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AW4 Maintenance ? and checklist

SBpunk

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Enid, OK
So my XJ is disabled and cant be started. Is there anything wrong with changing out the trans fluid / filter when I cant run the trans thru the gears?

Also while its out should I do anything besides change the fluids (8qt), filter, clean the pan and new gasket (w/ blue RTV)? 1992 4.0 btw. Changing sig. now
 
Just drain the fluid and put the same amount back in.

Concur.

Blue should be fine, but Permatex does make a RTV specifically for transmission pans. I also like to use The Right Stuff.

I prefer to use cork gaskets and no RTV, makes it easier to clean things up later. If you want to simplify the job a bit (eliminate wrestling,) you can use about a half-dozen strategically-placed M6-1.0x25m/m studs and flanged nuts to keep everything in place while you get the screws all started.
 
The only issue with a dump and replace is that the torque converter will still be holding the old fluid thus contaminating the new.

IMO, this is not an issue if regular fluid exchanges are being made. I had mine done by the Dealership as it had been a very long time since it was last exchanged. The only reason I used them was that they guaranteed that all of the fluid would be exchanged.

The cost was significant higher than a simple replace but, it got it all and now the simple exchanges can happen.

If memory serves, the AW4 does not actually have a "filter" in it. It has a screen that is good for catching large chunks of stuff.

That being said, there have been some good threads, here on NAXJA, about installing a proper filter inline with the transmission cooler.
 
Yeah I have the fluids, screen and gasket. I was under the impression that if you pulled the screen the rest of the fluids came out. If anything I'll do a drain and fill again after 400ish miles using the drain plug and see if the fluids are any better. I started draining it yesterday and its black as bad oil. Guessing it hasnt ever been changed and its probably pushing 200k miles. Who knows how many hours idling.
 
No more fluid comes out with screen removal than the drain plug......

Drain and fill, drain and fill each week until the fluid looks pink.

Sweet. I thought last time a shite load more came out when I pulled the screen off. I might have just been annoyed though and seemed worse than it was the first time I did it. This is my 1st step to restoring her to a DD. Next is the motor. Fluids, oil pump, pickup tube, oil filter, rear main seat etc. etc.
 
Excellent plan. Don't kill yourself though.

As far as oil leaks, this may help:





I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013
 
Excellent plan. Don't kill yourself though.

As far as oil leaks, this may help:





I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

Yup this isn't my first time having to do this. It might not be the RMS but figured while I'm down there might as well. From the condition of the rest of the jeep I highly doubt its been changed. If you couldve seen/smelt the trans fluid you'd probably have a heart attack lol. I'm going all out.

RMS, Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, distributer seal, oil pump, pickup tube, oil adapter gasket/seal, rotella non-synthetic 15/40, KN filter, new 4 point injectors, clean fuel, inline trans filter eventually and a few other things I can't think of.
 
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