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Does these numbers look right?

Demonoid369

Demonoid369

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Salem, OR
Took it to get the front aligned and these are the results
asa4avav.jpg

He's saying camber and castor is non adjustable? Just making sure he's not trying to half ass/speed it through since its close to closing time.
97' all stock suspension and arms. 2.5" lift 31"s
 
caster is adjusted via the lower control arms on the frame side mount. loosen and turn the 2 bolts at the back of the mount to move the control arm more toward the front of the vehicle. camber I don't this is adjustable unless u go to an offset ballstud on the top or even the top and bottom.
 
JEEPERDK said:
caster is adjusted via the lower control arms on the frame side mount. loosen and turn the 2 bolts at the back of the mount to move the control arm more toward the front of the vehicle. camber I don't this is adjustable unless u go to an offset ballstud on the top or even the top and bottom.
Click to expand...

So he lied about the castor then... Little bastard. I knew I remembers that they were adjustable to an extent, I watched the whole time and he never did touch my control arms
 
your numbers look good, at least as good as you can expect in a modified 15 year old vehicle.

caster is good. you can dial in more, but with a lifted cherokee, more castor can translate to driveline vibes. but your within range. spend $10 on an angle finder and adjust it yourself in the driveway instead of taking it to the shop every time.

camber, i wouldnt worry about camber. you cant adjust it without getting adjustable BJs. if yours are in good condition, i wouldnt worry about it.

toe needs to be adjusted. you can do that in your driveway, by yourself, with a tape measure and a couple jack stands.




google, and you will find that you can do your own alignment, with minimal tools, in any parking spot.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
your numbers look good, at least as good as you can expect in a modified 15 year old vehicle.

caster is good. you can dial in more, but with a lifted cherokee, more castor can translate to driveline vibes. but your within range. spend $10 on an angle finder and adjust it yourself in the driveway instead of taking it to the shop every time.

camber, i wouldnt worry about camber. you cant adjust it without getting adjustable BJs. if yours are in good condition, i wouldnt worry about it.

toe needs to be adjusted. you can do that in your driveway, by yourself, with a tape measure and a couple jack stands.




google, and you will find that you can do your own alignment, with minimal tools, in any parking spot.
Click to expand...

I've read the write up, even go jeeps. But sadly that was what looks to have lead to my horribly toe out axle lol
If I punched a spot on both knuckles and measured it, in theory couldn't I, when lifted higher, just use those marks and adjust back to that original measurement?
 
im not quite seeing what you mean. so... maybe?

i personally use two jack stands to do toe. i put them in front of and behind the passenger side as adjusting the tie rod will usually move the drivers side tire, not the passengers. i line the jack stands up with the tire center line, and use that to hold the tape for me, as i measure to the center line of the other axle. just make sure the jack stands are on center each time you measure, and that you keep your tape as level as possible.
 
You know how people will punch dots on the bearing caps in the diff to know what side/orientation they are suppose to be on? Same concept as punching a dot on to both knuckles where the steering components attach, then measuring from one punched dot to the other. Get what I'm saying? Lol I suck at technical names.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
problem is that you want to measure toe at the outside of the tire, at the center line... if you have good toe on say a 31, bolting on 35s will result in a more toe'ed in measurement.
Click to expand...

Oh ok that makes more sense, damn and here I thought I figured out how to simplify it more lol

Curious though, since this axle is sticking at 31"s and they will always be 10.5" wides, could the punching marks on to the knuckle arms work?
 
Last edited:
XJs are supposed to have a very slight toe in. He adjusted it to effectively 0, this will lead to more wander doing down the road. Caster is totally adjustable...

I'd take your rig to another shop in the future. For now, the caster is just fine, set the toe in a little bit (adjusting sleeve on drag link) and off you go.
 
Demonoid369 said:
Oh ok that makes more sense, damn and here I thought I figured out how to simplify it more lol

Curious though, since this axle is sticking at 31"s and they will always be 10.5" wides, could the punching marks on to the knuckle arms work?
Click to expand...

you can... but remember that a little bit at the knuckles is going to translate to a lot at the wheels. we are only talking 1/16-1/8 of toe here. your only as good as your eyeballs and a tape measure. measure here your suppose to for best results a couple of jack stands (or a buddy), a tape measure, big channel locks, and an 18mm wrench isnt a lot to fight with. but if your bent on doing it your way... id measure off of the steering arm. that way you dont have to try and fish between the steering and axle.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
you can... but remember that a little bit at the knuckles is going to translate to a lot at the wheels. we are only talking 1/16-1/8 of toe here. your only as good as your eyeballs and a tape measure. measure here your suppose to for best results a couple of jack stands (or a buddy), a tape measure, big channel locks, and an 18mm wrench isnt a lot to fight with. but if your bent on doing it your way... id measure off of the steering arm. that way you dont have to try and fish between the steering and axle.
Click to expand...

Not bent on my way just curious if there are different option/methods that can be done but what you are saying does make more sense
 
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