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What is Limiting my Lift on Left Rear???

R

RAVC1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
I have Bilstein 5100's, HD Crown leafs and JKS boomerang shackles. The left/driver's side is a little lower than the passenger side. This may result in a lift height lower then the 2.5" ideal for the 5100's. Why is the height different from Lt/Rt?

I suspect the degree shims are the reason because, they rotate the shock pin on the C8.25 down away from the undercarriage.

The only thing I can think of doing is exchange the 5100's from right to left and see if the ride height difference remains.
 
Degree shims were installed to elevate the pinion gear for my double Cardan joint main drive shaft. Yes, the boomerang shackles are longer than stock - they add 1" of lift so, this also causes the pinion gear to point upward.

I torqued everything after the weight was on the suspension as is required. I am working on the under carriage now so, removing the shocks and moving them from R/L and L/R will be easy.
 
what sits lower than what? is the rig sitting lower on the left side? you could be missing a leaf, you could be missing a spacer in the front, or you could simply have a worn leaf. how old are the springs?

degree shims will rotate the housing, which will effect the position of the shock mounts slightly, but for a 2.5" lift you really shouldn't need them, or they are such a small shim that it won't make any noticeable difference.

pictures of your issues would help.
 
At 2.5" I don't think the shocks will matter. The brake line shouldn't matter either unless you have some super short one on there.

My Jeep had a 2-2.5" lift (20" from center of center cap to fender flare) with a 10.5 degree pinion angle (from extended shackles) and it was fine. It did have the factory upcountry package including shocks.

Typically once you go over 3" you start buying extended length shocks, relocating your shock brackets, or both.

You could take the shocks off and see what happens. Then check everything else and make nothing is binding up or seizing. It could be that you got two different springs from a mixed up shipment?
 
Last edited:
Weird mine is lower 1" on the pass rear, 1/2" on pass front. Didn't used to be like that , but after 9 years on these leafs, I'm pretty sure engine torque which makes it squat to the pass rear, is to blame. I've heard of jeep speed guys on Deavers have them build with one extra leaf on the pass side to accommodate this
 
Swap coils/leafs from side to side.
 
I have 5.5" packs and the pass rear was so bad I had to add a 3.5" AAL to the thing and the pass side rear still sits about 1" lower than the Driver side rear. Pass side was of by 3/4" so I threw a second isolator to level it out. I too think it is the engine torque making it squat, especially with the 5.13s and the 14 bolt being so heavy its probably putting more of a beating on things than the old 9" that was under there.

If your pass side stays low after verifying the shocks are not the culprit, then consider slapping a leaf in there. Old CJ guys used to do this all the time. My old CJ had 2 extra leaves on the pass side years ago when I had first got it. New leaves usually fix it, but why do that when you can just slap another leaf or two in there?
 
Some recent progress...

...the 1997 C8.25 was suspended by the 5100's alone while I was performing the installation of the Synergy Mfg. 8240 leaf spring mounting brackets and it is clear the driver's side (left) of the axle is noticeably closer to the undercarriage than the passenger side. Bilstein still wants me to disconnect the 5100's and let them hang free and measure them in this state. However, I suspect I found my answer.
 
RAVC1 said:
Some recent progress...

...the 1997 C8.25 was suspended by the 5100's alone while I was performing the installation of the Synergy Mfg. 8240 leaf spring mounting brackets and it is clear the driver's side (left) of the axle is noticeably closer to the undercarriage than the passenger side. Bilstein still wants me to disconnect the 5100's and let them hang free and measure them in this state. However, I suspect I found my answer.
Click to expand...

If i'm reading this correctly, I have the exact same issue. I've torn apart the rear end a few times recently (new bushings, shackles, relocation brackets, pinion shims, etc etc). I noticed every time that I free hung the axle by nothing but the shocks, the drivers side was easily 1" higher than the passenger side. I never measured the shocks when disconnected. I didnt install the 5100's the PO did, so I dont know their history, and just assumed they were at the end of their life. - Probably going to OME. I know this doesn't help, but at least your not the only one, and I'm following this thread to see if you end up with any resolution.
 
huh...have to check back on this.....

I always figured it was cuz my 300+ lbs butt is on the drivers side....and over time, I killed the springs.
 
RAVC1 said:
The 5100's are a lifetime warranty shock but, they are no match for OME.
Click to expand...

The catch with their warranty is that you have to return them to the dealer you purchased them from, along with original receipt. Since the PO bought mine, I have no receipt let alone knowledge of where they were purchased from. So for me, their warranty is almost worthless, which stinks, cause their still a great set of shocks. oh well.
 
You can send the Bilsteins to them for a rebuild...done it many times for various race cars
 
SuperB60ce said:
You can send the Bilsteins to them for a rebuild...done it many times for various race cars
Click to expand...

Quick search shows their rebuild price at $95 a shock. I think that is actually more expensive than buying a new shock. Might be worth while in the racing industry where the shocks are probably 4x more expensive?
 
Euology101 said:
Quick search shows their rebuild price at $95 a shock. I think that is actually more expensive than buying a new shock. Might be worth while in the racing industry where the shocks are probably 4x more expensive?
Click to expand...

true...but if you had a specific valving requirement, that is the way to go
 
When you disconnected the shocks, what happens?

I very much doubt your shocks are THAT SHORT to limit down travel. If you 'ruined' your shocks by hanging an axle off em, youd have very differant issues...

Id guess your shocks are fine, and one of your leaf springs has aged differantly than the other (big surprise when dealing with crown!)
 
This sounds to me like its the rotation of the axle bringing one shock mount further down than the other, thus hanging one side up 1" higher. No way to combat this unless your shocks are mounted in the same position on both sides of the axle ex; shock mounts welded to your u-bolt plates and run up through the floor.
Might be mistaken here but the geometry in my head makes sense to me. I know that I bottom out on one side quicker than on the other side with my shocks being used as bumpstops...

Oh, and typical shocks have nothing to do with your lift.
 
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