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Crank no fire in need of real help!!!

C

Chronicwheeler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vermont
2000 cherokee 4.0 Replaced coil pack and crank sensor still no fire. Geting voltage to the coil pack but I don't know if it is suppose to stay constant or not. Swapped in battery and ECU from friends jeep and fried the ground that goes from valve cover to fire wall WTF is going on with my jeep!!!!
 
Yea just quit and won't start gets fuel. No spark. It gets voltage to the pack. Still no spark and I replaced it with a brand new coil pack. Idk how many volts are suppose to be at the pack.
 
The first question to answer/problem to solve, is why did the ground wire fry ? Was that an existing problem before you began repairs, or did you mess up something ?

Next, did you buy a genuine Jeep CPS, or some crappy Chinese "Lifetime Warranty" junk CPS ?

Have you tested the CPS wire leads for 5 volts input and 5 volts signal with the key ON, and for continuity to ground ?

Have you inspected the Cam Position Sensor ?
 
Last edited:
The computer was a jeep one from a running driving cherokee. I didn't mess any thing up plugging stuff in so I think the ground may be pre existing. My coil pack is getting power I need to know if the power is suppose to constant or interment. The CPS is good. I have to checked the cam sensor. I have checked all fuses there good . Idk how to check relays properly.
 
Don't get so focused on the coil pack that you forget the basics:

So, did you fix the ground wire ? Did you remove, clean, and snug all the other ground connections ?

Did you test the CPS wire leads for 5 volts input and 5 volts signal with the key ON, and for continuity to ground ?

Did you buy a genuine Jeep CPS, or some crappy Chinese "Lifetime Warranty" junk CPS ? Did you test the CPS ? Genuine Jeep does make a difference.
 
To answer you question about the coil pack power, the power should be intermittant. The coil pack is just 3 coils in one. Each coil fires in turn when the ECU breaks the ground for that circuit.

But if you are checking a wire taking the 12 volts in, that would always test hot, not intermittant.
 
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