Relocated alternator

I'm sick of going through alternators. So I decided I should relocate it so it isn't always getting dunked in the muddy/sandy water that I like to go through. Not only that, but having it down there also leaves it vulnerable to simply being splashed with mud that isn't all that deep. I'm sure a lot of us are familiar with this little issue already. Seems that some are luckier than others with the matter and don't seem to run into the problem as much.

I went about researching what solutions others had. I found splash guards. Those would work if I was just splashing through mud, but I also like to go through muddy water that easily submerges the alternator. So that is a no go for me. I also noticed some people replace the AC with the alternator, but I want to maintain the AC. It still works and I like to have my Jeep somewhat comfortable on the really hot and muggy days and someday I may want to use it for on-board air when the AC either stops working or I decide I can do without it. So again, not a solution for me. Then lastly, it seems there is a way to use the Wrangler setup that relocates the alternator. That seems like a lot of work though and more money then I want to spend. So yet again, not my cup of tea.

What I was really looking for, was someone that decided to put the alternator up where the battery is located. I figured someone had to have tried it, as that was the first place I thought of to put it and being able to maintain the AC. It also raises the alternator higher up then the Wrangler solution. It will require relocation of the battery, but I don't think that will be all that hard of a job. Especially being that I have the Spectre cowl intake, I can just put the battery where the original air box was.

So anyways, enough of my rambling on. Here are some pictures of the progress so far. I have a bit of welding to do to make the mount more solid, but the alternator is in place and looks as though it will work out well.





I used angle iron that bolts to the original alternator bracket bosses on the engine. I had originally thought about having the new bracket also bolt to the top bolts on the AC, but it is already solid enough to where I don't feel that will be necessary. Especially after I get the new bracket reinforced with welds and cross braces between the angle iron pieces.

This new location uses the same belt as factory. The only issue I feel may come up, is that the AC does not have as much belt wrap. If it proves to not be enough and the belt slips on the AC, I will probably put a idler pulley in place to fix the issue. The amount of wrap lost seems negligible though, so I'm hoping this will not be an issue.

Looks like you really need new battery cables and the connections cleaned, its a wonder it charges at all. If upgrading to a higher amp alt. you need to consider larger wiring like the ones from 5-90 (KellySwipe). I run his and they are top notch and ready made cut to fit with all the right connectors installed.

Replacing the cables and ends is on my to do list with this relocation. As well as re-wiring a few other things that are showing there age.

I am not sure what year XJ you have but there are a number of threads with various procedures on relocating the alternator. My XJ is a 1996 so I used the following threads as a guide to relocate the alternator to the top of the engine. I used everything from a 2.5 (4 cylinder) liter XJ of the same year as my own. There are also thread of how others did it on Renix XJ's.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016319

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1071445

Do a Google search using words like "alternator relocation " an look for the procedures that best suit your needs.

Im not gonna sugar coat it dude, thats hokey as shit. It might work on non-serpentine belt system, like old sbc's, but not for a serpentine system.

Best case scenario, the minute you tension that thing, it'll twist, and refuse to tension.

Worst case scenario, it waits till you hit WOT....

I double dog dare you to put a dial indicator on the top of the alt pulley, then tension to oem specs....

Techno. I've seen those threads and doing it this way seemed to be the cheapest and easiest. No parts to order or anything, just stuff I had laying around. That and I wanted to try this and see what it did. The only other way I would have done it is the way the WJ/TJ has it, but that seemed like major work. Maybe someday when I pull the engine for a stroker rebuild. For now, I'll test this out.

xcm. I'm not going to run it unless it's solid. This is just the position it will be in, not the final product. Good idea with the dial indicator though. When I get it the way I want it, I can double check to make sure it's solid. With how solid it already is (which surprised me, considering it is pretty "hokey as shit" as is), I don't see how it would move at all when I get the rest of the braces welded in.

Could just stay out of the mud and deep water.

Stay out of deep water and mud? That sounds pretty boring. I didn't build my Jeep to be a mall crawler. I build my Jeep to take on anything that I may come across. Which will sometimes be mud and deep water. So when something goes wrong, I do what it takes to make it better and more capable then before. Isn't that kind of what the modified section is about?

All about rocks here. Deep water or mud and i tap out. Stuff has always damaged more parts the rocks have.

No rocks around here to climb at all, so mudding is what most of the off-roaders do. Other than alternators and an occasional starter, the mud hasn't done too much damage to my Jeep. I don't partake all that often, as my rig is mostly for weekends at the river and camping. Although, it is nice to know it's capable of getting through the nasty stuff. I'll admit, it is a bit fun too. Especially when my Jeep is much more capable than the full size trucks with much larger tires. Was out with a girl last time I was mudding and fried the alternator, so I might have been trying a little to impress. Worked too, till I had to get pulled home... Haha.

Don't know if I'll ever get into the whole rock thing, even if I do move somewhere that has them. That makes me think of broken axles, driveshafts, punctured tires, rollovers and dented body panels. Maybe I'll hit the beginners trail though...

How about re-installing the factory splash guard?

re-installing? There was never a splash guard to begin with. Got this Jeep and it was bone stock, so I doubt the first owner took it off. Also, how would that help with muddy water that gets higher then the factory location?

Just a little update. Alternator has been working problem free in it's new location for over a year now. I definitely haven't taken it easy on the thing either. Helped my sister's bofriend build a XJ, so of course I've been out a little more than usual, putting our Jeeps to the test.

Took this picture just the other day.

Do you have any more specific details of the relocation, how and where the angle brackets are actual mounted to the engine block and alternator? I've seen this type alternate mount in the past but unable to remember details.
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My AC was removed and replaced using a bypass pulley. I've thought of moving the the stock alternator to the AC location replacing with a large case higher amp alternator.

One problem may be with changing the amount of belt wrap for the viscous fan.

OE Alternator in larger pickup trucks and SUVs are often placed in locations higher up. The Cherokee's stock location I think is primarily because of the AC and production costs, didn't relocate the alt. higher in XJ's without AC. Less cost and difficultly installing a bypass pulley.

There are Jeeps where the OE location is up higher and farther to the right. I can't recall specific years and models, however remember a few posts and write-ups of XJ owners using brackets from other vehicles modified and installed in XJ for a better location.

High output alternators are sometimes used in larger SUV's and trucks to run various types of high wattage electronics. It's common for owners to install several high amp alternators, normally along the top side of the serpentine belt using brackets.

As long as the bracket(s) and alternator are secured for the type of terrain that a vehicle will be subjected to, I can't see any problems other than maintaining enough belt wrap, low belt vibration with all the pulleys aligned. You don't want belt slippage, especially on a smooth side of a serpentine belt.

The lower pieces bolt to where the original alternator bracket mounted. The upper part bolts to the top of the A/C compressor. Then I used the original alternator mounting bracket and tried to use all the mounting holes on that to bolt to the new angle iron bracket. Then I just did some cross braces between the angle iron pieces. Triangulation is key in keeping it sturdy.

Probably not the best description of what I did, but it wasn't all that hard to do. Involved a lot of measuring, cutting, test fitting, welding, more cutting, more testing, more welding, test start, more cutting, welding and starting until I was satisfied with the final result.