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what to use on wire corrosion

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
My brake light connector at the pedal has corrosion in it and if I hold my foot on the brake for more than a minute the connector gets hot due to resistance

What would be more effective at removing corrosion:
dip connector in coke cola
dip connector in malt vinegar
or dip it in baking soda paste?

Im looking for the most effective and fastest acting.....
 
I may have bigger probs
Besides corrosion caused resistance what else would cause the plastic on the connector to get hot and get deformed?
Can the brake light switch get hot if its starting to go bad?
 
I would hook.it.up to my small test battery with a.bulb to test function.
If.the.switch can be disassembled and inspected do so. If not I would replace it
 
To fix corrosion, green rust, you have to dip in acid paste and burn off with small torch, then just crimp a new end on. If the corrosion goes all the way down the wire replace the whole thing.
 
I use a quality contact spray, while it won't get things shiny clean it does neutralize corrosion, loosens carbon and is formulated to enhance contact. All contact sprays aren't created equal, it sometimes takes a few tries to find a good one. I have a tiny set of brushes to scrub with, dental brushes.

Most times the inner switch contacts and connector pins are coated (plated), the quality of the switch or connector is often directly proportional to the quality of the coating (plating) on the contacts or pins. The coating doesn't last forever and if it gets flash burned it is unlikely to last very much longer even if the carbon and oxides are cleaned away. If the springs inside the switch overheat the switch is likely junk. Once the pins in the connector (male and female) overheat they tend to relax/get soft (especially the female pins) and make poor contact.
 
Last edited:
I use a product called Evapo-Rust, available at O'reilly Auto Parts, and an acid brush, to remove corrosion from connector pin cavities. I also use this product to clean the connector pins of an accessory/sensor, using a Q-Tip dipped in the product.

Evapo-Rust has no acids in it and will not harm copper, plastic, or rubber (components of a connector).

Pour some Evapo-Rust in a small container and using an acid brush, apply and agitate the pin cavities until all green, gray, black, corrosion deposits are removed. Then spray the pin cavities with CRC Electronic Cleaner.

Works fine.

I don't recommend using Dielectric grease on any electrical pin connectors.

Change the brake lamp switch.
 
outlander said:
Negative
Click to expand...

What do you mean "negative".

There are very few ways of repairing electrical connections so you don't ever have to deal with them again; replace the offending connectors/ switches , or soldering the connection/ replacing switches.

Once that connector has gotten arced enough to generate heat, you don't bother with cleaning it's just not worth the time or effort unless you are trying to resurrect an antique that will be seldom used.

Low current contact switches like are used by the AW4 selector switch are slightly different story. They simply oxidize, not pit. Cleaning is a reasonable solution in that situation.

-Ron
 
IMO....

The best way to repair a faulty connector is to replace it. Keep in mind here that the corrosion works it's way up the wire. I have seen (in older vehicles) as much as 3" of wire to be corroded.

What I do is to replace the connector and cut the harness back until I find good, clean, wire. Then... I cut it back an additional inch.

For the most part, connectors can be sourced. The only connector that I am finding difficult to source is the one on the PCM. And I do need some of those...
 
Thanks for the ideas
ill replace the switch im pretty sure thats where the heat is comming from...

if I have my foot on the brake for about two minutes I start smelling a plastic smell and the connector gets hot..

ive had all kinds of electric probs with this 89 and it was the first time I ever seen corrosion run up into the wires under the insulation....didnt think that was possible (was in the fuse box wires)had to cut those until I had clean wire and solder new wires on.
 
Just a thought from DJ
Take a look and see if you have this posters problem.
There have been numerous posts in the past regarding the clutch master cylinder leaking down onto the fuse panel which is directly below.
I was talking with my favorite salesman at my NAPA parts outlet and ask him where his Jeep was and he sadly informed me he had junked it because this hand happened to his and he didn’t have the time or the expertise to repair it and it was his daily driver. So keep a close lookout for this problem.

84XJ 5spd brake or clutch fluid leaked on fuse box
Electronic/wiring EXPERTS: HELP
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1045832
OP by thechief86: 10-14-2010
1984 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 4cylinder, 5spd, 4x4, Dana 30 & 35, 2door
 
One of the reasons that I swapped an AW4 into my 89 years ago....seemed like I was replacing leaky clutch cylinders about every 6 months under warranty and each time they leaked I had to flush and clean the entire fuse panel.
 
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