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No spark after engine swap.

Akumachan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Goleta, CA, USA
I just finished putting a long block from a '91 into my '89 and now I'm getting no spark(confirmed with a timing light). I've gone through and checked every connection I can find, and I even took the ignition coil out and checked it with an ohmmeter. Still no spark.

Anyone have any ideas for other things to look into?

On a side note, one of my injectors is now leaking. I have the whole fuel rail from the '91, are the injectors interchangeable?

Thanks for any help.
 
Which flex plate (plate, converter drive) did you use? The 87-90 CPS and the 91-92 CPS use a different flex plate/tone ring (plate converter drive).
 
So, before I go and screw this up again, how do I properly align the old flex plate on the new engine to get the timing right? The fewer times I have to pull the engine the better.
 
Having never done exactly what you are doing, I can only tell you what I'd do in a similar situation. TDC 1 on the old motor, TDC 1 on the new motor and swap the flex plate over in exactly the same way it came off. It may be pointless, the flex plates are only supposed to go on there one way, but if you start from the initial setup, things are less likely to be off. At the same time I'd swap over the distributor and align number "1" on that also. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the old CPS and mark the center between the bolt holes on the old flex plate, it may be too late for you to do this though.

A few basic measurements from the get go and if things don't work out for you, you have less to check. I've read many threads about guys who had issues after swapping motors. And have gone nuts trying to figure out why it doesn't work. I may be wrong, initial setup may be more important than just swapping over the flex plate or it may not, I'm not the sharpest needle in the sewing kit, so I tend to stick with the basic steps I learned in school. I'd treat it just like a new rebuild, less the cam timing. Then if something does go wrong, you know for sure it isn't the initial setup.

If you already have the motor mostly bolted up, it may be easier to unhook the tranny and transfer and slide it back to replace the flex plate. Just be careful to keep the torque converter seated all the way in. The last time I swapped out the same year (actually one year off but same series) engine I gave the torque converter one last shove and twist and it seated another 1/2 inch deeper and made a satisfying thump. I often wondered what the outcome would have been if I hadn't gotten lucky and after reading about the guys who fired up their new motor and the tranny didn't do squat, I tend to think seating the torque converter is important. I loctite all the bolts on the flex plate and torque converter bolts. I use new torque converter to flex plate bolts if available (a holdover from my Dodge days, they always recommended new bolts here) and I use a torque wrench for these.

If you forget to hook up the firewall to engine head ground, things are also doubtful to work out well for you. A lot of guys have forgotten this ground.
 
Thanks for all the tips, it is too late for me with regards to the old flex plate (sitting on the ground next to my old engine, didn't mark either of them...)

I have the engine completely in except the 2 upper bellhouse bolts. What all is involved with unhooking the tranny and T-case? Sounds like it might be a better option, getting the engine in and lined up was really unpleasant.

Thanks for all the help and taking the time for me, and if anyone else has ideas on how to get the old flex plate on correctly please let me know.
 
They say the flex plate only goes on there one way. Having junked my extra motor (I needed the space) I can't go out in the shop, measure a little and swear to this. If the bolt holes aren't equidistant, it is a pretty sure guess the tone ring/flex plate only goes on there one way. But I'm not going to swear to anything I haven't measured and checked myself.
 
yes, the flex plate does NOT need to be indexed or aligned, it just needs to match the CPS that matches the wiring harness on the jeep. if it bolts up you're good.
 
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