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Full traction vs Rustys 4 link

sakers288

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ft. Bragg, NC
So I have a 98 xj and I've been looking at the lomg arm 4 link kits by full traction and rustys over getting a radial long arm because I just don't like the downsides I hear about long/radial arm lifts. Anyone ran either of these setups and if so what's the quality like?
 
I would go with full traction everyday of the week if I had the money. The NAXJA KOH XJ uses the full traction four link...
 
I have the Rustys long arm and its alright. My main issue it the shitty Johny joints they use. Overall I am happy with radial arm setup, but then again I have no experience with other kits
 
its radius not radial...and op why you dead set on 4-link you can do a 3-link too and depending on what your gonna do with the jeep radius arms might work very well for you or if its gonna be a mall crawler just stick with short arms
 
:banghead: yeah sorry, I typed that and didn't realize what I was typing or my tablet corrected it. This jeep will be about 60% road, 40% trail. I'm doin a 5.3 l33/4l60e swap on it. It's also getting an 8.8 rear, 44 front. 33's. I want as much stability as possible. Not planning on taking this thing around the Moab rim anytime soon, I don't have it caged, and I don't have time nor the experience to cage it. Same goes for building my own 3 or 4 link. I'm a very mechanical adept person. And I'm a good welder and not bad with metal fab. But I don't have the knowledge or confidence to go slamming tabs on axles, building subframe mounts, and making my own arms when I know what the results could be of poor geometry...my wife and kids gotta ride in this thing at 65 on the freeway. And I don't like the way radius arm setups act on hills and I've heard some other crazy ass stories about em.
 
I would go for
FT, Synergy Susp, or Clayton 3-link
 
I love my pro series 3 link from Clayton offroad.
Handles well while crawling, and handles great when I'm hauling ass thru the desert.
 
I was looking at Claytons for a while btw. But there I cannot justify those prices even if their stuff is built very well. Kinda make me scratch my head...and that kinda goes for all the suspension companies. They either make crap or charge out a** for anything worth bolting on your vehicle. Also I was gonna try and keep my lift around 4.5 to 5 inches...there's is 6.5. And I emailed them and they said that I couldn't run lower springs because the control arms would hit the floor...which makes sense when I looked at their pictures.
 
I don't know much about the Clayton 3-link. I have their 4-link and I absolutely freaking love it. One of my favorite pieces on my rig and I have changed a LOT.

Between the two the OP listed? Full Traction. I had Rusty's and I will never own another Rusty's product again. Such junk.

Scott
 
I ran the Poly Performance 3-link with 4.5" springs. Cleared everything just fine and even fit my TnT belly pan with the Poly brackets. It's the only 3/4 link kit out there I've seen with bent high clearance LCA's.

I picked it over the Full Traction kit and don't regret it, but I'd say FT and Clayton are still great kits. Just personal preference.
 
TNT has the bent LCA for clearance...

I was waiting for this comment...

It's the only 3/4 link kit out there I've seen with bent high clearance LCA's.


As for your question, it appears that Poly no longer sells the 3-link kit, but they have the 4 link. Either is fine I guess, the 4 link upgrade kit is completely bolt on, mine required a bit of welding. I liked the 3 link because it got rid of the shitty stock axle side UCA bushings. The upper had johnny joints on both sides.

Basically buy these brackets:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-XJ-Front-Long-Arm-Bracket-Kit-p-20680.html

And these LCA's
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...-Long-Arm-Lower-Control-Arm-Pair-p-20911.html

For the upper I had to cut off the stock passenger side axle mount and weld on this bracket: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...racket-For-3.0-Dia.-Tube-Un-Welded-p-701.html

The UCA was just a piece of DOM with tube adapters and two johnny joints.



Eventually I incorporated the link into a truss to make it stronger

 
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