Got the Throttle Body Sensors Wet.

Oops. New hood vents and automatic carwash don't mix. Got the Check Engine light immediately following the car wash but made it home Ok, seemed to run Ok, but was high idle in Park. The connectors on all 3 sensors were wet on the surface (99). Next day, after disconnecting the Neg battery the Check Engine was cleared but higher than normal idle remained, albeit a bit lower (1K rpm), then when I drove it the CE came back, jeep ran rough and wouldn't shift normally. Brought it home after a block and have blown out all 3 connectors with air and will leave them disco'd tonight. Hopefully, that's all it is. Shouldn't have ruined anything I hope. MAP, TPS, ???
Can I clear the CE code by grounding the Positive battery cable? Do I need to cycle the key? How many times??
I have access to a code reader but hope to clear the code and try to run this thing before I borrow the reader. If all is good I'll put dielectric grease in all the connectors and maybe further seal them with LR Tape (thick, stretchable, soft rubber sealing tape 2" wide; it's not electrical tape per se) so it won't happen again.

Another possibility is water through the intake with the cowl induction. Always leave my rigs running in automatic carwash.. d'oh.. obviously wasn't thinking straight with the new CI. I'll pull the sensors if I have to and clean them with electronics spray cleaner and see if I have any residue.

Somebody out here had to have done something like this right. Point me in the right direction if you can. Save the admonishments please.. I get it.. now.. LOL. What a Maroon!

Thanks.

most likely, you got moisture in the TPS. those things freak out if you so much as sneeze on them. once that happens, it's tough to get the insides dry again. you may have to just replace it....

Dielectric grease should help prevent that.

Disconnecting the negative cable clears the code. It also clears the idle settings in the computer so that may have been the cause of the longer than normal high idle the first few times you start it again. Also note that there is no key trick to clear the check engine light. The computer has to go through three start-up/cool down cycles with no symptoms and then the check engine light will turn itself off. If it detects symptoms of whatever caused the light to turn on, it will stay on until it passes the three cycles clear. Or you can disconnect the negative cable...

remove TPS.

place in a warm location, an oven set on warm, or a black plastic bag set on the parcel shelf in a hot car.

you have to thoroughly warm it to dry the moisture inside. a dessicant packet in the plastic bag will help.

Great info on the three cycles Eric I would have been wondering why my check engine didn't clear after I replaced the TPS. The new TPS did take care of the problem.

And I might take the old TPS and warm it up then put it back into see if it works. I had planned on buying another to carry as a spare anyway.

You guys rock!

Take a couple of cups of dry uncooked white rice and heat it up in the microwave. Put the tps in it and wrap it in tin foil. The rice will suck up the moisture over a day or two. This also works for cell phones.

Wow I'm learning all kinds of good stuff!

I've been through 3 throttle position sensors since putting my hood vents on about 6 years ago. Just one of those things.

x2 on the dielectric grease and that will not happen again.

rav said:

x2 on the dielectric grease and that will not happen again.

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I put about a 3/4" long dab on the terminals of the plug.. hopefully that's enough. Will do the other two sensors as well.

What about injector connectors?

NOTNSUV said:

I put about a 3/4" long dab on the terminals of the plug.. hopefully that's enough. Will do the other two sensors as well.

What about injector connectors?

Click to expand...

The grease should be done in a wide bead around the input shaft. That is where the leak is that kills them, not the electrics.

old_man said:

The grease should be done in a wide bead around the input shaft. That is where the leak is that kills them, not the electrics.

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Peachy. Guess I'll pull it and grease the shaft. Will give me a chance to try the old one after 2 days in the rice.. lol.
The check engine did clear on the 4th startup/warmup.. whew!

Thanks.. from one old guy to another.

Done. Got the dialectric in the shaft cavity.

Thanks for the help gang.

Don't forget to make sure the o-ring on the TPS is still in good condition.