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built hpd30/c8.25 for 35s

1

1998xjspt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Orlando, FL
In sitting at 3.5 lift and wanting 35s. But what specifically do i need to have to fun 35s on these axles? In locked front and rear. So is it as easy as chromo shafts, gears and ujoints? What do i need to consider when moving up to 35s? I know ill be at a low cog stance so in ready to cut away and bumpstop. Links to what i need or recommendations on where to buy product is greatly appreciated!
 
Everything u said plus brakes, steering, and bracing. Other wise you're fine. 35s is a commitment.
 
Spokes said:
Everything u said plus brakes, steering, and bracing. Other wise you're fine. 35s is a commitment.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by commitment? In willing to save up for chromo shafts, gears etc. Its just the fact that its my dd that has me worried. Almost considering buying 35s only for offered use. And Dr on my 31 but I'm if that's a smart route to go
 
1998xjspt said:
What do you mean by commitment? In willing to save up for chromo shafts, gears etc. Its just the fact that its my dd that has me worried. Almost considering buying 35s only for offered use. And Dr on my 31 but I'm if that's a smart route to go
Click to expand...

Just have to remember you have bigger tires and be smart when on the skinny pedal. 30/8.25 can handle 35s all day long as long as you're smart. Hell i had a buddy with a yj with 35s on the old vacuum 30 and 35 welded f/r with 3.07s and a 5 speed and he isnt easy on the pedal. they held better i thought lol I wouldnt run 35s with stock steering and stock brakes on the road. I know when I had stock brakes and 33s it sucked. I couldn't imagine 35s
 
1998xjspt said:
What do you mean by commitment? In willing to save up for chromo shafts, gears etc. Its just the fact that its my dd that has me worried. Almost considering buying 35s only for offered use. And Dr on my 31 but I'm if that's a smart route to go
Click to expand...

I upgraded everything before going to 35's because I didn't have a trailer and always drove to and from the trails.

Chromo shafts, new unit bearings, upgraded brake rotors/pads, discs in the rear, bumpstops, cut fenders, steering, gears, lockers, longarms, etc. Tons of upgrades all before I had 35's.

If you are truly DD'ing your jeep, I'd definitely recommend having some smaller A/T's for DD duty. My XJ had about 5" of lift on 32's when I swapped to 35's without changing the lift at all. Definitely more streetable on the smaller tires. With the 4.0/AW4 combo, 4.56s were great for 32's on the street, and they could handle 35's offroad. I just hated having to downshift into 3rd gear every time I was under 45 mph or going up a steep hill on the highway.
 
sunburned said:
I upgraded everything before going to 35's because I didn't have a trailer and always drove to and from the trails.

Chromo shafts, new unit bearings, upgraded brake rotors/pads, discs in the rear, bumpstops, cut fenders, steering, gears, lockers, longarms, etc. Tons of upgrades all before I had 35's.

If you are truly DD'ing your jeep, I'd definitely recommend having some smaller A/T's for DD duty. My XJ had about 5" of lift on 32's when I swapped to 35's without changing the lift at all. Definitely more streetable on the smaller tires. With the 4.0/AW4 combo, 4.56s were great for 32's on the street, and they could handle 35's offroad. I just hated having to downshift into 3rd gear every time I was under 45 mph or going up a steep hill on the highway.
Click to expand...

Yup, its my one and only vehicle DD. And thanks for the list of things you did before 35s. It gives me a lot more idea of what i need to do.
 
Frame stiffeners! And definitely make your heep more capable before. Then you will have a much lower risk of breaking. I would definitely go the route of having 2 sets of wheels/tires. No need in wearing out nice expensive tires.
 
For the front.. Truss the housing, sleeve the tubes, Gusset the Inner-C's
Alloy shafts, Full case locker, Cryo treated Ring and pinion, U-bolt Yoke. Aftermarket diff cover, And WJ brake/steering

You're gonna spend $2500-$3000 Building a semi-decent Dana 30.. and then end up looking at spending $3000 on a 3/4 ton HP44 build later.. My $0.02, Go straight to 3/4 ton axles now vs later
 
NW-ZJ-SCOTT said:
then end up looking at spending $3000 on a 3/4 ton HP44 build later.. My $0.02, Go straight to 3/4 ton axles now vs later
Click to expand...

the same could be said about a D44 vs D60

many guys eventually graduate from the D30. but it's a great starting point. it will definitely handle 35's. just run full circle clips and learn as you go. but if you're planning on spending more than $1500 on a D30 then yeah you should be building something else. D44 should be about $800 and done
 
NW-ZJ-SCOTT said:
For the front.. Truss the housing, sleeve the tubes, Gusset the Inner-C's
Alloy shafts, Full case locker, Cryo treated Ring and pinion, U-bolt Yoke. Aftermarket diff cover, And WJ brake/steering

You're gonna spend $2500-$3000 Building a semi-decent Dana 30.. and then end up looking at spending $3000 on a 3/4 ton HP44 build later.. My $0.02, Go straight to 3/4 ton axles now vs later
Click to expand...

CAJJ93XJ said:
the same could be said about a D44 vs D60

many guys eventually graduate from the D30. but it's a great starting point. it will definitely handle 35's. just run full circle clips and learn as you go. but if you're planning on spending more than $1500 on a D30 then yeah you should be building something else. D44 should be about $800 and done
Click to expand...

Common comments from people who haven't actually built a D44. I'd love to see all the strong parts you're putting in a 44 for $800...

I built up my D30 over the course of 3 or so years. No way I was dropping a ton of dough at one time on a 30 or a 60, didn't matter. And I wasn't going to build up a bigger axle in my non-existent garage and wheel crappy trails in the meantime.

The 30 holds up to 35's just fine. I wheeled the crap out of it without a worry of breaking. Yeah, I spent some dough on the RCV's and ARB and all that, but it was worth it having a lightweight, strong axle with tons of ground clearance.
 
jeeperjohn said:
Especially if you run 35's and a D30 you need a sturdy diff cover to prevent ring gear deflection.
Click to expand...

I highly reccomend this.


But make sure you countersink the bolts, run come washers and grade 8 bolts. No crappy Allen head bolts or grade 5 junk.
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
the same could be said about a D44 vs D60

many guys eventually graduate from the D30. but it's a great starting point. it will definitely handle 35's. just run full circle clips and learn as you go. but if you're planning on spending more than $1500 on a D30 then yeah you should be building something else. D30 should be about $800 and done
Click to expand...

sunburned said:
Common comments from people who haven't actually built a D44. I'd love to see all the strong parts you're putting in a 44 for $800...
Click to expand...

sorry sir this was a typo! fixed
 
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