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New (to me) 2001 Cherokee Sport

98Redbird

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Illinois
Hi, I recently picked up a 2001 Cherokee Sport after a bunch of time searching. It's black and has 72,000 miles on it. It seems to run well for being 13 years old, but the suspension and steering does seem a bit "lose" if you will.

I'm just wondering at 72,000 miles what parts of the engine/driveline/steering/suspension should I perform mainenance on outside of normal oil changes?

I plan on changing plugs. No wires obviously, but is it worth it to do the coil pack assembly at the same time as the plugs?

Fuel filter is in the tank, so I doubt that's necessary to change at this time.

Trans fluid? Differential? Transfer case? What fluids are recommended for trans/diff/Transfer case?

Would it be worth picking up a Haynes manual? I've seen the accuracy questioned at times.

We will be using it driving across country during the spring storm chasing, so I would like to be very "preventative" in what I'm replacing and servicing as opposed to finding out 600 miles from home that I should have replaced something that was working alright, but failed due to age. I know that's pretty broad and general but I suppose what I'm asking is what parts are most likely to fail based of age? Battery I will be replacing, along with maybe alternator and starter, just common stuff that's old now.

Thanks for the knowledge, first Jeep, so I know nothing about them, sure are fun to drive though.
 
Preventative maintenance is everything with Jeeps. I would change all the fluids.

Oil: A good 10w30 conventional is my favorite choice
Transmission: Dex/Merc III compatible fluid ONLY - I like Autozone Dex/Merc
Transfer Case: I use the same as the Transmission, but ATF will work too
Front and rear differentials: 75w90 in both, 75w140 in the rear if you tow. Add in the friction modifier if you have a limited slip

Coolant: Green coolant, might be worth doing a flush
Brake Fluid: DOT 3, I believe. I use Valvoline Synthetic

Powersteering fluid: I usually suck out the reservoir with a turkey baster and cycle the fluid a couple times until it comes out clean.


The Haynes isn't the greatest, but it is also better than nothing. Personally, I bought a factory service manual off ebay and it is worth its weight in gold. I highly recommend getting one of those.

I use NGK ZFR5N copper plugs in my 2000, and you don't need to change the coil rail. It isn't a wear item.
 
#1 Research 0331 cracked head syndrome and be on lookout for that. Using coolant. Mayonnaise on the oil fill cap.

#2 Change all fluids including brake fluid, power steering fluid, differentials, transfer case, transmission, coolant, engine oil.

I'm pretty sure there is a fuel filter underneath on the frame. Almost all vehicles have one.

That will keep you busy for a while.

Get the FSM. (factory service manual.)
 
x2 on the above. Don't worry about the coil pack until you have problems with it. They rarely go bad.

As far as suspension, I would check your track bar and control arm/sway bar bushings.
 
I have an 01 XJ w/ 324,000 and the advise so far is spot on. Change all the fluids, and keep changing them regularly. Brake fluid/coolant/thermostat every 2 years. I change the trans fluid every 15K-20K and the differential fluids every 30K. The Jeep does not use any special ATF - you can buy it at Big R/ Tractor Supply/ Rural King for $10-11/gallon. I would also change, or keep an extra, crank position sensor and throttle position sensor. Change the thermostat. I find dealer crank position sensors, throttle position sensors, and thermostats to be "cheap insurance" against getting stuck. If you notice your coolant level dropping over time, investigate!! If you ignore, or keep adding, you keep be ruining the bottom end of the engine. The suspension does wear over time. If its all original, it might be time for an overhaul. Shocks, rear leaf springs, and ball joints in the front are the most common items. If you go deeper you can get into front control arm bushings and some other stuff. From 1997 and up, the fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pump assembly. If it starts quickly fine and runs good, leave it alone. If you have problems, you have to drop the tank and at that point its advised to replace a new fuel pump assembly use Bosch or dealer (try Amazon/Rock Auto for best price).
 
BTW, I thought I would give you the best advice I ever got shortly after I got my XJ. Go ahead and get a new crankshaft position sensor, replace the known good one, and stick the known good one in the glove box. Keep the tools necessary to change it under the back seat.

That is the one sensor likely to leave you stuck. Crank with no start is almost always crankshaft position sensor. This advice has saved me several times. When mine have gone out, it is like you stop at a convenience store, get back in the Jeep and no start.
 
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