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UPGRADING CRAP BDS ARMS- NEED JOHNNY JOINT SIZES

bcmaxx

bcmaxx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
The West Kootenays,B.C. Canada
Can anyone help me out with what size johnny joints fit the xj lower arms, and body side upper pockets? thanks!!!!
 
I'm pretty sure it's the 2.5" johnny joint, mounting width 2 5/8", 1.25-12 threads, for the lowers.
Uppers are going to be the 2" johnny joints.
If I'm wrong, somebody chime in...
 
great infor thank! for bolt sizes do they just come with standard bolt size holes? like 1/2 top 9/16 lowers?
 
I think the tops, depending on who's joint you buy, you can get 1/2 or 12mm as optional. I don't know which bolts are factory, I think it's 10mm top 14mm bottom.

Currie, the original / actual "johnny joint" runs a 7/16 bolt top and 9/16 lower. Rusty's uses the same bolts. Ballistic runs a 1/2 top and either 9/16 or 5/8 lower, your choice.

I couldn't find what thread sizes your BDS kit uses for joints, so you'll have to measure and double check.

You might be able to replace the joints with 1.25" Ruffstuff heims, which people seem to like really well. I've never used any of this stuff and have no real opinion beyond liking to be able to rebuild a joint instead of replace.
Best of luck.
 
cool man ! I'll be using genuine currie johnny joints after much reading and research. heard not so good things about running heims, and I'd rather have less maintanance, as id I replace the bds crap bushings at very least 2-3 times a year. If the joint fits one end thats a bonus, but I fully expect to have to buy threaded bung inserts and have them welded .
 
Hmm. If BDS uses the OEM style bushings in their arms, you shoudl be able to press in a "builder" joint from Currie or whoever else.
 
only on one end, the other is thei version of a johhny joint. But I'd rather do both ends now with johnny joints
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I think the 2" johnny joints should fit your uppers & the 2.5" your lowers if I'm understanding the situation correctly.
 
Heims are unbelievable noisy for all that they work wonders. So much so that I am considering replacing my chassis end joints with something that absorbs noise.

And yes, I realize that the suspension articulation will be compromised...
 
ok I'm scrapping the BDS crap..dont want it on my Jeep anymore ( thats another story) whats best link material/ wall thickness? looking at dom 1.75" od with .5" wall uppers and 2.0" od with .5" wall lowers. Good enough?
 
I think you want 2" x .25" wall. It's more common and leaves you able to run a 1.25" shank, which seems to be the standard for lower control arms.
I really would just replace the bushings with flex joints if it were my car. I mean, I say this but I admit I don't know the full situation.
Why you want to build new ones now? Almost definitely more work / expense than just putting some flex joints in the BDS arm.
 
1.75x0.5 is way overkill for uppers, I run a 1.75x0.120 for the UCA in my 3 link. 2x0.5 is fine, you'll be able to drill and tap the ends for an end to thread it. I use 2.25x0.375 with inserts for my lowers, I could of gotten away with 2x0.25 since mine are mid arms.
 
Just FYI, the drill size for 1.25-12 threads is 1 11/64, IIRC, and it's a $65 drill bit. Dunno what the shank size was on that monster. So for most of the guys on this board, I think it's a job to take to the machine shop, or go with the common weld-in bung sizes.
 
morse taper?
I suspect I'm going to learn what that is in the coming semester.
Care to spoil the mystery, though?
 
foxwar71 said:
1.75x0.5 is way overkill for uppers, I run a 1.75x0.120 for the UCA in my 3 link. 2x0.5 is fine, you'll be able to drill and tap the ends for an end to thread it. I use 2.25x0.375 with inserts for my lowers, I could of gotten away with 2x0.25 since mine are mid arms.
Click to expand...

tube ordered, went with 1/2 inch wall why not? will be using threaded weld in inserts x 6. bds let me down huge.

I have been going back and forth for years, replacing bushings twice a year, they send me a prototype set last year and they lasted the whole season, but shot again now. I contacted them to see if they would warranty the arms and replace them with their new upgraded arms with upgraded flex joints. but they wont. best they could offer is some credit towards a long arm setup....complete b.s. to me. So I pretty much want their crap of my jeep... they can take their no BS, NO FINE PRINT warranty and stick it... I'll try and resell my arms after I rebuild them again. They will work well on a daily driver or something that doesnt use so much suspension travel.
 
bcmaxx said:
tube ordered, went with 1/2 inch wall why not? will be using threaded weld in inserts x 6. bds let me down huge.
Click to expand...

What size joints will you be using then? Sounds like they're gonna have to be smaller then my liking since you can't fit too large of an insert in those 0.5" wall tubes.
 
1 inch thread uppers and 1/1/4 inch thread lowers


NARROW 2" FORGED JOHNNY JOINT® W/ 1" RH THREAD & 1/2" x 2" BALLand


2 1/2" FORGED JOHNNY JOINT® W/ 1 1/4" RH THREADED STUD
 
bcmaxx said:
1 inch thread uppers and 1/1/4 inch thread lowers


NARROW 2" FORGED JOHNNY JOINT® W/ 1" RH THREAD & 1/2" x 2" BALLand


2 1/2" FORGED JOHNNY JOINT® W/ 1 1/4" RH THREADED STUD
Click to expand...

So a 1 1/4 shank uses an insert for 1.5" ID tube. Your 2x0.5" tubing has a 1" ID.

1" shank uses like a 1.25" ID insert. The 1.75x0.5" has a 3/4" ID.


What's your plan? Bore the ends of the tubing out to fit the inserts?
 
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