low idle, weird start.

Ok I've been searching and searching an can't seem to find a related thread. I'm ne, and apologize if my search efforts are not good enough..

1996 xj 4.0
5 Speed manual trans.
131k miles.
D30 up front
Chrysler 8.25 in the rear. all stock.
new clutch kit and fly wheel.

idle is low at operating temp (210-220)
Idles at maybe 200-300.( first line above 0Idle)
Also in nuetral ebrake engaged, turn key all the way no start. but if i turn key all the way and hold it for about 3 seconds it will start right up, doesn't seem rough. just that initial point you turn the key all the way i get nothing. lights come on and heat kicks on just no start unless i hold it a few seconds. battery is good as well as starter. don't think its the nuetral saftey switch ( think its taken off, can start jeep in gear no clutch) if there is a nuetral saftey switch...i was postive normal idle is 500_800?

200 rpm is definitely on the low side. It sounds like you may have 2 issues going on. With the idle, I would first start with the IAC. You can remove and clean it, but be careful not to damage the pintle. A service of your throttle body would probably also be warranted and would most likely help with your idle issue. When was the tune-up hardware last replaced? Do you have any MILs (check engine lights). If so, pull codes and post them here.

The key issue sounds like a worn ignition switch. You can do some testing and make sure you're getting power to your ASD relay in the PDC (underhood fuse box).

Hopefully that'll get you started.....good luck.

Yes check you IAC. Our Jeep was doing the same thing with the low idle and it was the IAC. Changed that and it fixed the problem.

While you're checking the IAC, also check the IAT, the two work together, the IAT tells the ECU what the IAC should be doing (man that's a lot of acronyms). Also, replacement isn't necessarily the answer, clean these parts before you replace them. I usually hose off the IAT with brake cleaner, and then clean out the throttle body/IAC hole with seafoam and a rag.

As for the odd starting issue... the start switch is up on top of the column if you're a bit industrious, you can get it out without having to disassemble the column (there's a transfer bar that connects to the key switch) you can work the switch back and forth with a screwdriver to see if the switch is hosed, if so you can just disconnect it from the wiring harness and get another one...

Also, given the year of your vehicle, does this one have a clutch safety start switch?

Just a notion, if your oil filter adaptor is leaking onto the starter, the oil will eventually find it's way onto the brushes ( I don't know how, but it does). What this does is limit the brush contact, it may spark and crackle inside the starter and sounds a lot like bacon frying. Once the oil cooks off the brushes the starter can draw enough amps to work correctly.

Much the same thing can happen if the brushes are worn. Brushes last typically 5-6 years, depending on how often you start. When they wear to the point that they are hardly making contact, starting gets iffy.

Just for my clarity, when you turn the key all the way:

It won't crank for first 3 seconds

Or

It cranks good but won't fire for first 3 seconds.