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99 XJ 4.0L: Loss of power at low rpms?

wolf2600

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Austin, TX
EDIT: TITLE SHOULD BE "LOW POWER....", NOT REALLY A "LOSS" OF POWER.


I have a 99 XJ Sport, 4.0L 4wd, auto, 130k miles.

Owned it for about 6 months, last month I moved from CA to TX, and have noticed that recently at lower RPMs (<2500), it seems to have lost some power. I'll be on the highway and it'll have problems accelerating unless I blip the throttle and kick it down into a lower gear. At the higher rpms, acceleration is good.

It almost feels like I'm towing a trailer (taking longer to accelerate, etc). It also is taking longer to start in the mornings (3-4 seconds of cranking rather than 1-2 like it used to). When warm, it starts just fine.

Don't know if the problems are related, but I'd like to mainly figure out the power issue.

I replaced the plugs/wires/cap/rotor a couple months ago with an Accel kit I bought. Also had the oil & filter changed and the trans fluid flushed back in November.

I have a code scanner, but no codes are being thrown. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for?

Fuel issues? Torque convertor? Texas gas?

Thanks. :wierd:
 
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Brakes dragging ? Test the fuel pressure, and the TPS. Inspect the condition and fill level of the trans fluid. You are using Dexron-III/Mercon in your AW-4, right ?
 
Last year I had a gradual loss of power and MPG. I didn't think of calipers sticking/dragging because there was no pulling on braking. After a lot of trouble shooting it turned out that both calipers were dragging equally. I had deep grooves in the knuckles where the pads rest. I welded them up and ground the welds down. The rotors had blue hot spots from overheating so I replaced everything: hoses/rotors/calipers and pads. Mileage and power went back up.
 
Brakes dragging ? Test the fuel pressure, and the TPS. Inspect the condition and fill level of the trans fluid. You are using Dexron-III/Mercon in your AW-4, right ?


Not sure which fluid. Took the Jeep to the dealer and had the Up-Country springs (from Quadratec) installed back in November, and had them do a "transmission flush" at that time. So I'm guessing (hoping?) that they used the correct fluid.


You think the TPS could be dirty? What's the best way of testing it? Multimeter?
 
I'd bet they used ATF +4. I don't think Jeep dealers even stock Dexron fluid anymore.

Best wau to test the TPS is an analog meter so you can see the sweep through its full range of motion.
 
It's getting worse. Now taking 2 cranks before starting in the mornings (shut off and start within 1 hour or so, it's fine).

IAC? TPS? CPS? Fuel pump check valve?
 
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Priming it 2x before starting seems to do the trick. Guessing that the loss of power could also be fuel related, and at 130k miles, it might be time to replace the pump and filter.
 
Priming it 2x before starting seems to do the trick. Guessing that the loss of power could also be fuel related, and at 130k miles, it might be time to replace the pump and filter.

Having to "prime it" indicates that you are suffering from "fuel pressure leakdown". Below is more on this. And I'd sure recommend some basic fuel pressure testing as well. For a 99, you should have 49 psi at idle, plus or minus 5 psi. Many parts stores will rent you a fuel pressure gauge inexpensively (or free with a deposit) call around for availability.

Good luck!
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The check valves (there are two of them; the primary one is on the fuel pressure regulator and a secondary one can be found on the fuel pump itself) are part of the fuel pump assembly on 95.5-2001 vintage 4.0 XJs. When a check valve starts to fail, it can reduce fuel pressure to a point where an extended cranking time is needed to start the engine. It is a very common failure. I experienced it on my 99 at around 75K.

A good (and simple) first step in helping you troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”

1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for about 2 seconds. Be sure to wait until it stops running.
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above steps 1-3 two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over

If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have a check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the fuel pressure leaking down and the subsequent stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.

Also be aware that a bad battery can give you starting symptoms as well. Have your battery load tested (any parts store will do this for free) if you have any doubt; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.

Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Many parts stores will rent you this tool inexpensively.

*Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood

*Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.

*Observe fuel pressure gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)

*Shut engine off.

*Observe pressure on gauge. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.

If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, a check valve within the
fuel pump assembly, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose normally included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult the manual that comes with the fuel pressure gauge and the Factory Service Manual for your year XJ for more information on this exact procedure, but here is basically how it works:

*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.

*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank – most likely a check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.

**Note. Where check valve is suspect, a quick loss of fuel pressure is often the fuel pressure regulator check valve and a slow loss of pressure is often the fuel pump check valve. But keep in mind that either or both check valves can be to blame.

You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you like, as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going to fail. Perform the “poor mans prime” before cranking to speed up your starts. However, if you have a check valve issue and want to resolve it, it is recommended that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly for two reasons. First, you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Secondly, with two check valves, replacing just the fuel pressure regulator where one of the check valve resides may or may not resolve your problem; remember there are two check valves; the other check valve is part of the fuel pump.

The fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge sending unit, fuel gauge float, pickup filter and pigtail wiring harness. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality assembly. Know this….you do get what you pay for here. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies have been known to fail prematurely. I personally prefer Bosch fuel pumps as they manufacture the best fuel pump assemblies for the XJ. Carter is my second choice. Airtex is my least favorite choice and I will not recommend or install them. A search will show you why.
 
Anyone able to recommend a brand/model for a replacement fuel pump assembly? Checked with the dealer and an OEM pump is $340 and the filter is $100. :cry:

Rock Auto has several different brands/models listed, but I'm not sure which would be best.
 
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