99xj won't shift out of park

My son's 99xj, 4.0, 4x4 is having trouble shifting out of park. The button on the t-handle will not depress so that it will shift. I have removed the handle to examine the button and it is working fine. The white beaded plastic part that the button depresses appears to be in one piece. I have removed the console cover to visually inspect the shifter assembly and something else must be keeping the metal pin from releasing below the curved metal bracket. I placed a screw driver directly on the pin to see if I could depress it directly and was unable to do so.

After a long time of attempting to shift out of park, I was able to get it to depress/release and then sprayed anything I could imagine might be sticking with a W940 type lubricant. That seemed to do the trick and was able to move it in and out of park with no problem. The next day, I went out to try again and had a little difficulty depressing the button on the first try but it then released and I shifted it out of park and into drive several times before it locked up again in the park position. I have not been able to get it to release again.

Any suggestions on what may be the problem?

I should also add that I am pressing the brake when attempting to get it out of park.

Look here: http://www.naxja.net/forum/showthread.php?p=243705395#post243705395

Start at post 6 and go from there.

HTH

Thanks, I did see post #7 previously. I missed the second part of past #6, though. Not sure I am following all the steps in 7. Do I have to be concerned about the position of the key (lock vs run) while making the adjustment? Have you performed this adjustment before?

Mine will do that when it is cold outside and haven't let the XJ warm up enough. I'm going to check out that post later and see if I can fix it. It's very annoying when you're late for work.

mgmccollum said:

Do I have to be concerned about the position of the key (lock vs run) while making the adjustment?

Click to expand...

I believe so.

mgmccollum said:

Have you performed this adjustment before?

Click to expand...

No -- that's why I tried to find posts from people who have.

I hope this doesn't add to the confusion, but there are several interlocks with the AW4.

1. The transmission must be in Park in order to extract the ignition key.

2. The transmission must be in Park or Neutral in order to start the engine.

3. The brake pedal must be depressed in order to shift from Park.

My understanding is as follows:

Interlock (1) is handled by the interlock cable between the shifter and the steering column.

Interlock (2) is handled by the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch).

I'm off to look at my FSM to see how interlock (3) is implemented.

OK, I found out how the brake interlock works. Basically it is electrical and depends on a circuit that's in the brake switch.

The position of the brake switch is adjustable and needs to be set so when the pedal is released the plunger of the switch is depressed by the brake pedal arm.

Look here starting with post #5:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64856

More info with photos -- see post 6:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1081305

Thanks for the help, HappyDog.

I'll check it out and let you know what I am able to figure out.

Do you know where the other end of the interlock cable goes? Sounds from the other posts that you referenced that it is connected in some way to depressing the break. Is that the case?

mgmccollum said:

Do you know where the other end of the interlock cable goes?

Click to expand...

It goes to the steering column right next to the ignition switch. It is what prevents you from removing your key unless the shifter is in Park.

The FSM calls this cable the BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK MECHANISM

Here's the description:

The Brake Transmission Shifter/Ignition Interlock (BTSI), is a cable and solenoid operated system. It interconnects the automatic transmission floor
mounted shifter to the steering column ignition switch. The system locks the shifter into the PARK position. The Interlock system is engaged whenever the ignition switch is in the LOCK or ACCESSORY position. An additional electrically activated feature will prevent shifting out of the PARK position unless the brake pedal is depressed at least one-half an inch. A magnetic holding device in line with the park/brake interlock cable is energized when the ignition is in the RUN position. When the key is in the RUN position and the brake pedal is depressed, the shifter is unlocked and will move into any position. The interlock system also prevents the ignition switch from being turned to the LOCK or ACCESSORY position unless the shifter is fully locked into the PARK position.

Thanks for the description of the BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK MECHANISM. It would appear to me then that is somehow the culprit. The one link you sent earlier had the step by step instructions on adjusting this interlock cable, but I don't see how adjusting it will solve my problem. Do you think that is what I need to do, or is there another way to both troubleshoot and fix? Thanks.

The interlock cable does double duty -- it prevents the key from being removed unless the shifter is in Park, and it prevents the shifter from being moved from Park unless the brake is applied.

This latter function is controlled by a solenoid near the ignition switch. The first thing to do is make sure the circuit to the solenoid is working -- that it has power when the brake is applied.

Let me look up the schematic -- I'll post more later.

Executive summary:

The inability to shift from Park is due to one of the following possibilities:
1. The Brake Transmission Shift Interlock cable is improperly adjusted
2. The Shift Lock Solenoid is not operating properly

You already know how to adjust the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock cable and I trust you have done so.

The most common failure of the Shift Lock Solenoid is not the solenoid itself, the the energizing circuit. Things to check are
1. The fuse
2. The brake switch adjustment
3. The brake switch circuit

Be aware I have a 1997 and a 2001, not a 1998. I went to both manuals (1997 and 2001) to find out how the brake interlock solenoid is activated and what circuits are used -- they are the same in both the 1997 and the 2001, so your son's 1998 is likely to be the same also.

The circuit is powered by fuse 25 in the junction box -- the fusebox in the front passenger footwell. This same fuse also powers the heater blower motor and the AC Heater control, so if the blower motor works the fuse is good and the circuit has power.

Power runs from Fuse 25 to the Shift Lock Solenoid, and from there to the Brake Switch terminal 1. This switch is normally closed and when closed connects terminal 1 to terminal 2. Terminal 2 is always connected to ground.

So the troubleshooting process is to
1. Make sure the interlock cable is properly adjusted.

2. Make sure Fuse 25 is good. Turn on the blower motor -- if it turns on, the fuse is good.

3. Make sure the brake switch is properly adjusted

4. Make sure there is battery voltage at terminal 1 when the brake pedal is released, and 0 volts when depressed. The switch has 6 terminals all in a line, and pin 6 is always battery voltage. So if you are always seeing battery voltage perhaps you are probing pin 6 instead of 1.

If you find you are not ever seeing 0 volts even when you are sure you are probing pin 1 then you need to check the ground connection.

HappyDog:

You are amazing. Thanks for all of the information. You've given me plenty to work on tomorrow. Thanks so much.

Went out this morning and had no trouble shifting out of park. Blower works so fuse is good.
The interlock cable appears to be adjusted correctly. I haven't physically done anything to it other than spray it with lubricant last weekend.
Visual inspection of the brake pedal indicates the pin is releasing from the box in front of the pedal arm. Is that the location of the brake solenoid?
Also wondering if the lubricant I sprayed last week could have had an effect on the interlock cable.
Someone else posted they were having difficulty when it is cold. Last week was about the same temp as this weekend, but it was sitting in the sun as opposed to being in the garage last weekend. Any chance temp could be playing a part?
Any thoughts? A little stumped at this point.

Went back and reread your posts, and the box that has the plunger that comes out of it is the brake switch. Correct?