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Cat questions......

solomon7

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland OR
I have a 96 and am looking for a new cat to replace my rattly one.
I call an exhaust shop and they said since I have a 96 that it's obd2 and needs a heavier load cat that pre 95 XJs.
They said if it's a 96 and it has a o2 sensor on the cat then it's obd2.

I've always used the Off On Off On trick to get my codes to flash. I.e. 12, 55 means I'm all good. If I can do th ekey trick to get codes then doesn't that mean I have obd1?
I ask because obd1 cats are cheaper apparently.
They said obd2 XJs need a heavier cat or it won't handle the load.

Can someone enlighten me as to this confusion and possibly recommend a cat that won't cost me 240 to put in?
 
If your Jeep is OBD-II there will be an OBD plug right above the hood latch release cable. What's your Jeep's build date?

This is a Wrangler but yours will be in the same spot and look the same.

IMG_7909.jpg
 
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Thanks lowrange2.
It has 1 of those but it pulls OBD1 codes not obd2.
Also I've read the Key on off on off on trick only works with obd1. For obd2 you hold down the odometer peg and read codes from the mileage display, not from the CEL like my car does.
I'm confused.
All I"m reading says I have obd2 but when I key on off on off on I get 12 then 55. OBD2 codes don't even start till 30.
I do have the bastard crossover year and it was made in january.

Is there really that much of a dif between pre 96 and post cats?
 
Thanks lowrange2.
It has 1 of those but it pulls OBD1 codes not obd2.
Also I've read the Key on off on off on trick only works with obd1. For obd2 you hold down the odometer peg and read codes from the mileage display, not from the CEL like my car does.
I'm confused.
All I"m reading says I have obd2 but when I key on off on off on I get 12 then 55. OBD2 codes don't even start till 30.
I do have the bastard crossover year and it was made in january.

Is there really that much of a dif between pre 96 and post cats?

I think 96 may still have some OBD1 programming perhaps 96 has an OBD1 instr. cluster for pulling codes?

Not sure of the reason for OBD1 codes. 96 was a year for changing from OBD1 to OBD2, there were hybrids around 96 ... some OBD1 programming may still exist in the PCM and/or instrument cluster.

There were more changes in 97, related to OBD2, the instrument cluster, TCM, PCM, etc.

First find out what your OE cat part number is. This would be a direct fit OE cat, you can then cross it to an aftermarket type such as OBD2, etc.

Some OBD1 cats that use metal cores are actually considered stronger, longer lasting than ceramic OBD2 cores.

Call the OE parts dept and/or find a parts site where you can input your vin ... it should be able to locate a part number and cat type for your vehicle.

Rock auto sites has always been accurate locating parts for my vehicles. www.rockauto.com should provide you with several cat part numbers. If there is a discrepancy between a vehicles manufacturing date & month ... this information is normally stipulated in the part description. Sometimes OE part numbers are inluded in the part descriptions.

Another site that has a large selection of cat converters OBD1 and OBD2 is http://performance-curve.com .... you can e-mail or call them and ask about a cat for your vehicle. Some of their universal obd2 cats come with an o2 sensor bung already installed. Direct fit cats, normally more expensive than universal types also have the o2 bung installed are designed to fit OE exhaust pipes and oe mufflers.

As for the codes, if you have an OBD2 connector OBD2 codes can be pulled from an OBD2 code scanner.
 
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Awesome info man, thanks!
So I guess next question would be recommendations.

I was looking at this one http://performance-curve.com/2goerlichcatalyticconverterobdii608214-1-2-1.aspx

or this one http://performance-curve.com/25goerlichcatalyticconverterobdii608226.aspx

I like the first one but it doesn't have heat shielding and I don't think my Xj does on the tub either so I'm leaning toward the second. My only concern is flow.
As long as it's better than stock I'm good.

I'm open to other recommendations as well....
 
Awesome info man, thanks!
So I guess next question would be recommendations.

I was looking at this one http://performance-curve.com/2goerlichcatalyticconverterobdii608214-1-2-1.aspx

or this one http://performance-curve.com/25goerlichcatalyticconverterobdii608226.aspx

I like the first one but it doesn't have heat shielding and I don't think my Xj does on the tub either so I'm leaning toward the second. My only concern is flow.
As long as it's better than stock I'm good.

I'm open to other recommendations as well....

Search cherokeeforum.com I remember seeing some cat recommendations from a thread on their website.

One recommendation for a high flow ... There was another thread with three different cat recommendations ...

during checkout if you enter CHEROKEEFORUM you can get a 5% discount on your order ...

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/our-most-popular-high-flow-catalytic-converter-45340/

This one is described as a high flow converter using ceramic core with a 400 hole count.

http://performance-curve.com/425250.aspx

____

The one with the shielding appears to be similar to a stock OBD2 converter.

I am uncertain about the non shielded converter whether its metallic or ceramic core, high flow, etc. (described as heavily loaded.)

Metallic converters are know to be more heat resistant than ceramic core convs. and may be used where there is high heat such as next to the exhaust manifold.

You might e-mail them and ask about the hole count and whether the converter is considered to be high flow, uses a metal or ceramic core. (metal cores are known to last longer than ceramic cores and used on obd1 vehicles)

OBD2 converters often use a ceramic core with a 400 hole count.

High flow converters may have a smaller hole count as low as 150 .... for some vehicles are used as mini pre-converters.
 
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hit up rockauto.com and see what it will cost you off there. I am seeing an Eastern Catalytic #10150 for $98 that would almost certainly work for you, it's slightly more expensive than their other one which is listed as not having an O2 sensor bung.

Not legal in NY or CA, but you aren't in either of those states so you should be fine.
 
Here is a direct fit OBD2 converter ....

I think the price went up a a few dollars, I remember the price being $99.00 with the 5% discount code.

The original retail price is over $300.00 ..

http://performance-curve.com/642311-converter-1-1.aspx

For application look up, specifications, other exhaust parts, etc. see ... http://www.apexhaust.com/

Direct fit you should be able to fit OE and direct fit exhaust parts together at home without welding, modifications, reducers, etc.

The Performance Curve website also has exhaust clamps, plus other parts such as tubing - straight, mandrel bended, connectors, reducers, o2 bungs, flanges, straight pipe with o2 bung already welded, etc. for those wanting to do their own exhaust repairs and modifications.
 
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Different terms found while trying to purchase and service catalytic converters. High flow, Heavy metal - heavy loaded, OBD-II, OBD-I, metal core, ceramic core, etc. What do these terms mean?

After searching I was able to find little information from one website, about the different terminology used while trying to find a converter. Most detailed information seems to be spotty a best, coming from users of different forums.

Here are a couple of links, with some information from one source about catalytic converters. (Since I don't know much about catalytic converters I am unable to condone or vouch for the accuracy of this or any other information coming from elsewhere.)

http://www.ebay.com/gds/What-you-need-to-know-about-choosing-a-converter-/10000000002569538/g.html

http://www.bearriverconverters.com/index.aspx



High Flow Converter

This term has been misused and abused. Standard converters use a ceramic catalyst with cell densities of 400 cpi or higher. True high flow converter will use ceramic or metal substrates with 300 cpi or lower.

Heavy Metal or Heavy Load

This term is somewhat misleading. It indicates that the converter has higher loading than many other 49 state products, but does not tell you how much loading or of what type. Typically these converter have increased cerium or zirconia contents, which can sometime help prevent catalyst related codes, but this is mostly a marketing keyword.

OBD-II or Designed for OBD-II

This means the converter has increased cerium or zirconia content. This is required for proper OBD-II operation, however, it is mostly a marketing tool used to convince the customer that the product will work on their car. These converters are ok for some applications, but lack the proper precious metal content and coating methods to resolve the more difficult applications.

ECO-II

Converter bearing this tag contain elevated precious metal and cerium or zirconia. The current generation ECO-II catalysts have increased rhodium and palladium coatings for proper function on most OBD-II equipped vehicles. Unlike the vague terms used by other companies, this term tells you what kind of catalyst you are getting. Converter containing this catalyst will bear a green sticker and have a green dot on the substrate.

ECO-III

This designation is similar to ECO-II, but has a higher rhodium content for increased efficiency. This catalyst is used for difficult applications when other products may not work. This catalyst is most often used on 2003 and newer applications, especially those that have known histories of problems. Converters containing this type of catalyst will bear an orange sticker and will have an orange dot on the substrate.

ECO-GM

This is a special catalyst designed for popular GM application. Many GM cars have special requirements that make most aftermarket converters unsuitable. These converters feature advanced washcoats that closely mimic the original equipment loading. These converters are designed specifically for the 2.2L, 3.1L, 3.4L and 3.8L GM engines. Converters bearing this designation should not be used on other applications. Converters containing this type of catalyst will have a purple sticker and will have a purple dot on the substrate.
 
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I had no idea the cores were color coded, though I assume that burns off after first use.

Good to know, thanks.
 
thanks again wsxjeep and nice find kastein! That cat may be what I'm goin after.

Gonna call rockauto n see what flow rate it has but I think that's the route I'm going unless someone convinces me otherwise. it says high Flow design but no holes count...on hold with rockauto........:speepin:
 
My 96 is OBD2. Have changed cats 3 times in its life -so far- 384,000.
I have been using the Walker Direct-fit cats. No problems with the fit or function.
I would suggest changing the rear O2 sensor at the same time...an air hammer to remove the cat seems to up-set the old sensor :dunno:

Build date on my 96 was 12/95.....would that be early ?
 
I was wrong mine's build date is February 96.
I was looking at the Walker but want to know more about the materials and construction of the Eastern 10150.
Still searching but can't find much. I suck at searching though lol.
 
I was wrong mine's build date is February 96.
I was looking at the Walker but want to know more about the materials and construction of the Eastern 10150.
Still searching but can't find much. I suck at searching though lol.

So your thinkin you need a 95 cat?

You have to remember the original OE cat was a pellet type. I use to have a pellet cat ... the exhaust shop replaced it with a honeycomb type.

After searching around on a "slower than dialup" service, I found some OE part numbers ..

MJ, XJ SERIES; 4.0L; FEDERAL
Part #5083054AD replaces: 5083054AA, 5083054AB, 52019480AD

These part number are for 96 and 97 ...

However, there was no part number for a 95 Sport XJ 4.0L. The Mopar site shows the converter has been discontinued.

The OE cats aren't cheap, perhaps outsourced from an exhaust parts manufacture .... their asking 400+ to 500+ dollars ... plus a 200 dollar core charge bringing the total to 600+ to 700+ dollars.

California converters are different and have other options. Their cats need to be stamped with a serial number from the manufacture, where the serial number needs to match the vehicle.
 
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Far as I'm concerned, if it doesn't set off the CEL and doesn't cause excess emissions readings on the sniffer, I don't care what the seller says about it, I just find the specs interesting.

I've never had CEL (probably P0420, catalyst below efficiency threshold) issues with any aftermarket cat on any jeep I've put one on. Hell, I ran a 92 cat in a 92 with a 98 engine and engine management system (including the OEM specced downstream O2 sensor, mounted normally, no non fouler tricks or simulators, I'm not a fan of those) and never had a problem with it. How many years will that last? I don't know, but at ~90 each, a new cat once a year will take 6-7 years to cost more than an OEM one once.
 
hit up rockauto.com and see what it will cost you off there. I am seeing an Eastern Catalytic #10150 for $98 that would almost certainly work for you, it's slightly more expensive than their other one which is listed as not having an O2 sensor bung.

Not legal in NY or CA, but you aren't in either of those states so you should be fine.

On that one the outlet/downstream diameter is 2.325". That mean it should slide over the 2.25" muffler's inlet?

I've been loking at this one: http://performance-curve.com/25goerlichcatalyticconverterobdii608226.aspx
It's looks to be very well made and all the shops I've called here use AP.
It's outlet is 2.5" though. From there it'll be hokking up to a 2.25" Flowmaster.
Is there a way to make it work with minimal "labor cost" from the shop that'll be doing the welding?
 
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Thanks for all your help guys.
Replaced the cat with an AP one from performance curve.
The old cat was broken up inside and half the outlet was clogged.

With the new cat, no valve tap at idle, I got back 3mpg (averaged over 3 tanks)
and all the power I thought I lost due to engine mileage.
Now at the same rpms (level highway) that held me at 55mph now puts me over 63.
Jeep feels like the day i bought it again.
 
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