Rear hitch/skid plate - nut strips!

I have a 01 XJ with a U-Haul hitch and factory skid plate. The paint on the hitch was getting worse and I thought I'd take it off and paint it. The skid plate paint is faded, but still intact. Anybody know what kind of paint they used on that skid plate!

With the factory skid plate, there is a "nut strip" or "gas tank sill reinforcement" rather than the carriage bolt and plate that is often used for hitches. Most of the bolts used are the Chrysler style integrated washer/bolt design with 18 mm heads. The rear most bolts are 19 mm with flat washers.

The rear most bolt on the driver side sheared off with a 3 foot pipe. Maybe I didn't walk it back and forth enough times, or maybe it was simply doomed. All others came off with penetrant and walking back and forth.

Anyway, I am thinking I need to remove the bumper and replace this nut strip. I am wondering if anyone has replaced one of these if there are any complications? Does it simply come out and go back in or are there some tricks that are helpful.

http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Perf...x?t_c=74&t_s=433&t_pt=101374&t_pn=CRO52001175

I noticed the driver side part is NLA from the dealer, but the passenger side still is. But everyone else seems to sell the Crown part.

To replace nutstrips, the rear bumper is removed. The factory original strips a retained by a single rivet which is not required to be replaced. Pull out the old ones, and slide in the new ones.

Rustolem works well for skids, hitches, and bumpers.

Thanks Tim, I have not taken off the bumper yet. Where is the rivet?

Also, I noticed that U-Haul installed this hitch without following manufacturer recommendations? Manufacturer (Draw Tite) states that the exhaust hanger should be moved (so you have skid plate, hitch plate, and exhaust hanger) and that the skid plate must be drilled so there are 8 bolts holding the hitch to the car. On mine the skid plate was not drilled and exhaust hanger was not moved. The hitch has always been fine, but now that I know I guess I should do it right.

It looks like the hitch is rusted enough that a few layers of steel have been lost. I am thinking of buying a new one for $140 from U-Haul. If I go that route, I wonder if it makes sense to just use the install kit with carriage bolts rather than buy the nut strip.

Any suggestions?

I have done it both ways, fishing bolts into the frame rail sucks more than removing the bumper for nut strips. When, not if, you have to remove the hitch or skid plate, you will be so glad you used nut strips.

Thanks, I sprayed down all the bumper bolts with penetrant. Do you find it easier to remove the brackets or remove the bumper from the brackets? I'll be putting all bolts back with anti-seize!

md21722 said:

I am thinking of buying a new one for $140 from U-Haul.

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I'd look for a factory hitch I think they all interchange.
I have one off a '91 on my '96 and one off a '99 on the '89.
The factory hitch might fit a bit tighter to the body than the U-Haul.
Mike

Good idea Mike, I will check around. In the meantime I will try to drill or ez-out the fubared bolt and find some replacements. HD, Lowes, AZ don't have flanged bolts larger than M10. I'll probably check out Fastenal on Monday.

I had a factory hitch bought off a 93 that I put on my 87, and then on my 95, and then on my 99. A perfect fit on all.

As for the nut strip, the original bolts are coarse metric and not terribly easy to find. One option is to drill out the sheared bolt and then rethread all of them in the nearest US size. I can't remember what it is, but there is a coarse US thread size, probably 7/16, that is just a hair larger than the metric, with threads almost identical, and you can easily recut a rusty nut strip to this, and then use bolts that are easy to find.

Any nut strip is much easier to deal with than individual carriage bolts and fished-in nuts, which are a hassle to install and a nightmare to get out when rusted.

Thanks. I'll keep the nut strips. I'm going to try drilling that bolt out before changing the nut strip.

Really?
Easier to push a drill straight & upwards, on your back, than to fish the nut strip?
Well, I guess if it's rusty... with my "mild" rust, I'd go fishing each and every time.

I want more experience with drilling bolts and if successful it avoids buying a new part....

I found correct bolts for my stock nutstrips at my local ACE.
Maybe consider buying a set of the JCR nutstrips? I believe those use SAE threaded bolts.

It would be much easier with the nut strip in a vise. Besides, without bolts on either side to hold the nut strip down, the thing will move around on you.

Johnnie Walker said:

I found correct bolts for my stock nutstrips at my local ACE.
Maybe consider buying a set of the JCR nutstrips? I believe those use SAE threaded bolts.

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The nearest SAE size is so close to the metric that if you have the tap redoing it is really more like chasing a rusty thread than cutting a new one.

The factory bolts are M12-1.75x40. Ace, Lowes, and Home Depot all carry this bolt size as long as you don't demand the flanged head. Ace also has the flanged head but costs 2X as much. I actually have a M12-1.75 tap on hand. Unfortunately all my spare bolts are fine thread.

Any auto parts store sells these M12x1.75 bolts if you know where to look. In the help aisle you will find a package containing Ford(maybe GM cant remember) Brake Caliper bolts....Ask to check the thread pitch and the sales guy will open the package for you. they come in packages of two bolts for about 4 bucks. You're welcome

Dorman Part #13898 for those interested