Head Replacement - Replace Lifters? (0331 Problems)

markjrs3 · Oct 7, 2013

Hey guys,

I bought a '00 with a cracked head, and am planning on ordering a new head from Clearwater in the next few days.

My plan was to reuse the lifters, as it's the general consensus to not replace them if you're not touching the Cam. This is at least what I've gathered from searching. However...nearly all the references I've seen made to this rule of thumb were from threads where people were replacing their lifters and didn't have much of an issue. So I guess my question is...what's the lesser of two evils if I want NOTHING to do with touching the bottom end?

Engine has about 160k, lifter tick is minor, if present at all; about normal from my somewhat limited experience.

joe_peters · Oct 9, 2013

At 160k, head off, I would replace the lifters.

Shop around, find the best price on a set of Sealed Power lifters, grab some assembly lube, and get it done.

Unless you just like pulling the head, buying gaskets sets and head bolts.

markjrs3 · Oct 10, 2013

No concerns with new lifters on old cam? If so, it's worth the $42... Assuming these are the correct lifters: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-ht-2011/overview/

tjmotter · Oct 10, 2013

markjrs3 said:
No concerns with new lifters on old cam? If so, it's worth the $42... Assuming these are the correct lifters: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-ht-2011/overview/

No issues but as Joe said, make sure you buy cam assembly lube and coat them well before installing. Something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-35000/overview/

Note that this stuff is like a thick grease that coats the surface of the lifter and gives it time to break in/shape to the lobe on the cam. If you decide to reuse your old ones, make sure to mark which cam lobe they came off of and reinstall on the same one when you put it back together.

markjrs3 · Oct 10, 2013

This is great, thank you. I'm ordering this all today.

Tony_SS · Oct 10, 2013

Use a Fel-Pro heavy duty head gasket too, along with new head bolts. Use the proper torq and procedure from a service manual.

The job is pretty straight forward.

markjrs3 · Oct 10, 2013

I ordered the Crown Auto upper gasket kit from 4WD, hopefully that will work just fine? Head bolts are being delivered today, new torque wrench on Saturday.

Tony_SS · Oct 10, 2013

You'll need a 12pt deepwell socket to clear some of the headbolts.. I found mine at Lowes..Kobalt brand, I bought a single one. Had to dremel out the inside a bit for clearance.

tjmotter · Oct 10, 2013

Tony_SS said:
You'll need a 12pt deepwell socket to clear some of the headbolts.. I found mine at Lowes..Kobalt brand, I bought a single one. Had to dremel out the inside a bit for clearance.

I seem to recall that the rear most bolt on the drivers side was the toughest to get in and out. In fact, I ended up buying a 3/8 drive deep socket for this one because my 1/2 drive was too tall. As I recall, I also had to drop the bolt into the head before lifting the head onto the engine because the firewall was in the way and wouldn't allow the bolt to drop in.

winterbeater · Oct 11, 2013

joe_peters said:
At 160k, head off, I would replace the lifters.

Shop around, find the best price on a set of Sealed Power lifters, grab some assembly lube, and get it done.

Unless you just like pulling the head, buying gaskets sets and head bolts.

$3.50 each @ Summit = $42. I was just going to clean and test mine, but that seems pretty cheap.

markjrs3 · Oct 11, 2013

Tony_SS said:
You'll need a 12pt deepwell socket to clear some of the headbolts.. I found mine at Lowes..Kobalt brand, I bought a single one. Had to dremel out the inside a bit for clearance.

Good call.

markjrs3 · Oct 11, 2013

tjmotter said:
I seem to recall that the rear most bolt on the drivers side was the toughest to get in and out. In fact, I ended up buying a 3/8 drive deep socket for this one because my 1/2 drive was too tall. As I recall, I also had to drop the bolt into the head before lifting the head onto the engine because the firewall was in the way and wouldn't allow the bolt to drop in.

Yeah I've seen that mentioned as an issue. There's a ridge from the firewall that doesn't allow the bolt to be taken out or put in while the head is in position.

markjrs3 · Oct 13, 2013

Thanks for the various help all. Managed to get it stripped down to the head this afternoon. Those bottom intake manifold bolts are a PITA. A nice variety of extensions was one of the best purchases I've ever made.

Talyn · Oct 13, 2013

If you are replacing the lifters you need to run the cam breakin procedure and use the correct lube on the lifter foot. I also recommend the Johnson/HYlift lifters. PN 2011.

If you are reusing lifters they need to go in the same hole they came out of.

or the rear bolt, tape it up so it doesn't hang below the head surface when removing and installing it. Just a few wraps of tape on the shaft to keep it out of the hole. I use painters tape for this because its easy to remove.

Also, keep in mind that the #1 bolt over the water pump needs thread sealant.

O-Gauge Steamer · Oct 13, 2013

Also, consider filling the lifters with engine oil prior to installation. I sit them in a bucket and pump them a few times.

markjrs3 · Oct 13, 2013

Thanks, I appreciate that.

Truckedup · Oct 13, 2013

Before spending money....take an old lifter out and look at the bottom.No scoring or pitting? Now take a straight edge across the lifter bottom,hold it up to strong light and check to see if the lifter is slightly domed shaped by just a few thousands of an inch.Some guys take two lifters and hold the bottoms together and rock them a bit. If they pass the test you have a good lifter. Another test is to start the engine with valve cover removed to see if the push rods spin....The slight taper built into the cam and the convex lifter bottom makes it spin.No spin can mean worn lifter and or cam ..
I have read many times that the lifters you buy new may be inferior to the old ones.Quality varies even with well known brand names.
And if the lifter is worn concave the cam lobe is likely worn also and probably tear up a new lifter.

winterbeater · Oct 14, 2013

What about taking your old lifters, soaking in penetrating oil and then test them to see if they pump up? Although $42 for a new set seems like the way to go. Would new lifters risk more screwing up your cam?

Talyn · Oct 14, 2013

winterbeater said:
Would new lifters risk more screwing up your cam?

Only if proper cam break in is not done.

markjrs3 · Oct 14, 2013

Talyn said:
Only if proper cam break in is not done.

Anyone have advice for the best way to remove the lifters? I can't find a good explanation anywhere. The videos I've seen seem to all skip that portion. They go from taking the head off, and then skip scene to a bunch of lifters on the table.

Head Replacement - Replace Lifters? (0331 Problems)

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Supporting Vendor

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Supporting Vendor

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Forum User

Similar threads