control arm bolt sizes

yes i searched and searched and came up with many different sizes and many different opinions.
i am about to install my lift in my jeep and want to get these bolts ready because i know i will be cutting out the old ones.
i am going to try to order them from fastenal or get them from ace hardware, but need to know the exact sizes and pitch, quantity and is it fine thread or standard thread? how many do i need of each because some said 6 large bolts 2 small bolts,
so far what i gather from the dealership site which the local dealer says they do not have them for the public. is 4 m14 bolts, 4 m10 bolts, 16 washers, and 8 nuts. can they be regular class 10.9 metric or 8.8 grade?
i dont want to go to the junkyard i want brand new.
i know this has been discussed but i need to find these asap or order them.
thanks for your help!

1998 XJ sport that i named lido
4.0 spinning an AW4 231 transfer case
d30 d44

10.9 is the metric equivalent to SAE Grade 8.
The link Mike posted will have pretty much everything you need.

As long as you have the correct size bolts/matching hardware, metric vs sae does not matter.

the link just shows the lower control arm screws. so what about the upper, and are the bolts that mount to the axle different? unfortunately i cant look my jeep is 200 miles away right now. so all 4 bolts for the lower arm are M14-2.0x110 PC10.9? ok so now i just need to find the upper control arm bolts sizes.

The stock axle side of the UCA is a 10mm bolt. I think that the frame side is same as lowers.

Get an OEM bolt. Look carefully at one. You will see a lot of detail in the design. Shank, head, taper, thread length are are set just right for the front end. The bushings have "bumps" on the inside so they rest on the slightly necked down shank. The shank thickens just before the head and the threads so it rides tightly in the brackets. The head has a large flange to distribute the load better, the shank is radiused going into the head. These details mean a lot in strength. The material is strong like a grade 8 or 10.9 but is more ductile so it wont break nearly as easily.

Expensive as heck at the dealership.
Dirt cheap at the pick n pull
One company offers them at a reasonable price on line (so I was told) dont know the name, I just go to the Pick n Pull.

If you go to an off the shelf bolt go up one size and drill/ream everyting out so it fits real tight. Get a proper radiused washer to go under the head. A good Grade 8 will be radiused between the shank and the head. Make darn sure no threads engage the brackets or you will be welding on a washer in a year where the threads "milled" out the hole.

John

anyone know that website that sells them. i went to another dealership and they told me they cant get them either and dont know the sizes. so i am still lost figuring out what uppers i need also what lowers i need. the link to 5-90s site shows only the upper. but if i have to go to a hardware store i want to be able to know the shank is long enough so the threads dont wollow out the hole. just trying to do this right the first time.

I know you said you want new, but you're gonna have a hard time finding a new metric 10.9 replacement with the proper thread length. I wouldn't hesitate to use a good condition LCA bolt pulled from the JY.

For the uppers axle side, a 3/8" grade 8 can be used or the nubs on the inside of the bushing sleeves can be reamed out to fit a 7/16" bolt for more strength.

Your dealer is FOS, I just bought six new bolts from my local dealer (actually two of them, because neither one had all six in stock) for my rear leaf springs which are the same as the LCA bolts.

Of the four that I removed, only one was reusable - I did not even try to separate the old springs from the shackles after fighting to get the old springs out.

The dealer was actually cheaper than Fastenal for those bolts, believe it or not.

yeah gonna try a third dealer tommorrow after work. if not then i think i will take lurchs advice and get strong hardware store bolts and drill out the center collar which i dont like to do. i am expecting to cut out every bolt up front when i do my lift in a couple weeks. i am trying to get replacement bolts before hand. are local junkyards suck they dont want customers in the yard anymore. i am gonna try a u pull r parts this weekend however they only have 2 cherokees in there yard.

The part numbers for the upper bolts are:
6505153AA - M10x1.50x85 - UCA to Sill mounting bolt
6505154AA - UCA to Axle (no specs listed sorry)


and lower we're listing is
34201334 - M14x2.00x110 hex flange head bolt

IMO, be very careful about the hardware that you use. As nosigma pointed out, these are not your garden variety shoulder bolts.

Poly performance and other vendors carry hardware at decent prices too

If you can't find what you want, I have a 5 gallon bucket full of once used suspension bolts.

Here is a front control arm parts list:

1 11506007 2 NUT, Hex Flange, M10x1.5, UCA
to Sill and Axle, Mounting
2 52087710 2 ARM, Control Upper
3 52038025 2 BUSHING, Control Arm, UCA to
Sill and Axle
4 06505153AA 2 BOLT, M10x1.50x85, UCA to Sill,
Mounting
5 06505154AA 2 BOLT, UCA to Axle, Mounting (I used whatever size fit in the bolt holes)
6 34201334 4 BOLT, Hex Flange Head,
M14x2.00x110, LCA to Clevis
and Axle, Mounting
7 52000532 2 CLEVIS, Lower Suspension Arm,
To Sill
8 52000234 AR SHIM, Control Arm, Caster and
Pinion Angle Adjusting-.9mm Thick
9 52003976 AR SHIM, Pinion Angle, Caster and
Pinion Angle Adjusting-.4mm Thick
10 06101695 4 NUT, Hex Flange Lock, Clevis to
Sill, Mounting
11 11502814 4 NUT, Hex Flange Lock, M14z2,
LCA to Clevis and Axle, Mounting
12 52001162 2 ARM, Control Lower
13 52001161 4 BUSHING, Control Arm Lower

well after checking ace hardware. i brought my new control arm bushings with to check bolt sizes. i need m10x1.5x85 for the upper and m14x2.0x110 for the lower. i put a couple bolts in the holes and they were not tight they were loose as heck. 9/16 fit better for the lower and i am wondering if i should drill out the center collar and install a 1/2 class 8. has anyone tried this or recommand this? 1/2 seems to drill out the little dimples inside the collar for the upper and make it seem tight. is this right or a big no no? also with the metric none of the bolt shanks were long enough, i dont want bolt threads rubbing on the mounts right? any help would be great thanks.