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Starting Jeep after 2 years standing

Tryfan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
So I am just about to start my engine after 2 years standing. I have read a lot of threads saying to squirt some magic marvel oil, engine oil or WD40 into spark plug holes then let it soak before hand cranking with a wrench. I am concerned this will harm the catalytic converter. Then a suggestion to prime the oil pump but I have a distributor less coil system (2001XJ) so I don't think I can do that. Also suggestion to drain gasoline and replace with new before starting it.
Any comments on the above or any other suggestions greatly appreciated!
 
A few months ago I helped a neighbor get his old Ford Thunderbird running after it sat for six years. All we did was change the battery and the gasoline to make it start, then cycled the fluids and fixed whatever had broken over time (vacuum hoses, stuff like that).

Your gasoline has long since turned to varnish so you definitely need to drain the tank first--if you try to start with that crap in the tank you'll get the junk in your whole fuel system. Check for rust on the end of the siphon hose, if you have some you will probably want to drop the tank and either clean it out thoroughly or replace it altogether (neighbor had to replace his), and probably service the fuel pump sock and maybe the inline filter before you do much else.

If you want to lubricate the rings, put some real motor oil in the plug holes. I wouldn't worry about damaging the cat with just a teaspoon or so of motor oil, which is all you really need.

IAC might be sticky after sitting for a while.
 
I would change the gas, and pull the distributor and cycle the oil pump for a few minutes. Maybe rotate the crank a few times manually. Don't do rotate the crank with the distributor pulled. I did, everything went to shit.
 
As stated above there is no distributor. Check the oil, maybe change it. Get some good gas in it and charge the battery then fire it up and fix whatever else.
 
Something I recommend is disconnecting the fuel rail fuel line and running some new fuel through the lines, Turn the key to run a few times so the prime pumps some fuel out of the lines.. Going to be tough to get the fuel out of the fuel rail though. Fuel can get kind of lumpy, any of those lumps make it to your injectors are likely to cause issues. When I say lumps I mean if the fuel turns, it kind if gets like jello.

After letting my Renix sit for a few years, I purged the fuel lines and looked at what came out, it looked nasty. On a hunch I disconnected the fuel filter and blew air through the fuel lines, I was amazed at the amount of crap that came out of here, bits of metal, rust, lumps of Jello.
 
It doesn't matter if there isn't a distributor. The cam position sensor sits in the same spot as the distributor and mounts the same way. There is just a process to reinstalling it.
 
Correct, however previous comments recommended removing the dizzy and I was simply restating the OP's posted information. I have started stuff from cars to tractors that have sat for several years and unless it has been decades do not bother with priming the system, may turn it over via the balancer to confirm it is free but other than that...
 
Unless the motor was exposed to the elements I just think getting some fresh fuel into it is probably more important.

Pull the fuel filter (before you do anything else) and hook up a drain hose to a catch can (this will need to take all the gas you have in the tank, so may require 1-2 gas cans or more) you can jumper the fuel pump with a jumper line to the ballast resistor (IIRC I think yours still has one?, if not you can find the relay and put the jumper there) Pump as much gas out as you can, I'm a little leery of letting a FP run flat out for long periods like that, so usually I will run it, 5 mins on, 5 mins off. Usually it has to overcome some back pressure so it won't be pumping the same volume during normal operation.

After this, put some fresh gas in the tank 1-2gal and pump that through also. Put in a fresh fuel filter and close it up. Go up to the front of the jeep and using a vacuum pump you can trigger the pressure regulator to allow fresh gas to flow up into the fuel rail. Again, this requires jumpering the FP, and attaching a vacuum pump to the reg.

After this, crank it. If you're worried about lack of lubrication in the cylinders, disconnect the CPS line and you can crank away without it starting. I wouldn't do too much of this so you don't flood it. Maybe a solid minute of cranking. Then reconnect CPS, and see if she starts.

I'll be honest, this is the overly cautious approach, on more than one occasion I've simply started up a vehicle that's been sitting for over a year and it's started up just fine. You could tell it wasn't happy about the fuel situation, usually adding fresh fuel immediately is a requirement, otherwise the vehicle will be really pissed at you.

I don't know about on a 2001, but on older vehicles you can add some acetone to the gas and that will help dehydrate any water build up, and put all of the gels back into solution. rocking the car back and forth usually helps this. Using high grade anhydrous or 95% acetone is necessary.

The biggest headache with leaving vehicles sitting these days is the ethanol blended gasoline (EBG) which is corrosive to older vehicles (with aluminum and brass carb parts) and for modern vehicles it is hygroscopic, so it forms an azeotrope with water and allows it to mix with the gas which can be rough on mild steel components.

Last time I had to drop the tank on my renix, there was some rust in there, so I dropped in a hank of chain and rolled it around the back yard for a while with some soapy water in it. I then washed it out with water, followed by acetone and then used a hair dryer with a long cardboard tube attached to drive the water/acetone out and then applied some RedKote. I've been using this stuff on all of my old steel gas cans to keep the alcohol from attacking the steel and been really happy with it.
 
Mine sat for 3 years without running did no prep and have no issues, just put in some fresh gas
 
Unless the motor was exposed to the elements I just think getting some fresh fuel into it is probably more important.

Pull the fuel filter (before you do anything else) and hook up a drain hose to a catch can (this will need to take all the gas you have in the tank, so may require 1-2 gas cans or more) you can jumper the fuel pump with a jumper line to the ballast resistor (IIRC I think yours still has one?, if not you can find the relay and put the jumper there) Pump as much gas out as you can, I'm a little leery of letting a FP run flat out for long periods like that, so usually I will run it, 5 mins on, 5 mins off. Usually it has to overcome some back pressure so it won't be pumping the same volume during normal operation.

After this, put some fresh gas in the tank 1-2gal and pump that through also. Put in a fresh fuel filter and close it up. Go up to the front of the jeep and using a vacuum pump you can trigger the pressure regulator to allow fresh gas to flow up into the fuel rail. Again, this requires jumpering the FP, and attaching a vacuum pump to the reg.

After this, crank it. If you're worried about lack of lubrication in the cylinders, disconnect the CPS line and you can crank away without it starting. I wouldn't do too much of this so you don't flood it. Maybe a solid minute of cranking. Then reconnect CPS, and see if she starts.

I'll be honest, this is the overly cautious approach, on more than one occasion I've simply started up a vehicle that's been sitting for over a year and it's started up just fine. You could tell it wasn't happy about the fuel situation, usually adding fresh fuel immediately is a requirement, otherwise the vehicle will be really pissed at you.

I don't know about on a 2001, but on older vehicles you can add some acetone to the gas and that will help dehydrate any water build up, and put all of the gels back into solution. rocking the car back and forth usually helps this. Using high grade anhydrous or 95% acetone is necessary.

The biggest headache with leaving vehicles sitting these days is the ethanol blended gasoline (EBG) which is corrosive to older vehicles (with aluminum and brass carb parts) and for modern vehicles it is hygroscopic, so it forms an azeotrope with water and allows it to mix with the gas which can be rough on mild steel components.

Last time I had to drop the tank on my renix, there was some rust in there, so I dropped in a hank of chain and rolled it around the back yard for a while with some soapy water in it. I then washed it out with water, followed by acetone and then used a hair dryer with a long cardboard tube attached to drive the water/acetone out and then applied some RedKote. I've been using this stuff on all of my old steel gas cans to keep the alcohol from attacking the steel and been really happy with it.

Haha I like your clean out method. Cheap and effective...
 
Thanks for all the comments so it sounds like I should definitely siphon out my old gas and replace with new. Can I siphon it out of the filler tube? The tank is plastic so do you think there will be much rust?
So can I prime the pump by removing the CPS?
 
I wouldn't go down the filler neck unless you have some kind of pump to do it, siphon doesn't really work all that well.

I would suggest pulling the fuel filter and attaching some hose like I posted, as this way you're using the fuel pump which is going to be a much better way of pumping it out.
 
Haha I like your clean out method. Cheap and effective...

I've done this a few times to pump all the gas out of wrecked cars. In those cases, I don't care about the lines, so I'll just cut them with EMT shears. and I'll energize the fuel pump using a small gel-cell and some vampire clips.
 
I would suggest pulling the fuel filter and attaching some hose like I posted, as this way you're using the fuel pump which is going to be a much better way of pumping it out.
The fuel filter is in the tank. There isn't one he can pull a hose off of and let the pump run.
 
So would I be best to siphon the gas through the filler hose or will I have to drop the plastic tank - something I would like to avoid if possible. Also should I try and blow out the fuel lines?
 
You need to get the old gas out especially if you had any ethanol blend

How much do you have in the tank? If its 1/4 tank or less you might be able to mix it out with a couple of gallons of high-detergent high-octane gas (Shell or BP/Amoco) and pump it out through the rail, then refill with good gas and some Lucas fuel system cleaner. If its 1/2 tank or so I would siphon or drop the tank.

Good that its a plastic tank so you should not have any significant rust issues. But inert gas can cause some long-term problems and if you had any Ethanol that turned to gel you will clog up your whole system.
 
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