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Stripped caliper bolt threads in knuckle

Jeep450r

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
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Nor*cal
Somehow I stripped the caliper bolt threads in my knuckle. Is there anything I can do to fix it without getting a new knuckle?
 
Heli-coil, just don't freak out at the sticker price, a kit may cost you more than a knuckle. :)
 
depending on your pad life... you may be able to fit a ground down nut between the pad and the knuckle with a longer bolt, but them you might not be able to replace pads sometime down the road.

your best permanent fix is a helicoil or new knuckle from the JY.

or use it as an excuse to do a WJ swap.
 
Buy a Heli-Coil repair kit at your local auto parts store. It will re-use stock caliper bolts.

A kit for one side should cost about $12-16.
 
Somehow I stripped the caliper bolt threads in my knuckle. Is there anything I can do to fix it without getting a new knuckle?

- Remove Knuckle
- Take to drill press (a mill would be better, but a drill press - with care - is doable.)
- Install Heli-Coil.
- Reinstall knuckle.

Done this a few times, no ill effect.
 
Heli coil worked like a champ! Thanks guys.
 
Good to remember, in many cases the brake pad is secured by mechanical keying and not the caliper bolt. Most of those cases, the caliper bolt is torqued under 20 ft lbs. so far as I've seen anyway. Short version: go gentle, it's an m8
 
Also know that the caliper "bolt" (it's usually referred to as a "pin") is primarily there not to so much secure the caliper, as it is to guide the caliper and allow it to "float."

Primary force on the caliper is a "spreading" from pushing internally to clamp the pads on the rotor - apart from that, the pins are there merely to locate the caliper and allow it to slide back & forth (to allow self-adjustment for pad wear.)

Ergo, you don't need much torque on the pins - it's usually 20-30 lb-ft and LocTite #242 is always a good idea.
 
I've never needed loctite on them.

Also, if you aren't retarded, you can probably do the drilling without a drill press... unless a caliper bolt is broken off in the hole, then you definitely need a drill press to keep it going straight. With an open stripped out bolt hole it's pretty easy to make it go where it's supposed to.
 
I've never needed loctite on them.

Also, if you aren't retarded, you can probably do the drilling without a drill press... unless a caliper bolt is broken off in the hole, then you definitely need a drill press to keep it going straight. With an open stripped out bolt hole it's pretty easy to make it go where it's supposed to.

True - I've done 'em freehand (the drill usually follows the hole,) but I prefer to eliminate as many variables as possible.

I've probably not "needed" LocTite either - but it's brakes, I prefer to not take chances. What's a drop of LocTite, against the potential for a catastrophic failure? Cheap insurance, y'ask me...
 
I've seen more one car come in with a missing brake caliper pin / bolt. Didn't crash on the way to the shop, driver didn't report any problem. Still, you for sure want both.
 
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