Blower Switch Connector Help

So long story short, the resistors in my blower switch got hot and melted stuff. The area around the high setting terminal is black and actually got so hot that it melted the little plastic housing on the connector. I got a new switch ordered and I think I can save the factory terminals (pop them out, clean them, put them into a new pigtail housing) the only problem is I can't find a new pigtail to save my life, all the parts store pigtails for a '96 XJ have 4 terminals instead of 5. Can I make these work with a 5 terminal switch? If not does anybody know where I could get a 5 terminal pigtail or am I gonna have to hit up the salvage yards?

Never mind guys, I answered my own question. It seems that although the blower switch has 5 terminals (and the factory connector has slots for all of them), there's only 4 wires and terminals. Wuh? ,: | Doesn't make sense to me, but I ordered a new pigtail since the resistors also cooked a couple inches worth of insulation on what I originally thought was a black wire... looked closer and it turned out to be my green "high" setting wire lol.

Okay, so I screwed up. AGAIN. Seems that the parts store connector I got is actually for the blower motor resistors, not the blower switch. Went down to the salvage yard today and the only '95 XJ they had on the yard ALSO had a melted connector. I grabbed a connector from an '89 that wasn't melted and looked like it should work. Only problem is, the wires are different colors and in the wrong places, but no biggie, I can pop them out and put them in the right places. Now though I'm wondering how the factory wires go into the connector. Near as I can figure, it's like this-

Blower switch installed and viewed from rear-

Right side (from top to bottom)
| Yellow/brown
| Blue
| Tan

Left side (from top to bottom)
| Not used
| Green

Is this correct? Also, does anybody know the resistance values on the resistors? It seems like the blower only works worth a d*** on the high setting.

When blower only works on high, it usually means that the thermal fuse is blown. The fuse is the diode looking component wired across two of the terminals in the resistor block.. Resistance across the fuse should be 0 ohms (not just low but 0). The fuse used to cost ~ $2 at Radio Shack (if you have soldering skills) or you can replace the entire resistor block for not too much more.

Sat down with my DVOM last night and checked the continuity of the switch in all positions and got it figured out. When I installed it and still only had high, I figured "bad resistors." Started looking at my wiring diagram and noticed the symbol for a switch in the resistor pack and a little light bulb went off on in my head lol. Got a new resistor pack from the parts store today, put it in, and it's working great. As a side question, what's the point of this thermal fuse? It seems to me that the system would work just fine without it, but it's gotta be there for a reason...