Why all the Rusty's hate?

I am sure this has been answered but a lot of what I have read seems to be 5+ years old and I am not sure if things have changed. Seems to be a LOT of people that hate anything made by Rusty's (and a lot of people that love it for that matter) and I am wondering if I made a mistake. I ordered the XJ 3" Advanced kit which includes:

• Front 3" coil springs
• Rear 3" Leaf Springs
• Front Hydro performance shocks
• Rear Hydro performance shocks
• Fixed upper control arms
• Fixed lower control arms
• Adjustable front track bar
• Extended length stainless steel brake hoses
• Grade 8 U-Bolts

From what I can tell a lot of the negativity surrounds the control arm bushings, what I cannot wrap my head around is that I am looking at my stock bushings that are 15 years old and have 165,000 miles on them and are still probably fine, isn't this same as what I am getting with the Rusty's kit?

Also seems to be a lot of issues discussed with the tie rod end on the track bar, I am not opposed to getting another if there are going to be issues with this one, but I am wondering if a lot of what I am reading comes from hard core off road guys when I am just going to DD mine so not sure if I should worry?

I guess my main question is what should I be doing as far as maintenance (if anything) on my end after installation to prevent any issues with this kit. Thanks in advance.

As far as track bar goes, Rusty's, RC and other cheaper options are toothpicks and can break from normal street driving. A double shear setup at the frame side is much better.

Johnnie Walker said:

As far as track bar goes, Rusty's, RC and other cheaper options are toothpicks and can break from normal street driving. A double shear setup at the frame side is much better.

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This is exactly what I dont understand. The rusty's track bar seems heavier duty than the stock one, if the stock went 165,000 without issue why would rusty's all of a sudden break under similar driving conditions?

I am just trying to understand...

If your going to upgrade, you should definitely go with a double shear track bar/bracket. This goes for anyone, not simply because it's rusty's. Not only substantially weaker than a double shear connection, the single shear design is prone to bind, which over time can severely weaken the TRE leading to failure. While it's more than likely not going to happen to most people, you have to ask yourself what's the point if your looking to upgrade?

I get it, there are better ones out there but is the rusty's one really going to fail under the same conditions that the stock one lasted 15 years under?

I dont mind spending another $200 if its really necessary but I just dont understand why it is? If I am staring at a track bar that came with the kit and appears heavier than the stock what is the reason to not use it?

pbiancardi said:

I get it, there are better ones out there but is the rusty's one really going to fail under the same conditions that the stock one lasted 15 years under?

I dont mind spending another $200 if its really necessary but I just dont understand why it is? If I am staring at a track bar that came with the kit and appears heavier than the stock what is the reason to not use it?

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Yes

Just because it appears heavier doesn't mean it's built to the same quality standards as the oem bar

So the OEM is stronger / better than rusty's??

If your so convinced its 'beef', run it. Maybe darwin will make an apearance. We shouldnt have to argue with you to get you the better product.

xcm said:

If your so convinced its 'beef', run it. Maybe darwin will make an apearance. We shouldnt have to argue with you to get you the better product.

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I am just trying to understand and no one seems willing to explain?

IslanderOffRoad said:

Yes

Just because it appears heavier doesn't mean it's built to the same quality standards as the oem bar

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answered

md21722 said:

answered

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So in the absence of anything else right now I should keep the OEM on there? Lift is almost in...

With the stock track bar and a lift your front axle will be pulled to the left. The adjustable track bar allows the axle to be centered. At 3" lift it will probably be 3/4" different side to side meaning 3/8" adjustment is needed. You can drive with the stock track bar, but it's not right. Double shear is the preferred track bar design today. JKS and others were some of the originals and don't use the double shear design but are probably fine too. You just don't want that thing coming apart or brewing when you're on the highway. With a lift ,don't forget about your bump stops. You can destroy your springs and break your shocks if you aren't careful.

pbiancardi said:

So the OEM is stronger / better than rusty's??

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It depends. An OEM part lasted 165,000 miles on an XJ with no lift and it probably was used too hard. Typically once you start adding lift kits, tires, etc., the vehicle is subjected to much more stress and strain than what the OEM engineered into the part.

Typically the issues with Rusty's (and Rough Country) seem to revolve around issues the their track bars and steering parts.

Whether parts last or not will be subject to how you build your XJ and what you plan to do with it. Keep those things in mind when planning your build.

I think your list looks fine. I went with JKS track bar (not a double shear) and that is the only part I would change on your list.

Yes it had an existing lift with axle pulled to the left with stock bar that is why I am questioning the advice that stock is better than rusty's....

Definitely get a new track bar. You will be happier in the end and it solves the issues you have been having with stock one.

pbiancardi said:

I am questioning the advice that stock is better than rusty's....

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Your not reading what we are saying, none of us are saying the stock is better and you should use it, we are saying the single shear track bar sucks and you should upgrade to a double shear for peace of mind and reliability

The issue with Rusty's track bars is the rod end they use, not the beefy DOM. They have had multiple iterations each time beefing the size up of the threaded joint. They like to shear right at the jam nut, especially when using say a 4.5 lift track bar on a 6.5 lift because you thread much more out. I personally saw it break on my buddies jeep while wheeling. After that happened I fabed mine to use a ruff stuff heim.

pbiancardi said:

Yes it had an existing lift with axle pulled to the left with stock bar that is why I am questioning the advice that stock is better than rusty's....

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Cut the funny buisness troll, nobody said a stock bar was better than a rustys bar for use on a lifted vehicle application.

whitexj98 said:

The issue with Rusty's track bars is the rod end they use, not the beefy DOM. They have had multiple iterations each time beefing the size up of the threaded joint. They like to shear right at the jam nut, especially when using say a 4.5 lift track bar on a 6.5 lift because you thread much more out. I personally saw it break on my buddies jeep while wheeling. After that happened I fabed mine to use a ruff stuff heim.

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That makes sense.

For now I am going to put the rusty's in with the kit and keep an eye on it and be ready to upgrade. Anything I can do as far as routine maintenance on the bar or other lift parts to lessen the chance of issues?

pbiancardi said:

Anything I can do as far as routine maintenance on the bar or other lift parts to lessen the chance of issues?

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Primary maintenance, and investigate any new sounds.