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Long arm and trussed D30 installed...Woohoo!!!

D

dirtweazle

NAXJA Forum User
Location
So Cal
I finally finished..:confused1:repair:

Fully(ish) built and trussed D-30 (yea I know) crossover high steer on WJ brakes, 4.56, Ballistic truss and spring plates and 4 link sockets. JKS WJ flip steering. Bla bla bla. Also long arm kit installed at same time.. Talk about nickle and dime to death!!! Same springs I had before with RE drop bracket kit but got another ~ 2" of lift.. Test drove today and will now officially cross over to the dark side by cutting off the stock frame side lower mounts.

Few issues I can fix but nothing major. Now need to flex it up and see.:eyes:

WwEHH16.jpg


jMUEN15.jpg


IOOPgfj.jpg
 
After installing a new trans mount the crossmember would shove all the way up into the trans well and the crossmember would not sit flat to the frame. Once the mount breaks in I will remove the spacers.. Besides old bolts broke and retapped with 9/16. Their are two cross bars that make up the crossmember.

Also will be making a bar from the tabs of the crossmember to the sliders when again trans mount settles.
 
Trans mounts don't settle really, not enough to make that much of a difference. If its pushing the tranny up to much, the mounts off the cross member are probably too high. Even without the spacers, its still just waiting to cause problems. I would never trust a cross member with just two bolts per side.
 
Trans mounts don't settle. Did you build that crossmember? Looking at the stock crossmember, the trans mount surface on it is probably 1/2-3/4" lower that the frame rail.

So 2 9/16's bolts per side into the "framerail" using spacers. If you just drilled/tapped you are going into a nutsert that was put in by the factory. The spacers give more leverage from the LCA's against the crossmember. You may want to rethink how the lower arms mount. Most the aftermarket kits wrap around the sides of the frame rails and have you weld in crush sleeves. I would hope a couple good hard stops with those green pads won't fold your axle under because the cross member rips loose.
 
Looking over pics on google I see boxing in the frame side socket is a good idea.. Will work on that.. As well as removing the spacers post haste. I dont think it was the cross member with the issue being too tall but the trans mount was very tall compared to the one still stuck to the stock crossmember.

Thanks for the helpful input guys.. Thats why I posted.
 
Mine sandwich the framerail, are welded to the frame stiffeners and have been drilled sleeved and bolted. The "holes" for the crossmember were only used to locate them.

After spending all that money on the WJ setup, I'd hate to see you fold the LCA's because you ripped the sheet metal out of the frame rail.
 
Need to figure out why the trans mount is so high and will get the spacers removed and then box in the crossmember.



markw: If you got pics it could get the gears in my head movin.. Got an idea already but pics always make me go "ahh yea, thats a better idea.."
 
I got rid of the spacers and will be welding in the support for the crossmember tomorrow. Will post pics. Not as HD as rockclimbers but much better than what I had.
 
Drilling frame rails are a PITFA!!! Finished with a regular hole saw to the size of the non-crush sleeve in an angle grinder. Worked really well and was fast.. So anyone that reads this and is doing this work should do that and not the 32 other things I tried.

Stock bolt locations where upgraded to 9/16 and the cross frame bolts are 9/16. It is also backplated inboard the frame rails and tubes in between so frame no crush. The weld is actually not to bad. Good penetration according the the heat pattern. Problem was welder was on a way to long extension cord and kept pooping the breaker after about half an inch.. It was also upside down lying on a creeper and a bit of a breeze. Basically worst conditions.

OcIawVM.jpg

BetonX8.jpg

6sKlcD3.jpg
 
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