioned (from memory) a random misfire on cyl #3, some sort of fuel line issue (vacuum issue?), etc.
I then checked all vacuum lines and fixed a couple of minor leaks due to deteriorated lines / fittings.
I should mention that the exhaust was rotted off from the Cat back when I got it and I replaced the rotted items with a turbo muffler, and a tailpipe. The problem was no different before / after.
Most recently, as the malfunction frequency continued to increase, and NOT go away on its own but rather continue as you drive, the following occurred....
I drove it on the highway for approx 40 miles. All ok. Oil pressure always reads max. Water temp was normal at 200*. Upon reaching my destination, I noted a bit more engine / valve-train noise than usual.
After it sat for several hours, I started it and the popping, pulsing through the gas pedal, back firing at an idle started (first time ever).
I checked the oil which was still clean and at the proper level, but I observed (first occurrence) nasty, flakey, carbon flakes on the dipstick above the oil level.
Having no other choice, I drove it home.
The backfiring stopped just above idle. It sputtered during acceleration, however once at speed, it smoothed out, but had a noticeable reduction in power. It ran ok at a steady 60-70 mph, but was weak going up hills.
Since then I checked the oil again – proper level, clean, and with no water. The coolant level was a bit below the proper level but not milky either.
The popping is really bad and I have stopped running it until I can figure out what is happening.
I thank you all in advance for your help.
Merry Christmas!
Rick

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213293&v=3
 
Sputtering, backfiring ,and stalling combined with a 20-30% drop in gas mpg's suggest O2 sensor issues. O2 sensors are a routine maintenance item with an approximate service life of about 100,000 miles.

I suggest testing the O2 sensor, sensor wires, and checking the O2 sensor fuse. If you replace the O2 sensor only use NTK O2 sensors, Bosch O2 sensors are known to cause problems when installed in Jeeps.
 
Sputtering, backfiring ,and stalling combined with a 20-30% drop in gas mpg's suggest O2 sensor issues. O2 sensors are a routine maintenance item with an approximate service life of about 100,000 miles.

I suggest testing the O2 sensor, sensor wires, and checking the O2 sensor fuse. If you replace the O2 sensor only use NTK O2 sensors, Bosch O2 sensors are known to cause problems when installed in Jeeps.

Thanks Tim.

I performed the PCM reset procedure today. Not expecting much, I wasn't disappointed much either.

I will look into the procedure for testing the O2 sensors tomorrow, however i read somewhere that bad sensors alone won't cause an immediate misfire on start up.... something about the computer not reading them immediately due to the exhaust gasses not yet being heated up..

Any ideas on that?

Do you know which fuses ere the correct ones for the O2 sensors? I have an electronic service manual, but haven't seen a legend for which are which...

Thank you again for your help.

Rick
 
Sputtering, backfiring ,and stalling combined with a 20-30% drop in gas mpg's suggest O2 sensor issues. O2 sensors are a routine maintenance item with an approximate service life of about 100,000 miles.

I suggest testing the O2 sensor, sensor wires, and checking the O2 sensor fuse. If you replace the O2 sensor only use NTK O2 sensors, Bosch O2 sensors are known to cause problems when installed in Jeeps.

Hello again,

[2000 XJ 4.0 L / 4x4 / Auto tranny / pre-cats, turbo, 2 1/2" tailpipe.]

Thank you Tim for the pointers. All I need now is guidance on how to 'test' the sensors..

In the meantime, I had some time to piddle (that is southern for tinker) with it. I removed the coil pack bar and tested it using the multi meter.

With no specific knowledge on how to do so, I checked each pin against the other with the following results in ohms (200 ohm setting):
(all numbers refer to the pin referenced with the clip facing up)
1/2 = 1.1 1/3 = 1.8 1/4 = 1.9 2/3 = 1.1 2/4 = 1.1 3/4 = 1.1 & 1.8 (could be an error on my part)

Compression check on each cylinder yielded:
1 = 140 2 = 140 3 = 135 4 = 130 5 = 160 6 = 150

Upon getting it all back together, it cranked very easily, but immediately began popping through the intake. Here is a sound recording of that.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9EF666F89D644D14!3951&authkey=!AD8YwFVwFgu-LVM&ithint=file%2cm4a

There is still no water in the oil or increase in level. Also, no evidence of oil in the coolant although the level has dropped.

Also during the teardown, I pulled the cam position sensor and checked the clocking. Unfortunately I accidentally turned it in the meantime, but I think it could have been offset by ~90 deg. After cleaning it up, I aligned it with a small punch and reinstalled it with cylinder #1 at TDC on the compression stroke - and the timing mark on "0".

After starting the first time, I rotated the CPS slightly to try and work the popping out, but no luck. I left it pretty much parallel with the block.

I also noted some wetness along the block / head joint near the oil filter, but couldn't determine if it was oil or water.

On a final note, during the brief starts, it blew rusty water out of the tail pipe.... I suspect that the head, or the gasket at a minimum is toast, but I need to hear it from an expert to believe it.

There is a mechanic in my neighborhood who has a scanner whom I am going to have scan it again soon, but in the meantime,,,,
what say the experts?

Thank you in advance!

Rick
 
Pull the plugs and post pics of each one per cylinder. Sounds kinds like a faulty fuel injector/the notorious vapor lock issue
 
Pull the plugs and post pics of each one per cylinder. Sounds kinds like a faulty fuel injector/the notorious vapor lock issue

Here they are.

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213956&v=3

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213955&v=3

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213954&v=3

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213953&v=3

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213952&v=3

I lost a couple of photos. These all look the same to me, but if something looks suspicious, I can match it up to the proper cylinder number.

Rick
 
Last edited:
Pull the plugs and post pics of each one per cylinder. Sounds kinds like a faulty fuel injector/the notorious vapor lock issue

Would the vapor lock issue occur even when the engine is cold?

The current problem occurs the instant you crank it till you shut it off.

While I think the original, spurratic missing could very well have been the vapor lock thing, I am leaning toward the blown head now...
 
Those plugs are definitely in need of a change.

However, this plug looks like the cylinder is having some problems: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF6...6F89D644D14!3952&v=3&authkey=!AD8YwFVwFgu-LVM

Also, what is up with the push rod pic on your OneDrive?

Thanks Talyn.

I will research which plug that is, but I just discovered the displaced pushrod. I suspect that when that exhaust (?) valve doesnt open, when the intake does, the air must go somewhere - thus back into the intake. Am I correct?
 
I will research which plug that is, but I just discovered the displaced pushrod. I suspect that when that exhaust (?) valve doesnt open, when the intake does, the air must go somewhere - thus back into the intake. Am I correct?
Yes, the air will be pushed out the intake. However, the pushrod bouncing around does create quiet a racket. Don't just put the push rod back and think you are good to go. They don't pop out w/o a reason. Look for a broken spring, failed lifter or failed cam lobe to start with.
That is plug #4. If my memory is correct, cylinder #4 is where the weak spot in the head is. Could it be there is water fouling this plug?
The weak spot is under the valve cover. Between cylinder #3 & #4. If the usually 0331 crack happened the coolant would enter the oil, not the cylinder. That plug looks wet with oil or gas. Or could be an ignition problem. Or the plug was just not firing well because it was worn. However, #4 does display lower compression.
 
Yes, the air will be pushed out the intake. However, the pushrod bouncing around does create quiet a racket. Don't just put the push rod back and think you are good to go. They don't pop out w/o a reason. Look for a broken spring, failed lifter or failed cam lobe to start with.
The weak spot is under the valve cover. Between cylinder #3 & #4. If the usually 0331 crack happened the coolant would enter the oil, not the cylinder. That plug looks wet with oil or gas. Or could be an ignition problem. Or the plug was just not firing well because it was worn. However, #4 does display lower compression.

Soooo, at this point, are you saying the crack, being on the top of the head, should be visible from the top? And if the head gasket were blown, it should be evident by a low compression reading, no? AND, I think there is a coolant stain beneath the 3/4 spark plugs (below the block)..... Could the head gasket be blown in #4 causing the exterior leak and the water blowing out of the exhaust?

Probably a good idea to proceed with pulling the head for further inspection, no?
 
Soooo, at this point, are you saying the crack, being on the top of the head, should be visible from the top?
yes.
And if the head gasket were blown, it should be evident by a low compression reading, no?
That could be a possible symptom of a blown head gasket.
AND, I think there is a coolant stain beneath the 3/4 spark plugs (below the block).....
There is no coolant on that side of the block(passenger) in that area that can leak out. There is no water jacket on the side of the block in that area. If the head gasket was leaking coolant on the passenger side it would be leaking in to the lifter valley (not really a valley, but I don't have a better term for that area). A better leak point in that area would be the heater hoses.
 
yes.
That could be a possible symptom of a blown head gasket. There is no coolant on that side of the block(passenger) in that area that can leak out. There is no water jacket on the side of the block in that area. If the head gasket was leaking coolant on the passenger side it would be leaking in to the lifter valley (not really a valley, but I don't have a better term for that area). A better leak point in that area would be the heater hoses.

All good info to know.

Thank you.

Next step I suppose is to pull the head and check it all out.
 
OK...

Update:

I go up this morning and checked the pushrod... slightly bent. I then reset it and turned the crank slowly and everything worked normally at ratchet speed

I then pulled the head an took pics and videos.

Due to the pushrod being toally stopped up with grime, as is the entire engine, the block is coming out for cleaning.

On a positive note, the pistons look good (to my untrained eye) and the cylinders are smooth as glass with barely any - if at all - ridge a the top.

I have consolidated all pictures for this project into a public album.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9EF666F89D644D14!3974&authkey=!AD8YwFVwFgu-LVM&ithint=folder%2cjpg

Thank you all again for the continued help and expert advice.

Rick
 
Head is off and on the work bench. No visible cracks, but confirmed the dreaded stock 0331 head. I'm not really interested in cleaning this filthy head, but am interested in seeing the crack if anyone can describe or provide a picture of the spot where the cracks typically are, I would appreciate it.

In the meantime, I will be pulling the rest of the block, and getting it pulled down for cleaning.

Any pointers on a Bearing / Ring / gasket kit?
How about additional sources for rebuilt heads?

Thank you again.

Rick
 
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