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occasional hesitation when starting and accelerating

br1anstorm

NAXJA Forum User
Location
United Kingdom
My 1993 (so not a Renix) XJ 4.0 auto is now 21 years old, 145k miles. Like the owner, it's beginning to show its age - it creaks, and it leaks, and it doesn't like the damp and cold!

I'll skip the catalogue of ailments (mine and the Jeep's!) and focus on just one. A search of the forum suggests it's a very common problem and like so many, could have any one of numerous causes. So I apologise for posting a thread on an issue which has been raised many times before. But here goes with the symptoms:

- 98% of the time it starts and runs fine;
- but occasionally when trying to start (sometimes first-off, other times when stopped after a run) it won't fire instantly. Needs a bit of cranking with gas pedal flat to the floor, and after 5-10 secs it fires up and runs, sometimes after a brief stutter;
- now just recently, it has begun a different misbehaviour, which may or may not be related;
- after being stopped at junction or lights (engine idling), when I accelerate to pull away, engine briefly almost dies, as if to stall, but then picks up and runs normally. It feels either like sudden fuel starvation or an ignition problem, and only happens out on the road when I press the gas pedal quite hard from low-revs/idling . In traffic this can be a tad disconcerting!
- I can't get the problem to show when sitting on the drive in neutral (ie no load): the engine revs cleanly from idle. It also picks up cleanly under hard acceleration in any gear on the road.
- it's wintertime now, damp and cold. I don't know if the problem will happen in summer (we'll have to wait and see).

Meanwhile I'm trying to narrow down the possible sources of the problem. Fuel pressure at rail is fine, and I don't think it's dirty fuel. My nonexpert guess is that it is more likely to be an ignition (or electronic sensor signal?) issue. The ignition coil was replaced less than a year ago after the original failed (at that time suspicion fell first on the CPS which we swapped out, only to find that the original CPS was OK). It had new spark plugs a month or two ago. Plug wires are original but clean.The Optima battery is fine. Last week it passed the UK emissions test well within limits so it isn't running rich or misfiring.

I tried looking at the 'Check engine' flashing-light diagnostic codes (OBD-1 is all I have on the 93 model) and - if I read the codes right - it seemed to flash 12 (=battery previously disconnected, which will have been true many times), and 17 (=engine running cool, perhaps not surprising in winter though the gauge usually gets up to normal temp pretty quickly). I know codes aren't a guaranteed clue, but this suggests that there's no other major sensor-type failure.

Now I don't want to push the parallels with the owner too far. I too occasionally have problems getting started in the mornings, and have been known to stumble when out on the road. But what do I look at next.... on the Jeep?
 
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor should be replaced every 30,000 miles. You've only done the plugs and the wires are original? I would put Napa Premium cap, rotor, and wires on before going into "sensor territory".
 
Remove your throttle body and clean it well. I was getting the same type of hesitation that you are describing off the line and I cleaned all the gunk off the throttle body blades and it eliminated the problem. The make special sensor safe cleaner specific for the job.
 
Thanks cruiser54 and others. That post on another form which you linked to, about cleaning out the throttle body is excellent - pics and all.

My only question is whether it's possible to clean it out to some extent without having to remove and dismantle it all. Not that I'm lazy - but there's a law which says that sometimes when you dismantle an assembly of parts, something small, cheap and nasty but hard to replace like a cable-clip or spring breaks, or you get a nut or bolt left over.....! Don't some folks just squirt cleaning-stuff down the hole?

Anyway, it looks like the next steps in trying to cure the problem are mapped out for me. Will report back in due course.
 
I agree with the others.

You replaced plugs, but original wires/145k on a 93? They gotta go! As well as the distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter. Then see where you are at.

Cleaning the idle air control and throttle body never a bad idea. More on that below.

The code 17 can sometimes be related to a marginal thermostat. What is the history of routine "cooling system maintenance" ie: when was the last time the coolant and thermostat were replaced? With cooling system maintenance, it's "pay me now or pay me a lot more later".....

Good luck!
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The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Reinstall IAC and check idle quality
 
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My 96 had a hot start issue and a stumble that sounds identical. It was the coolant temp sensor. It was giving a false reading causing a rich condition on restart - I had to hold the pedal to the floor. Fuel pressure, IAC, TPS, all tune-up parts checked good. I noticed the electric fan wasn't turning on when it should have - the sensor was reading cooler temps than it should have been. You can check it with a DMM.
I searched here and found a few guys having problems with one of the Napa replacement parts and went with the O'Reilly's part - not sure that helps in your part of the world.
Hope this helps.
 
Okay okay guys - new wires, distributor cap and rotor all ordered! Fuel filter was replaced about a year ago so that should still be good.

My approach to working on the Jeep tends to vary between the "prevention is better than cure", and the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" philosophy. In this case I won't argue about changing the parts and cleaning the IAC/throttle body - the detailed advice is very helpful.

Oh yes, on the cooling system there's a story, which I think I posted on this forum a year or two ago. The original radiator rusted away and I replaced it - so obviously I flushed, cleaned and refilled the coolant. I suppose I ought to check the coolant temp sensor - will need to find details on what and where to take the meter readings. At present (wintertime) the engine temp sits rock-steady at the normal point on the gauge. It's hard to hear if/when the normal fan-clutch kicks in, and the electric one rarely does so unless I run the a/c.

The list of work-to-do is getting longer.... and I still have to replace the sagging roofliner too!
 
Time for an update. First, thanks to all those who suggested I should clean the throttle body/IAC. Armed with the link cruiser54 gave to a write up with pics, and that step-by-step from birchlakeXJ, I took it all off and cleaned it up. After 145k miles it was fairly filthy. Now all clean and shiny and back in place.

While waiting for new distributor cap/rotor and plug wires to arrive (I have to order all parts, can't just go to the nearest autoparts chainstore over here in UK), I have cleaned up the distributor and rotor contacts. They didn't seen too badly pitted or worn, but a quick rubdown with sandpaper will have done no harm.

Jeep seems to run OK. But I'd still like to check out the code 17 and Ronbo's comment about his problem:

"It was the coolant temp sensor. It was giving a false reading causing a rich condition on restart - I had to hold the pedal to the floor. Fuel pressure, IAC, TPS, all tune-up parts checked good. I noticed the electric fan wasn't turning on when it should have - the sensor was reading cooler temps than it should have been. You can check it with a DMM."

I don't think my electric fan ever comes on except when running the A/C. The obvious question: how to test the coolant temp sensor with a multimeter? On my Jeep the coolant temp sensor is in the thermostat housing (I believe there is a separate temp sender elsewhere for the gauge). Presume I have to take a reading when coolant is cold, and then another one when engine is hot. Exactly what readings should I get?
 
Found an answer to my own questions after hunting through the forums. Apparently when you check the coolant temp sensor with a multimeter (set to measure resistance) you should get readings like....

at 104 deg F (40 deg C) (ie engine cold) : 4,900-5750 ohms
at 212 F (100 C): 640-720 ohms;
at 248 F (120 C): 370-410 ohms.

Mine checked out good, so I don't know why the check-engine code says the engine is, or was, running cool. Just thought other forum readers might like to know those figures.

Anyway, a thorough cleanup of the throttle body and of distributor contacts has worked wonders. Even without replacing dist cap and plug wires, the engine in my Jeep now runs sweet as a nut. No hesitation, no starting problems, no unevenness. Clearly everyone should do that throttle body cleaning when the mileage gets over the 100k if not before...
 
Found an answer to my own questions after hunting through the forums. Apparently when you check the coolant temp sensor with a multimeter (set to measure resistance) you should get readings like....

at 104 deg F (40 deg C) (ie engine cold) : 4,900-5750 ohms
at 212 F (100 C): 640-720 ohms;
at 248 F (120 C): 370-410 ohms.

Mine checked out good, so I don't know why the check-engine code says the engine is, or was, running cool. Just thought other forum readers might like to know those figures.

Anyway, a thorough cleanup of the throttle body and of distributor contacts has worked wonders. Even without replacing dist cap and plug wires, the engine in my Jeep now runs sweet as a nut. No hesitation, no starting problems, no unevenness. Clearly everyone should do that throttle body cleaning when the mileage gets over the 100k if not before...

The throttle body cleaning is recommended every 30,000 miles along with plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
 
Don't rule out fuel starvation just because you have good pressure at idle. As you accelerate it needs a lot more fuel. You might have a plugged fuel filter. The old test is to disco the fuel line and run it into a container. Turn on the key and see if it give a good stream. Somewhere in one of the FSM's I saw a spec for the test, but I just eyeball it.
 
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