New to me 89xj

I just picked up an 89xj for $350 it's complete, straight and runs. It needs a valve gasket and misc vent hoses. I guess my main question is what else should I look for that might be a renix issue?

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1072534

This above link will get you a bit into it by our highly considerate, and helpful resident experts, i.e., how to refresh grounds, (really important), and about why you should absolutely consider a better headlight/harness modification, etc., etc., etc. Consider paying the small amount to keep up, and going too.

How about revealing more particulars, i.e., auto, or manual transmission, (and type of the latter), lifted, or no lift.., six cylinder is probably simply assumed by us readers.

Get an after-market manual such as the mediocre Haynes, etc., and better still a FSM, or Factory Service Manual for your year--try ebay.

You will need both a digital, and analog multi-meter to make most all RENIX checks, as the diagnostics are different in that it has a French Computer, (ECU), and requires a different official tool, lol, in order to read the data. (it translates French into ENglish.., just kidding).

You might be wise to check all fluids.

1) Try flushing the entire engine/heater anti-freeze mix completely out of the vehicle, and replace with distilled water, and fresh anti-freeze.
2) battery,
3) oil, (and replace oil filter),
4) differentials,
5) transmission,
6) and be sure to grease all grease zerts. While you are around your u-joint zerts, wiggle the shafts for tightness between them, and the joints.

Replace air filter.

Check to make sure your 02 wire is not connecting the exhaust section.

Depending on the mileage, (which would be a bit revealing), your vehicle may, or may not ever had the dreaded "Death Wobble", which may require some front end replacement parts. Try to see if there is any movement between the various front end components with a pry bar, etc.

Consider an alignment of the front end.

You might consider to check all brake linings.

Consider new cap, and rotor, wires, and spark plugs.

Depending how old your shocks are...

If your windshield is old, i.e., micro-pitted, scratches, cracks, etc., consider a replacement.., makes all the difference in the world to have the best forward view under harsh visual conditions, day, or night, rain/snow, or shine.

Replace wind shield wipers for the winter season.

Consider the best tires you can for the winter season in your area.

Renix is old, and for the price you paid for yours, you are ahead of the game as per your indication of it's good condition. Checking, cleaning, replacing the stuff above will go a long way to provide you a safe fun journey.

Oh.., and be sure to often check your fuel rail area for fuel wetness to insure that you are not leaking fuel onto the intake/exhaust manifolds.., a major fire issue problematic with old O-Rings. My '89 has not exhibited such, but I keep my eye on it, as I check my oil level religiously every day before I go anywhere, as well as tug on pulleys, glancing about for radiator leaks, and leaks around about the coolant bottle insuring it has coolant at the proper level, AND never over tighten bottle cap.., just 'snug' it.

Sheesh.., by the time you get done will all of the above it will practically be brand new:cheers:

It's a bone stock 89 xj limited with the inline six,automatic transmission, select trac transfer case and 180,000 miles on it. I started going over the engine compartment and noticed the coolant bottle had 2 cracks on the inlet that had been sleeved before, I took and epoxied it hope it holds. I also degreased the top side in the engine compartment ended getting water in the crankcase (bad valve cover gasket) and yes I checked the oil before it was started the first time no mocha color oil.

Yeah.., I'd look for a coolant bottle replacement, or two from your local junk yard. New coolant bottles are notoriously faulty being made in care-less china. They seem to balloon, and crack. There is a controversy regards the closed system versus modifying back to the more traditional open system. It can be a costly mod, but it is an idea with good merits. Others maintain that maintaining the closed system well.., all will be well even though it has quirks. Had to replace radiator at 190,000, or so.

When I got my '89, with about the same miles as yours, the circulating coolant looked ok in the bottle.., but when I dropped the coolant system fluid out of the lower radiator hose, there was a tremendous amount of brown rusty fluid, and bits of crap that came out. I did not flush the proper way by removing an engine plug, just pulled off the hoses, since I was replacing them anyway, and was under a time constraint. Still, I was able to get the system much cleaner. Replacement of coolant is often recommended every two years, and a good flush is a good idea too.

With that said, replace your radiator hoses if they look old. The lower hose should have a coiled wire inside the rubber tube.., if not.., get one!

See that brass sender unit on the back of the engine? Remove wire connection, unscrew it when you purge your coolant system, and when you refill with distilled water/anti-freeze mix. Seems the proper way in which to refill fresh coolant mix is to park down hill, engine down, rear up, when refilling. With that sender out it will greatly help to purge out air bubble pockets. It can be messy, but oh well. After filling as much as would drain down into the system with the engine off, I then ran my engine which moved the air to that sender port, discharging air, and as well as spurts of coolant fluid, while continuously adding fluid to the bottle, lol. We don't have a radiator cap in which to do the easier, less messy, and more traditional method.

Hope is hope. I'd get another bottle, and save the repaired one you have just in case, if you have shelf space for it, lol.

Oil floats on water, so if you have a small amount of water remaining way down there your dip stick probably won't show it, as the separation is fairly quick. With a flash light, you might look down in through your valve cover cap hole, and see if you have some 'mocha' colored oil sludge around there when your engine is dead cold. If you haven't already, drop the engine oil out, and any water will mostly be evacuated . I have found that the latest, and greatest synthetic oils tend to get past the old tired crankshaft seals, front, and back which I discovered rather quickly when I first changed the oil in my new to me Renix XJ. I quickly replaced that stuff using the most regular 10w30 with the addition of some NAPA seal conditioners, and STP, or some such, and the drips went away. Lucky me. However I did replace the front seal. I no longer use conditioners, or STP now as they did the trick for the rear seal. Flip a coin on that, but when the seals go bad it is a mechanical issue in which they must be replaced. Again, with 180,000 miles on your engine, give a considerable amount of attention to your rather unknown XJ's conditions. The oil, and coolant situation is just but one priority that is a must do in order to have a good base line.

Best wishes, and have fun.., most of us seem to.., with our Renix XJ's, lol.

nice buy my dad just bought a 90 limited for 700 89k mileage.. straight and clean, had the 242 t/c was wondering the same stuff what to look for or fix

randomguy310 said:

nice buy my dad just bought a 90 limited for 700 89k mileage.. straight and clean, had the 242 t/c was wondering the same stuff what to look for or fix

Click to expand...

Yes.

Here's an updated link for ya. Printable also.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d205LaED2SUxMOGZnY3RjaEE/edit?pli=1

Thanks for all the great information. Got the valve gasket done and pulled the vacuum and vent lines that need to be replaced, yes I have them marked. Is it common for the air filter to have oil on it?

another good tip, check the torque converter to flexplate bolts...they're almost always loose by now.
oily air filter is pretty common. either the ccv hoses get all gummed up and can't breathe, forcing oil through the front hose into the air filter, or the breather vents inside the vc are sucking up oil off the top of the head.
a good fix that helps a lot is to chop down the breather extensions inside the valve cover so they don't suck oil. there's several good write-ups around detailing that procedure.

910cherokee said:

Thanks for all the great information. Got the valve gasket done and pulled the vacuum and vent lines that need to be replaced, yes I have them marked. Is it common for the air filter to have oil on it?

Click to expand...

All your vacuum lines need to be in good shape, including the metered orifice at the back of the valve cover.

Read post 25 of my Tips.

Alaskan89XJ said:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1072534

This above link will get you a bit into it by our highly considerate, and helpful resident experts, i.e., how to refresh grounds, (really important), and about why you should absolutely consider a better headlight/harness modification, etc., etc., etc. Consider paying the small amount to keep up, and going too.

How about revealing more particulars, i.e., auto, or manual transmission, (and type of the latter), lifted, or no lift.., six cylinder is probably simply assumed by us readers.

Get an after-market manual such as the mediocre Haynes, etc., and better still a FSM, or Factory Service Manual for your year--try ebay.

You will need both a digital, and analog multi-meter to make most all RENIX checks, as the diagnostics are different in that it has a French Computer, (ECU), and requires a different official tool, lol, in order to read the data. (it translates French into ENglish.., just kidding).

You might be wise to check all fluids.

1) Try flushing the entire engine/heater anti-freeze mix completely out of the vehicle, and replace with distilled water, and fresh anti-freeze.
2) battery,
3) oil, (and replace oil filter),
4) differentials,
5) transmission,
6) and be sure to grease all grease zerts. While you are around your u-joint zerts, wiggle the shafts for tightness between them, and the joints.

Replace air filter.

Check to make sure your 02 wire is not connecting the exhaust section.

Depending on the mileage, (which would be a bit revealing), your vehicle may, or may not ever had the dreaded "Death Wobble", which may require some front end replacement parts. Try to see if there is any movement between the various front end components with a pry bar, etc.

Consider an alignment of the front end.

You might consider to check all brake linings.

Consider new cap, and rotor, wires, and spark plugs.

Depending how old your shocks are...

If your windshield is old, i.e., micro-pitted, scratches, cracks, etc., consider a replacement.., makes all the difference in the world to have the best forward view under harsh visual conditions, day, or night, rain/snow, or shine.

Replace wind shield wipers for the winter season.

Consider the best tires you can for the winter season in your area.

Renix is old, and for the price you paid for yours, you are ahead of the game as per your indication of it's good condition. Checking, cleaning, replacing the stuff above will go a long way to provide you a safe fun journey.

Oh.., and be sure to often check your fuel rail area for fuel wetness to insure that you are not leaking fuel onto the intake/exhaust manifolds.., a major fire issue problematic with old O-Rings. My '89 has not exhibited such, but I keep my eye on it, as I check my oil level religiously every day before I go anywhere, as well as tug on pulleys, glancing about for radiator leaks, and leaks around about the coolant bottle insuring it has coolant at the proper level, AND never over tighten bottle cap.., just 'snug' it.

Sheesh.., by the time you get done will all of the above it will practically be brand new:cheers:

Click to expand...

That has got to one of the top 5 answers to a post I have ever seen! That is one reason I'm a member. Thank you Sir!

Greets again to the new'er RENIX XJ guys; IF you choose to bypass Cruiser54's "TIPS", well then.., good freak'in luck!!!!

Cruiser 54: Really great that you have cleaned up your 'Mostly Renix tips' collection into a LINK: (https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1), to some form of pdf.., but since some of us are nearly off grid, and with dreadfully slow dial-up only connections.., I for one can ONLY GET 3 PAGES of your hard work, (tried 3 different times of a 24 hour period of time). Hence I refer to one of my bookmarked Jeep/Cherokee sites, (where I sometimes go to), and find I can peruse your 'tips', better there.., albeit way more confusing over your latest, and greatest 'cleaned-up' contribution to all of us out there trying to keep our XJ's tip-top, and safer for fun too.

BOOKMARKED: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/ (this will take you to page 1, of 2).

I have settled on mostly always, but do not like the search box as it hardly ever works for me, i.e., as an arbitrary make-believe example if I were to look up mufflers, I might get something about stereo radios. I choose to use 'google' instead, (trying various search terms), and go to wherever the leads take me.., often back to .

Me: I am by no means an expert as per the XJ, (am more comfortable with pre-eighties rigs, lol). The cool thing is that there are some most helpful long term experts here at that sacrifice a lot in order to help us with deep details of which are most valuable. I'll see a problem developing on my XJ, and ascertain whether, or not, if I can go from start to finish. I'll see a part that is needed, and get it via the web, or locally, and either do the job myself, or hand the part over to a mechanic on an appointment day saving time on how long my XJ is out of my hands.

Some of you all may have heard the saying: Late at night, if you listen very carefully, you can hear, (fill in the vehicle brand here), trucks rust. For those of us who live in salt air environments, or drive on salty type winter roads the "TIPS", are a must to consider when trying to chase down performance issues.

Another thing to you new guys, (and others), it is imperative to give feed-back to us all IF you were successful, (or not), in coming to a solution to your XJ problem based on the information from the good folks here who have scratched their heads, looked things up, peered under their hoods, or otherwise have offered their valuable time, and considerations to help out. That feed back is really important. I stress that because some get the help, and we do not hear again from them, and that leaves us all in limbo.., wondering...

I can get long winded, lol, but am indoors as the winds in my area of Alaska, have driven me inside, and I can type away a book worth of stuff. I try to keep my posts short where I can offer a solution, but on this post.., I have been given a little free room to go on, and on, and on, lol.

Over, and out.:soapbox:

Alaskan89XJ said:

Greets again to the new'er RENIX XJ guys; IF you choose to bypass Cruiser54's "TIPS", well then.., good freak'in luck!!!!

Cruiser 54: Really great that you have cleaned up your 'Mostly Renix tips' collection into a LINK: (https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1), to some form of pdf.., but since some of us are nearly off grid, and with dreadfully slow dial-up only connections.., I for one can ONLY GET 3 PAGES of your hard work, (tried 3 different times of a 24 hour period of time). Hence I refer to one of my bookmarked Jeep/Cherokee sites, (where I sometimes go to), and find I can peruse your 'tips', better there.., albeit way more confusing over your latest, and greatest 'cleaned-up' contribution to all of us out there trying to keep our XJ's tip-top, and safer for fun too.

BOOKMARKED: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/ (this will take you to page 1, of 2).

I have settled on mostly always, but do not like the search box as it hardly ever works for me, i.e., as an arbitrary make-believe example if I were to look up mufflers, I might get something about stereo radios. I choose to use 'google' instead, (trying various search terms), and go to wherever the leads take me.., often back to .

Me: I am by no means an expert as per the XJ, (am more comfortable with pre-eighties rigs, lol). The cool thing is that there are some most helpful long term experts here at that sacrifice a lot in order to help us with deep details of which are most valuable. I'll see a problem developing on my XJ, and ascertain whether, or not, if I can go from start to finish. I'll see a part that is needed, and get it via the web, or locally, and either do the job myself, or hand the part over to a mechanic on an appointment day saving time on how long my XJ is out of my hands.

Some of you all may have heard the saying: Late at night, if you listen very carefully, you can hear, (fill in the vehicle brand here), trucks rust. For those of us who live in salt air environments, or drive on salty type winter roads the "TIPS", are a must to consider when trying to chase down performance issues.

Another thing to you new guys, (and others), it is imperative to give feed-back to us all IF you were successful, (or not), in coming to a solution to your XJ problem based on the information from the good folks here who have scratched their heads, looked things up, peered under their hoods, or otherwise have offered their valuable time, and considerations to help out. That feed back is really important. I stress that because some get the help, and we do not hear again from them, and that leaves us all in limbo.., wondering...

I can get long winded, lol, but am indoors as the winds in my area of Alaska, have driven me inside, and I can type away a book worth of stuff. I try to keep my posts short where I can offer a solution, but on this post.., I have been given a little free room to go on, and on, and on, lol.

Over, and out.:soapbox:

Click to expand...

Interesting about the "rural" connections.

Cruiser54: Left your pdf on a tab, even though it had stopped transferring data, and about an hour later got a few more pages mysteriously enough. Am using XP OS, which works just fine with the old pdf reader.., but not with the google pdf hybrid.

Yeah, I live in an inter-net dead-zone, too many trees in the way for a satellite system either as they run way down along the horizon. I would think many Americans are in a similar situation, and we depend on our 4X4 vehicles to get in, and out of rural locations of choice. Thanks again Chief.

What if you downloaded one page at a time?

Sounds like you got a heck of a deal on your new toy.

I've owned two 89's (still have one) have a 90 as a daily driver, and a 91 as a project in frustration.

As to oil in the airbox... yes, it happens. The Renix has a Continuous Crankcase Ventilation system (CCV) rather than the more common PCV system of other vehicles. So there's always a little bit of oil getting sucked into the airbox.

A few tips and notes:

I prefer the closed cooling system, really the only thing that fails on it is the bottle, and you can buy replacements at NAPA for about $35. I monkeyed around with putting volvo bottles, and all kinds of other hasty repairs to the bottles when I first got my heep, but just buying the new one every 3-4 years has been the much more stable option. I have done open system conversions in the past with friends on their jeeps and it's largely an exercise in frustration. If you like driving back to the parts store for more parts, going to junk yard, or enjoy trying to compensate for the inanity of automotive engineers don't let me stop you.

As far as the airbox and the CCV go, a major issue is the stock tube that connects the CCV to the airbox often rots out, many people replace this with a chunk of hose that often kinks. The kink is a major issue and will eventually blow your rear main seal, if you do replace this hose, make sure to use a 90deg elbow to make the transition.

Tires - This can be an expensive option, if you want something that's "slightly better than stock" the goodyear wrangler radial 235/75R15 has been a very good replacement tire for me, and at about $100 installed from walmart, they're budget friendly also.

910cherokee.., where'd 'ya go?

Cruiser54: I would if I could. Several times.., only the first 3 pages. 4th time a few extra here, and there, lol. So I will try it 25 miles away from my hut in the future, and download it all.., I hope, and even better to pay money at Radio Shack to get hard copy. Really appreciate your work.

BulletMaker: A Bayou transplant made some mighty fine .44 mag 320g casted hot loads for my Ruger Blackhawk in case I have to come face to face to our over populated brown, and black bears that are awfully hungry this time of year!!!! (last year stepped into some steaming scat in the tall grasses 75 feet from my door. Thanks for that tip about the CCV tube.., I'll be sure to check mine soon.

Anyone had their emergency cable stretch to uselessness?

I finally had time to get my new vent lines today. Hopefully I can get them on this weekend so I can get the oil changed and a vehicle inspection done. I also need to change out a few bulbs so I can pass. Im thinking of putting treadwright tires on it. The next hurdle will be electrics, all the paddle switches next to the column aren't working along with the clock and radio. The only one that kinda does something is the rear window wiper, you can hear it click at the back that's all. After that I'm going to unstick 3 door windows, you can see them move 1/2" down and up. It' probably needs the tracks cleaned out and the regulator lubed it was stored a season under pine trees.

I cleaned the throttle body today man that thing was caked up. Got it started and now it's smoking. Could this be to all the gunk being loosened up from the cleaning or should I be really concerned?

910cherokee said:

I cleaned the throttle body today man that thing was caked up. Got it started and now it's smoking. Could this be to all the gunk being loosened up from the cleaning or should I be really concerned?

Click to expand...

Normal. Go run the piss out of it.

That's good to hear. Thank you. This 89 is a lot more complex than my 96 was.