Random shut down on a 90 xj larado, ive been in the automotive field for about 6-7 years but cant figure this out. Fuel pump went out and thought that was the problem but still happens with new pump, ive done all of crusiers common fixes and ive tested my alternator which tested good on a volt meter and battery/charging system tester. Gauge on dash only goes to the first line above the 9 which i figured is low, up graded the size of the alt, starter and added another wire to the battery which didnt help my "low voltage" gauge problem but my lights inside and out are brighter. Still didnt fix the random shut off, also fixed/upgraded all ground wires and added a few more grounds still no fix. Also want to add that no speakers work on left side of the jeep and tried with know good speakers. If possible id like to get crusiers input on this as ive read alot of his write ups and has help fix alot of my other problems but all input is welcome. New parts since ive owned it, head gasket water pump radiator spark plugs wire cap rotor valve cover gasket battery most recent, fuel pump and power wire upgrades
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renix problem
- Thread starter bmiller
- Start date
- Location
- Golden, CO
I worked on one that had a bad ignition module. It tested fine on the bench. Soon as it got hot under the hood, the engine would die.
- Location
- Golden, CO
I'll tell you the same thing I told my bud: "I'll Give ya $50 for it!" 
His wife had the module to the auto parts twice, one trip they checked it a number of times. I had to point out that it was cold by the time she got there. We dipped into the trail spares for another module, the problem went away.
Good luck!
His wife had the module to the auto parts twice, one trip they checked it a number of times. I had to point out that it was cold by the time she got there. We dipped into the trail spares for another module, the problem went away.
Good luck!
Lol, ill def look into this, i feel ive check everything else, i really tbink its my tps ive set it to perfect volts at full close but it shuts down randomly cold or hot , ive notice if i ease of the pedal coming to a stop it dont do it as much as it does if i just left off of it, i would replace it but money is kinda tight
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
A couple of things you might want to look at are, the IAC and the EGR.
The IAC will choke the motor when you let your foot off the gas if it sticks in the closed position. It is really common for the IAC to mess up with low voltage issues also. It is usually gum in the IAC or low voltage or both.
If the EGR sticks open and you let your foot off the gas, it may stall out or barely idle if at all.
Check your voltage at the larger of the two yellow wires at your ignition module. The voltage will typically be a volt or so less than battery voltage.
The contacts where the coil plugs into the module get questionable with age. The contacts loose there spring.
Maybe check your input voltage to the ECU. Two power lines, one is the on power from the ignition switch, the other is the main power. The ECU and any number of sensors, even the injectors go through a whole series of splices to the eventual ground at the dipstick holder. Even the ground ring itself where the wire crimps into it get corroded and can make iffy contact.
There are five connectors between the ballast resistor and the fuel pump. The resistor itself or any of the connectors can have a wiggle contact or even be slowly melting into a glob of crap. The fuel pump ground kind of looks like an after thought (poor engineering) and may be worth a look.
The IAC will choke the motor when you let your foot off the gas if it sticks in the closed position. It is really common for the IAC to mess up with low voltage issues also. It is usually gum in the IAC or low voltage or both.
If the EGR sticks open and you let your foot off the gas, it may stall out or barely idle if at all.
Check your voltage at the larger of the two yellow wires at your ignition module. The voltage will typically be a volt or so less than battery voltage.
The contacts where the coil plugs into the module get questionable with age. The contacts loose there spring.
Maybe check your input voltage to the ECU. Two power lines, one is the on power from the ignition switch, the other is the main power. The ECU and any number of sensors, even the injectors go through a whole series of splices to the eventual ground at the dipstick holder. Even the ground ring itself where the wire crimps into it get corroded and can make iffy contact.
There are five connectors between the ballast resistor and the fuel pump. The resistor itself or any of the connectors can have a wiggle contact or even be slowly melting into a glob of crap. The fuel pump ground kind of looks like an after thought (poor engineering) and may be worth a look.
Cps is new also and i just have to turn the key like i was just starting it, no problems restarting, def will look into the voltage at the module, ive done the ground refreshing and i upgraded the size of the grounds and changed that crappy ground strap from body to the back of the head, another thing ive noticed is if i pop the throttle few times in a row the idle will stumble/ shut off which is making thing i may have a bad tps. Ive cleaned the throttle body and iac. I also have excessive blow by and was going to do the valve cover mod to fix this but got side tracked by the other issues i have.
checked voltage at ign module and it was fine, it seems to only happen when a load is on the engine, like I can hold the brake in drive and hold the gas pedal alittle above idle and after a few seconds it shuts down. don't matter if the engine is warm or cold. im lost, stumped, aggervated, and just plain pissed I cant figure this out!
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Have you VERIFIED your CPS output per my #7? And the harness routing for the CPS?
#4 coil contacts?
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/
FWIW, I would gladly allow
to host a link to my Tips......