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Now no flak, got these for $30(control arms)

Demonoid369

Demonoid369

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Salem, OR
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Pulled these offof a zj at the junk yard, now I know the front suspension is the same/similar to the xj which is why I pulled them, but looking up tuff country I can't tell if they are for the 2" or 3.5" lifts, since there are two 2" lift kits(ez-ride/ez-flex) and two 3.5"(ditto) I've compared them to other xj LCA and they look to be the same length but I don't know if that warrants them being the 2" arms since I think some 3"-3.5" arms are indeed the same length as stock.

Edit: never mind, comparing pics this is the 3.5" lift.

New question then, should I Rock them? I'm sticking with 31" till I can swap my other axle in and I'm at 3" lift. Plus is their bushings only able to get then from them or are they more widely used bushings?
 
Last edited:
there's not really a difference in control arm length for 2-4" lift when it comes to aftermarket arms..

measure stock, and then measure your new ones
 
The slot in the frame side pocket will let you correct for whatever length those are.
All short arms should be about the same and let you get caster correct up to 3-4" at least.
 
I would not rock those, no matter what height they are.

The stock control arms are "U" shaped stamped metal, and when you articulate, the actual arm itself twists.

Proper aftermarket control arms have a flex joint at one end or both to allow the arm to twist when the axle articulates.

When you articulate with those arms, it will duress the joints and the mounts, until it eventually rips the control arm mounts off of your front axle -which takes less time than you think it would.

Throw them up on CL and buy something engineered to work correctly. :)
 
It almost brings a tear to my eye to see jr agreeing with sr. :)
 
Lmao alright, that was what I wanted to hear, I knew they weren't the ez-flex. The junk yard near me has a couple if wj with their arms, think I should just get them? I'm on a tight budget so anything cheaper is better for me right now. Plan to swap out my tie rods and get a alignment so I'd figured I could swap arms to better one before it
 
WJ arms will be the same scenario. Save your pennies and buy some RE arms, they just aren't that expensive.
 
The reason I wouldn't use them has nothing at all to do with joints.

Most LCAs have a kick out to allow the front to droop a bit more and these don't have that. That kick out also seems to have some affect on the forces put on the mounts. If you want to JY pick lowers, get a set of WJ ones with the bend in for turning radius.

If you are still running the stock arms and are doing serious Off-Roading,
A set (upper and lower) tube arms is a worthwhile upgrade no matter what bushings they have in them. A pretzel'd set of UCAs is enough to ruin your whole day of wheeling.

If you can swing a set of fancy arms with X or Johnny joints, more power to you.
Your mounts are not just going to break off the 1st or even 200'th time you take it out. Just something to inspect now and then.

-Ron
 
cal said:
WJ arms will be the same scenario. Save your pennies and buy some RE arms, they just aren't that expensive.
Click to expand...

WJ arms no better?
I'm far from expert but I don't hear about WJ control arms failing or mounts coming off. I'd thought the larger bushing accommodated the flex?
 
WB9YZU said:
The reason I wouldn't use them has nothing at all to do with joints.

Most LCAs have a kick out to allow the front to droop a bit more and these don't have that. That kick out also seems to have some affect on the forces put on the mounts. If you want to JY pick lowers, get a set of WJ ones with the bend in for turning radius.

If you are still running the stock arms and are doing serious Off-Roading,
A set (upper and lower) tube arms is a worthwhile upgrade no matter what bushings they have in them. A pretzel'd set of UCAs is enough to ruin your whole day of wheeling.

If you can swing a set of fancy arms with X or Johnny joints, more power to you.
Your mounts are not just going to break off the 1st or even 200'th time you take it out. Just something to inspect now and then.

-Ron
Click to expand...

Weird I just noticed the kick out on the website pic but mine don't? Strange lol but ill sell them then.
 
WB9YZU said:
The reason I wouldn't use them has nothing at all to do with joints.

Most LCAs have a kick out to allow the front to droop a bit more and these don't have that. That kick out also seems to have some affect on the forces put on the mounts. If you want to JY pick lowers, get a set of WJ ones with the bend in for turning radius.

If you are still running the stock arms and are doing serious Off-Roading,
A set (upper and lower) tube arms is a worthwhile upgrade no matter what bushings they have in them. A pretzel'd set of UCAs is enough to ruin your whole day of wheeling.

If you can swing a set of fancy arms with X or Johnny joints, more power to you.
Your mounts are not just going to break off the 1st or even 200'th time you take it out. Just something to inspect now and then.

-Ron
Click to expand...

those poly bushings will kill LCA mounts. tube arms with poly bushings are not an upgrade.

a set of LCA skids like the currie or JKS ones will help the axle side mounts live longer, but the frame side mounts aren't all that strong either.
 
yossarian19 said:
WJ arms no better?
I'm far from expert but I don't hear about WJ control arms failing or mounts coming off. I'd thought the larger bushing accommodated the flex?
Click to expand...

I'm curious about this to since I've seen good things about them, someone on here did the swap iirc? I'm not doing any serious rock crawling(northwest) here it's more trail style than rock crawling. What I'm saving up for is a true 3link set up for when I swap axles. Till then in keeping this at 31" max and 3" lift.
 
By making the arms so strong that they cannot flex at all, you are asking the bushings to do all of the deflection.

That kills rubber bushings and tears brackets off with poly bushings.

On a stock vehicle with only a few inches of travel it probably won't have too much of an effect, but for trail use it doesn't work, you end up wearing the bushings faster than you would like.

That's why joints like Johnny joints and Heims are used in suspensions.
 
ILoveJeeps said:
If you knew people wanna gonna cause a scene why did you post it?
Click to expand...

What scene? I know tuff country isn't a known good company(kinda like rough country) but since I got then so cheap I figured I'd see if they were worth using or selling. Don't bother me, sold them already lol
 
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