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can i reuse driveshaft "U" clamps?
- Thread starter MUKAK714
- Start date
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You can but I wouldn't unless I had to get it back together NOW, it's not recommended.
They're part number 2-70-18x from northerndrivetrain.com, should be about 5 bucks a set.
Run a 1/4-28 UNF tap through the holes in the yoke ears carefully before installing the new ones to clean dirt/corrosion out.
Oh and those are 5/16 bolt heads... use a 6 point wrench or socket only if you value your sanity. 12 points round them off really easy.
They're part number 2-70-18x from northerndrivetrain.com, should be about 5 bucks a set.
Run a 1/4-28 UNF tap through the holes in the yoke ears carefully before installing the new ones to clean dirt/corrosion out.
Oh and those are 5/16 bolt heads... use a 6 point wrench or socket only if you value your sanity. 12 points round them off really easy.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I have no idea what the right torque is, I just set em to what feels right.
A local store is going ot charge you more for a shittier part... can you put the swap off a few days? If you can't, just reuse the old ones, order the new ones now and put them on when they arrive. It isn't the end of the world, but the straps do stretch a bit in use and if you reuse them, they stretch more. I've reused them 2-3 times without ill effect but I've also seen them come off in pretty rough shape after one use... I usually keep the old ones in the center console as trail spares, honestly, they'll get you home and to work no problem.
Same site sells spicer ujoints as well, I usually pick up a few spares at the same time so I don't get so boned on shipping. The part number for driveshaft ujoints is 5-153x, axleshaft ujoints are 5-260x for 1 1/16" diameter cap ones and 5-760x for 1 3/16" diameter cap ones. Their prices are usually better than most other sites, but check around elsewhere before ordering, see if you can find something cheaper.
A local store is going ot charge you more for a shittier part... can you put the swap off a few days? If you can't, just reuse the old ones, order the new ones now and put them on when they arrive. It isn't the end of the world, but the straps do stretch a bit in use and if you reuse them, they stretch more. I've reused them 2-3 times without ill effect but I've also seen them come off in pretty rough shape after one use... I usually keep the old ones in the center console as trail spares, honestly, they'll get you home and to work no problem.
Same site sells spicer ujoints as well, I usually pick up a few spares at the same time so I don't get so boned on shipping. The part number for driveshaft ujoints is 5-153x, axleshaft ujoints are 5-260x for 1 1/16" diameter cap ones and 5-760x for 1 3/16" diameter cap ones. Their prices are usually better than most other sites, but check around elsewhere before ordering, see if you can find something cheaper.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
They should be - they're common parts.
I don't suggest using a tap to clean the holes - get a 1/4"-28x1" hex head capscrew, cut two flutes across the threads (180* apart,) and use that as a "thread chaser." If you screw up with a tap, you can end up cutting crossed threads.
I also tend to replace the OEM screws with 1/4"-28x3/4" socket head capscrews, I find them easier to work with.
As far as install torque, tighten to 14 lb-ft, and consider the use of LocTite #242 (or equivalent) to be mandatory.
The screws should be replaced every time they are removed - in all driveshaft positions (they're cheap enough. The ones on the Double Cardan at the front output on the transfer case should be 5/16"-18x1.75", later ones may be M8-1.25x40mm, or thereabouts.)
The straps may be tempered for reuse, I've had good luck putting them in the oven on the highest setting (typically ~500*F) for an hour, then turning the oven off and leaving the door closed to let them cool. This helps to relieve stresses gained from work hardening (I know it's not a high enough temperature for thorough tempering...) but you're really better off to replace them. Your local should have them in the HELP! Section - the screws that come with it should have threadlocker preapplied (it will be a blue patch on the threads.)
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
you can re-use them but you shouldn't, there's literally no difference side by side looking at the parts between the parts store "precision" brand and the spicer parts for those straps. i've never had a problem with the parts store ones and I can't say i know anyone who has.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
If you manage to cross thread a tap into an already tapped hole... you are more clumsy than me, which is saying a lot :dunce:
The transfer case ones are 5/16-24x1.25", not 5/16-18x1.75" - and I've never, ever seen metric ones there, even on 01s. Dana/Spicer loves their SAE hardware.
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
"Can re-use them but shouldn't"?
I have never even seen a new one let alone used one.
Driveshafts go on and off all the time.
Don't heat them, don't cool them. Just clean the junk off the strap so it seats on the bearing cap. On that subject- the axle side yoke has tabs that the caps must sit inside of- make sure they do, or you will damage the yoke and/ or the straps.
Size of bolts heads are 5/16" - 8mm. Again, never seen a new one.
Torque is "tight" with my hand choking the wrench handle, or using a short wrench. OEM uses thread loc.
-Ron
I have never even seen a new one let alone used one.
Driveshafts go on and off all the time.
Don't heat them, don't cool them. Just clean the junk off the strap so it seats on the bearing cap. On that subject- the axle side yoke has tabs that the caps must sit inside of- make sure they do, or you will damage the yoke and/ or the straps.
Size of bolts heads are 5/16" - 8mm. Again, never seen a new one.
Torque is "tight" with my hand choking the wrench handle, or using a short wrench. OEM uses thread loc.
-Ron
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Got the threads & length wrong - but I've dealt with those even less than I have with the yoke screws anyhow - thanks for the catch!
And what's wrong with SAE hardware? I still think natively on the IPS, not MKS...
(Hell, FFF makes sense to me, once I get my head around it!)
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I like SAE, don't get me wrong. I just like the ISO property class grading system more, since I can use math instead of rote memorization.
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
x2...
ive alway just reinstalled them without much of a second thought. ill usually use a 5/16" 6 point to break them loose, then i have a little 8mm ratchet wrench to zip them off. i have a couple friends who work at offroad shops, and swear its 8mm, ive messed up too many Tcase bolts to listen to that (just one actually, but thats all it takes to ruin your day).
at the yoke... i drilled out the yoke and strap, and intalled through bolts instead of having them threaded into the yoke. i like the through bolts with the strap better than Ubolts.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
8mm and 5/16 are something like 2.5 thousandths of an inch apart. With a good quality 6 point it doesn't matter... with a shit quality one, or a 12 point, or both, it's a day ruiner.
Ask them to throw a thread gauge on the damn bolts and explain why a 1/4-28 threaded reduced head bolt has an 8mm head, eh? Maybe that will get through to them, but probably not.
And I do the same thing... 6 point to break em free, then a gearwrench to spin them out. I don't have all damn day to use a regular box wrench on them.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Funny - removing OEM screws, I just use a 1/4" drive 6-point 5/16" socket on a 3/8" wrench (with adapter) - which clears the knuckle and lets me rip them right off.
A 3/8" drive torque wrench replaced the regular socket wrench for reinstallation, using the correct hex key (1/4"?) for the socket head capscrews I always replace them with. Easy!
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
I chucked them and went to u-bolts when I replaced the leaking yoke.
Oatmeal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cedar City, UT
I talked to my driveshaft guy about replacing the yoke with a u bolt style
and he told me the reason they went to straps is because, with u bolts you
can over tighten them and actually distort the caps out of round and cause
a bind which could lead to premature wear/failure....something to think about!
Hans
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
And you can't with a strap? It may be more difficult, but I'm sure it's still possible.
However, anytime you're dealing with bearing crush, just do the job right. Saves work (and REwork...)
Oatmeal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cedar City, UT
Last edited:
Oatmeal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cedar City, UT
I doubt it, the strap will stretch and bottom out before distorting the cap.
You could keep cranking down tighter and tighter on a u-bolt until you stripped
the threads or nuts.
I've never done it but, some people don't have a "feel" for swinging a wrench.
Hans