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CKS Fun

FourCJsOneXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
In The Sticks
Appears the CKS in my ‘95 Sport 4.0L 5 spd went away.

It was a slow intermittent mix of symptoms. All began with IAC like intermittent junk, the rough idle, dies while idling, stalls when coming to stop sort of stuff. IAC tested fine, measured the proper tip-to-base distance and throw, so I cleaned the IAC plunger, spring, tip and its home in the TB orifice as I’ve done on so many other vehicles, this is the only time this didn’t cure the problem.
 
The symptoms gradually moved on to "cranks but won’t start", acted like a fuel issue and for a while and a shot of gas into the intake manifold via the brake vacuum canister hose would get it fired, ended up being coincidence, the time preparing to do it apparently allowed the CKS to cool sufficiently so it worked properly once again.
 
Measured the CKS, it checked fine cold or warm, given its intermittent nature I never could measure it quick enough while heat soaked to get a bad test result.
 
Then it began just shutting down at speed, no notice, no codes, nothing! Just dead at 55 mph on curvy narrow mountain roads with blind corners and no shoulders . . . nice!
 
I’ve read about thermal issues causing the CKS to get squirrely with age, mine has 158k on it so I ordered an OEM Mopar replacement.
 
While waiting for the UPS dude to deliver it I yanked the suspect, fun stuff there! Pulled the thing out, the rubber grommet came with it and disintegrated mid air (placed ANOTHER order).
 
Upon inspection, the CKS tip looked all caked with grease and dirt. Just inspecting, I cleaned the thing up and tried to scrape what I thought was dirt build up from the perimeter of the tip, wouldn’t budge!


That’s when I realized it was the tip itself, all melted and mushroomed. Hard to believe the thing measured fine when cold and actually still worked until heat soaked but it did. The sensor housing/body was nearly an 1/8th inch shorter than the new one due to the mushrooming; there was no sign of abrasion on the tip face . . . just odd!!!
 
Mine is the non-adjustable two bolt variety so I temporarily covered the opening in the bell housing and reinstalled the bolts leaving enough gaps for the CKS bracket to slide in and after opening (cutting out) the bottom portion of the bracket holes on the old one, slipped it in. With less than two turns each bolt was secured so I could at least move the rig out of my way without installing the new CKS until the grommet arrives.
 
Problem solved for now but what a journey and lesson learned!!!
 
Has anyone experienced the "melting" and "deformation" I found? I've never seen this before and am guessing it's due to thermal shorting of the guts??
 
Are you refering to the CPS? Those fail all the time. Good idea to carry a spare. I've never had one go bad, but now that I've said that....
 
Given its location near the exhaust, and how common XJ exhaust manifold leaks are, if an exhaust leak was blowing on it .........
 
SORRY!!! :attom:

It's the CKS, CKP, CKPS or CranKshaft Position Sensor . . . whatever term, abbreviation or acronym best differentiates it from the "CPS" AKA Camshaft Position Sensor.

It's tough to imagine anything other than an issue internal to the sensor as causing the meltdown and mushrooming.

Twas just odd to discover, figured I couldn't be the only one who has seen this sort of thing but apparently once again . . . I am! :eeks1:
 
I'm new to this site but have been driving Cherokees for many years now. I owned a 2001 for ten years before trading it in for a new Toyota Tacoma. I just recently bought a 2000 Cherokee (for fun) and have been fighting a rough, low idle with no codes. I have replaced everything except for the computer and the crank position sensor. I find it interesting to see your results from tinkering with your CPS. I have a new Mopar CPS in my garage. I may just change it out now. My XJ is a 2000 4.0 4x4 with an automatic tranny. I have replaced the battery, battery temp sensor, coil pack, plugs, MAP, TPS, IAC, coolant temp sensor, cleaned the throttle body, new O2 sensors, and installed new Bosch 784 injectors. Dry compression numbers are between 146 and 150 on the cylinders. The motor has 65,000 on it but the chassis has 180,000 miles. All parts replaced are OEM Mopar. The O2 sensors are NTK. Yesterday I checked the Camshaft position sensor indexing too. I will kick myself if this all boils down to the damn crank position sensor!!!
 
Re: CranKshaft Position Sensor Fun

I'm new to this site but have been driving Cherokees for many years now. I owned a 2001 for ten years before trading it in for a new Toyota Tacoma. I just recently bought a 2000 Cherokee (for fun) and have been fighting a rough, low idle with no codes. I have replaced everything except for the computer and the crank position sensor. I find it interesting to see your results from tinkering with your CPS. I have a new Mopar CPS in my garage. I may just change it out now. My XJ is a 2000 4.0 4x4 with an automatic tranny. I have replaced the battery, battery temp sensor, coil pack, plugs, MAP, TPS, IAC, coolant temp sensor, cleaned the throttle body, new O2 sensors, and installed new Bosch 784 injectors. Dry compression numbers are between 146 and 150 on the cylinders. The motor has 65,000 on it but the chassis has 180,000 miles. All parts replaced are OEM Mopar. The O2 sensors are NTK. Yesterday I checked the Camshaft position sensor indexing too. I will kick myself if this all boils down to the damn crank position sensor!!!


Yup, I've been luking here mooching tips for quite some time but found this melt down so odd I just had to see if anybody else had encountered it.
I can’t believe all the different symptoms this thing tossed at me before it finally showed its true colors!
Since you already have one you may as well give it a swing, nothing to lose except some time, your patience and some skin/blood. ;)
At least when you finally find the problem you’ll have a bunch of stuff you don’t have to concern yourself with for a while!!
 
I have no problem replacing any or all parts on this Cherokee. Since electronics don't have an infinite life, replacing suspect bad components and figuring out how they operate is fun. I'm and aircraft avionics guy, and I have seen the craziest and simplest things make systems on an aircraft go nuts! I've never owned a vehicle long enough to encounter failed or intermittent problems. Now, I'm learning about fuel injection. I bought a WiFi OBD2 reader for use with my ipad, and I can see how fuel trims, O2, Load, Vacuum, and all kinds of stuff work to keep me running! My only problem is, the Jeep runs great off idle, and nothing sensor wise that I can interface too is giving any clues!
 
I have no problem replacing any or all parts on this Cherokee. Since electronics don't have an infinite life, replacing suspect bad components and figuring out how they operate is fun. I'm and aircraft avionics guy, and I have seen the craziest and simplest things make systems on an aircraft go nuts! I've never owned a vehicle long enough to encounter failed or intermittent problems. Now, I'm learning about fuel injection. I bought a WiFi OBD2 reader for use with my ipad, and I can see how fuel trims, O2, Load, Vacuum, and all kinds of stuff work to keep me running! My only problem is, the Jeep runs great off idle, and nothing sensor wise that I can interface too is giving any clues!

Yeah, mine never hesitated when given the boot!

Navy "Data Systems Technician" here, worked on gear that put early Apollo space shots up only we used it to make sure our nukes went where intended if needed.

Worked on crypto stuff and a myriad of other junk as well, repaired to the component level including ferrite core memory repair down to the failing "bit". Chasing intermittent stuff was common place.

Am I dating myself? :laugh3:

I have a first year S197 '05 Mustang GT. Got an OBDII Xcal II tuner for it containing custom tunes tailored to my mods. Can data log nearly 500 parameters to an Excel spreadsheet on a laptop in the passenger seat real time, tells me if I have a flaky diode in the alternator and other useful data.


Didn't toss parts at this thing but it was temping instead of chasing a ghost, fortunately it finally revealed itself and extracting the sensor proved it.

Prefer my old school rigs when it comes to 30 miles in the woods from nowhere reliability and repair but it is what it is.
 
Navy AE (VS-22, S3B Viking) here! I work at Garmin Aircraft Certification now.
Believe it or not, most everything that I have changed out were close to the end of tolerance as written in the FSM. Some parts like the O2 sensors were replaced just as a good measure! I sure can't wait to swap that CPS out this weekend... If it doesn't fix the problem, I'm gonna buy a PCM. Once all avenues are exhausted, time to pull the harness and rewire!
 
Navy AE (VS-22, S3B Viking) here! I work at Garmin Aircraft Certification now.
Believe it or not, most everything that I have changed out were close to the end of tolerance as written in the FSM. Some parts like the O2 sensors were replaced just as a good measure! I sure can't wait to swap that CPS out this weekend... If it doesn't fix the problem, I'm gonna buy a PCM. Once all avenues are exhausted, time to pull the harness and rewire!

Right on my Brother-in-Arms!

Did six and got out in '80 off the USS Chicago CG-11. "The Most Powerful Guided Missile Cruiser in the World" at the time, flag ship of the 7th fleet and test bed for the Aegis Combat System.

Spent the rest of my 32 year career in I.T.

The last 16 running the I.T. infrastructure of a College Campus . . . retired at age 50, the PC and politics junk sucked!

Yeah, I did the CVs, "U" joints and other junk recently as routine maintenance while adding a few reliability upgrades along the way.

This stripper is a keeper; AC is the only "luxury" item!
 
Re: CranKshaft Position Sensor Fun

Finally had time to post up pictures of the melted down sensor, think this was the problem?


CranKshaftPositionSensorsMeltDown_zpse3c507ad.jpg




Here are the tools I used. The extensions and loss proofed 11mm socket (ratchet used to break loose/tighten bolts not shown), piece of coat hanger used to dig out disintegrated remains of the old cover from the slot in the front of the bell housing that the grommet/cover lip slips into, old/new sensors and the only cover I could find that's still available (52117660).


CranKshaftPositionSensorsGrommetTools_zps22150007.jpg




As mentioned in the following quote, trimming of the cover WAS required even though mine is a '95 XJ Sport. I have a 5 speed and have to assume that P/N is for an automatic.

53005129, 1, GROMMET, 1991 and below
52117660, 1, GROMMET, 1992 and up

53005129 is no longer available, 52117660 is. I'll order the -7660 and hope it will "trim to fit".

Here's how much had to come off. Yup, it no longer has the lip that locks it into the rear of the bell housing opening but it fits flush and is better than no cover at all IMHO.


CranKshaftPositionSensorGrommetCoverTrimmedOffPiece_zps672c5c39.jpg




Here's a view from the top for the "trimmed" cover. Too close for my old camera even on "macro".


CranKshaftPositionSensorGrommetCoverTrimmed1_zpsb272a0ec.jpg
 
Any witness marks on the flywheel?

I am guessing that at some point in time, the bell housing was loose, dropping the CPS to the flywheel.
 
Well, this certainly is perplexing. I had the old sensor back in it once the melt down was discovered so I could move it to do the deed once the new one and grommet/cover arrived. It ran great, until it got heat soaked and died. Let it cool a few minutes and it would start right up.

Finally had time yesterday and did the deal. Tied up loose ends in the engine compartment late this morning, pulled the wheel chocks and jack stand, fired it up and backed it off the ramp. Idled fine and let it warm up a bit.

Went to move it and gave it a few blips of pedal, gets to about 1500 rpm and starts missing/running rough.

Even though mine is the non-slotted type and I have a thin flat grommet/cover and I fully seated the thing down on the bolts while tightening them, I'm thinking it's either a defective sensor or too far away from the fly wheel (I notched the bottom of the holes so I could slip it in without taking the bolts out) or it is in fact too close due to whatever.

I bought it about 18 years ago with 78k on it, it's up to 158k now. During the time I have owned it the bell housing, tranny, transfer case etc have never been touched excepting fluid changes. I suppose it's possible that the bell housing is loose and has dropped a tad as suggested. It redlined without any vibration prior to the sensor swap so I don't suspect a loose fly wheel or crankshaft flopping around.

Too hot our there this afternoon and I'm sick of it for today anyway. Tommorrow I'll check for vacuum leaks I may have created messing around with the connector for the sensor but lacking any discovery there I guess I'm gonna have to get back under there and verify the bell housing is where it should be.

I may just try to get a feeler gauge in there without disturbing it as it currently sits. Otherwise, it may be time to pull and inspect the sensor/fly wheel for witness marks. If there still aren't any I'll have to get creative with some silly putty on the sensor head to discover just how close it's getting to the fly wheel when I think it's seated properly.

Alternately, (as I recall) it’s suppose to sit about the thickness of a paper match (laid out flat) away from the fly wheel so I guess one could affix same to the sensor head and see it feels bottomed on a high spot of the flywheel, then just tighten the bolts and let the paper fly where it will.

:sure:
 
Thanks for the follow up! I like puzzles. :confused1

Any incidents of clutch abuse? Have you loaned it out, ever?
 
Re: CranKshaft Position Sensor Fun

Thanks for the follow up! I like puzzles. :confused1

Any incidents of clutch abuse? Have you loaned it out, ever?

I like puzzles too (not the cardboard type) unless I have better things to do! :)

Oh, my teen age kid grew up driving it for a year or two back and forth to High School but she is now a 26 year old success story and her tenure behind the wheel is gone LONG ago.

She started driving my '71 CJ5 on tough trails when she was 8 or 9 so she knows how to work a clutch. To this day she wont drive anything but a stick and I've beat the crap out of her current ride, an '07 Civic Si worse than she ever did the XJ.

I know where you are going with this train of thought but my XJ fried the tires just accelerating hard in 1st with the melted sensor and now it can't get out of its own shadow.

At least I know I'm in the right place! :gonnablow
 
FourCJsOneXJ said:
my XJ fried the tires just accelerating hard in 1st with the melted sensor



As you have stated, I think you have more than one problem.

I have removed Crank Sensors that had witness marks and metal shavings stuck to them, and they still worked. Just for grins, measure the resistance across the coil of the old Crank Sensor. Then, let it heat soak in a 200* oven (toaster oven if that keeps you out of the dog house), and measure resistance at temperature. The multi-meter tells much. :)
 


As you have stated, I think you have more than one problem.

I have removed Crank Sensors that had witness marks and metal shavings stuck to them, and they still worked. Just for grins, measure the resistance across the coil of the old Crank Sensor. Then, let it heat soak in a 200* oven (toaster oven if that keeps you out of the dog house), and measure resistance at temperature. The multi-meter tells much. :)

Thanks but just changing a melted Crankshaft Position Sensor turned it from a tire firing rig to a turd, how does that work?

Worked on stuff to a compontent level that put nukes where our Military wanted them in the '70s, think Beta testing for our modern Aegis Combat Systems.

Appreciate the suggestions though!!! ;)
 
Thanks but just changing a melted Crankshaft Position Sensor turned it from a tire firing rig to a turd, how does that work?
Prove that the old part failed in the expected operating conditions. My education is far inferior to yours, there is much that I do not know. I do know that you have condemned a part on visual examination. Where are the numbers? Where is the process of deduction based on measurements? Some of us under educated folk thrive on such a framework.

How can an inductive pickup distort the thermoplastic that supports it?

Back to the running like a turd question; did you dump the memory in the ECU?
 
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