Reduce my build list

I am looking to install a quality ~4" lift to use with 33x10.5s.
Primary functions: Daily Driver, Camping, Weekend Trips
Can anyone provide justification for alternatives to decrease the project's cost?

Suspension:

OME 2930 front coils
OME CS033RB leafs
Coil Spacer (~2" spacer or JKS ACOS)
JKS upper control arms
JKS lower control arms
Shackle (JKS or Teraflex)
Shackle relocation bracket (not sure if I'll need depending on OME leaf pack)
OME shocks 60052L and 60053L
Bar pin eliminators (JKS 9604 and 9603)
JKS Adj Trac bar
RE short arm drop bracket
RE short arm drop bracket reinforcement
OME SD40 steering stabilizer
JKS quick disconnect for anti-sway bar

Axles:
Front
regear D30 to 4.10s (have an AX-15)
Detroit TrueTrac
Blue Torch diff cover

Rear
Rebuild a Dana 44 (have a Dana 35 in the rear)
regear to 4.10s (have an AX-15)
Detroit Truetrac
Disc conversion? (haven't researched yet)
Advanced Adpaters SYE and Tom Woods shaft

Tires and Wheels
BFG KM2s
Restore a set of Jeep Turbine wheels (5.25" backspacing)
Spidertrax 1.25" spacers

Ya, search. There are tons of threads that can help you out

Deff. search and instead of the blue torch cover do a solid one their $60 and if your still worried about cost don't buy ome and jks

I have never had a solid diff cover but I have the blue torch fab cover on my dana 30 and it is dank. I had a BTF cover on my 8.25 first. They are mad thick and everything fits perfect. The fill plug is well protected and hardware comes with it. I ordered the DIY kits and welded them together myself.

Also forget 4.10s and go strait to 4.56 gears. I have an ax15/4.56gears and 33x10.5s BFGs and I don't think there is a better combination. I just got done cruising up I-81 in Virginia 75 mph with some steep grades and never have to turn off cruise control. Getting respectable MPGs 17 average, get into the 20s on flat ground. You could also save a few bucks and get an aussie or spartan locker for the rear instead of a full carrier locker. Your stock carriers will hold up just fine to 33s.

Sounds like a good plan to me. Don't make it too complicated for yourself. Good luck!

You didn't list "wheeling" as one of your intended uses.
If "all" you really want to do with it is drive to work and take it on camping trips, you don't need anything on the list except skid plates / diff covers(peace of mind, but I've done a *lot* without them) and decent LT tires - 30" or under. Anything more is nice for 'wheeling but unnecessary to cruise down a Forest Service road and go camping for a weekend.
Justification for alternatives to the full OME / JKS suspension?
Well, if you are going to lift it then the only argument is cost.
If you don't need a lift in the first place... then... cost, again.

yossarian19 said:

You didn't list "wheeling" as one of your intended uses.
If "all" you really want to do with it is drive to work and take it on camping trips, you don't need anything on the list except skid plates / diff covers(peace of mind, but I've done a *lot* without them) and decent LT tires - 30" or under. Anything more is nice for 'wheeling but unnecessary to cruise down a Forest Service road and go camping for a weekend.
Justification for alternatives to the full OME / JKS suspension?
Well, if you are going to lift it then the only argument is cost.
If you don't need a lift in the first place... then... cost, again.

Click to expand...

well said

JKS BPE specifically say they don't work with OME shocks. Otherwise that looks almost identical to my build list. I would look into finding a Dana 30 from a 4cylinder to get the 4.10 gears for the front and an 8.8 for the rear. I have an auto so I am going 4.56 so I didn't have that as an option.

BFG KM2s are good tires but may not be the best choice for a DD if living where snow is an issue. While good in deep snow, their lack of sipping keep them from working well on icy or packed snow surfaces.
You might want a tire with a mountain/snowflake symbol, to eliminate having to use chains as much.
The mountain/snowflake symbol, on the BFG KOs, has allow me to pass through chain-up points, without chaining up, many times on the way to the slopes.

For your expressed usage, 30" tires, with a 2" OME lift and TC drop, should be adequate. For a DD, there is no need to go big and a smaller lift will be more fun to drive and a heck of a lot cheaper to build and maintain.
IMO, 33"s and bigger tires need better brakes for freeway driving, along with regearing and the upgrading of the D30's axles.
It cost a lot of money and time to go big the right way.
If you decide to with the 33"s, include funds for an SYE and a new rear CV drivershaft....more big bucks.
I also note that you have not included any recovery points or skid plates, the first things you should be installing for off-road work.

for 4" lift and 33s and 4.10s/LSDs go this route:

Grab a Junkyard ford 8.8 with factory LSD. Rebuild the clutch packs. Don't run the additive.
for the front grab a 4.10 d30 from the junkyard too. leave it open to start. don't worry about locking it right away. Then instead of a true track, they suck, i ran in them in 2 different front axles over 5 different years, go to a lunchbox locker with only 33s.



for the front, grab 4.5" RE coils from serious off road for 75$. grab some used short arms, OR drop brackets. you wont need both. you can get arms cheap as hell used all the time. I sold a set of RE adjustables for like 80$ , uppers and lowers.

Get a good double shear track bar and bracket of your choice, that will be around 200$ +new total, or get em used for cheaper. the JKS bar and bracket seems legit.

for the rear grab some 3.5" leaves(around 100$ a side) from serious off road and some shackles used locally for around 40$ . I am a cheap skate, that dude has the cheapest prices I've seen for new parts. that being said, I only buy used on pirate or CL or Naxja , I pretty much never buy new.
otherwise stick to craigslist for used parts or your local chapter.

For tires, grab 4 33 MTRs off tire rack. get a cheap 20$ worn tire locally off Clist for a spare. Do not get 1.25 wheel spacers and 5.25 BS, just go with the usual 3.75" BS black steelies. order black cragar soft 8s from summit for cheap.

do the poor mans sway bar quick disco mod with wing nuts, costs around 10$ total, there are multiple write ups.



Don't even bother with an SYE until you get vibes. Proper shimming of the rear axle will get you there, and some washer to get maybe 1/4" t case drop to 1/2" t case drop just to dial in pinion and t case output angles. replace u joints as needed.


for shocks go bilstien 5150s or better front and rear.


what I am proposing will save you a ton of money over what you originally proposed. Enough to probably get some sliders, factory skids from the JY, and some currie steering and more.

Wow, thanks guys. I will reevaluate my NEEDS, WANTS, and consider every post.

Thanks for the insight, critique, and reality check

I have those exact pieces on my rig except I'm running 4.56 gears with 31. I'm runnng no lift shackle relocators with JKS boomerangs in the rear. Skip the BPEs and the drop brackets. Raise your shock mounts in the rear and go with standard travel OMEs. Go with long travel OMEs in front.

This pic is without my skid/hitch/bumper/spare. It sits completely level with those installed.