Exhaust Wrap?

Hello ,
I was under my jeep and after swapping a ax15 into my 92 4.0 I was noticing that my exhaust down pipe was within two inches to where my bellhousing and the tranny case meet. I believe I have an input shaft leak in the ax15 since oil is slowly dripping from the bellhousing, but I was wondering if anyone has experience with exhaust wrap/tape. I want to keep the ax15 from soaking extra heat from the downpipe that crosses under it. Is some exhaust tape from a local auto parts store going to help any or should I not even bother?

Thanks

Here is what I know about header wrap. Every header manufacturer will void the warranty on the part if it is wrapped.

The reason is this:
At the ends of the wrap a "hot spot" is formed which can cause the part to crack.

I do realize that you are asking about a stock piece of exhaust but, the principle is the same. As shipped, the exhaust location is a non-issue. If the exhaust manifold were to be replaced with a header, use a header blanket for insulation. It is the preferred by the manufacturers method as no hot spots are created.

Now. Before someone pops up and says "But race cars use the wrap"... I will agree that that is true but then the car does not have to run for several tens of thousands of miles without failure.

I have used both and have a blanket installed in my Heep even as we speak.

IMO, to reduce heat transfer to the transmission, a sheet metal heat shield could possibly be installed.

One idea:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo-Tec/893/11650/10002/-1?parentProductId=752722#moreDetails

Wrapping entire manifold and exhaust up to cat. Keep the heat from motor, tranny and hot intake manifold/fuel injectors thanks to genius of mounting exhst mnfld directly underneath. My 01 is getting superheated #3 injector. I think its a good idea, plus you could make a shield for the area you are worried about. Bend some metal strip and hose clamp it, working on an exhst manifold shield myself. Tape and shield.

O-gauge, I didn't know that. Shield it is.

O-Gauge Steamer said:

Here is what I know about header wrap. Every header manufacturer will void the warranty on the part if it is wrapped.

The reason is this:
At the ends of the wrap a "hot spot" is formed which can cause the part to crack.

I do realize that you are asking about a stock piece of exhaust but, the principle is the same. As shipped, the exhaust location is a non-issue. If the exhaust manifold were to be replaced with a header, use a header blanket for insulation. It is the preferred by the manufacturers method as no hot spots are created.

Now. Before someone pops up and says "But race cars use the wrap"... I will agree that that is true but then the car does not have to run for several tens of thousands of miles without failure.

I have used both and have a blanket installed in my Heep even as we speak.

IMO, to reduce heat transfer to the transmission, a sheet metal heat shield could possibly be installed.

One idea:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo-Tec/893/11650/10002/-1?parentProductId=752722#moreDetails

Click to expand...

FYI--the 4.0 uses an exhaust HEADER, not an exhaust MANIFOLD. Just a technical detail, but lets be accurate.

Dark93 said:

. My 01 is getting superheated #3 injector. I think its a good idea, plus you could make a shield for the area you are worried about. Bend some metal strip and hose clamp it, working on an exhaust manifold shield myself. Tape and shield.

Click to expand...

Having lived with the 2001's #3 injector hot soak misfire for going one ten years, I have finally come up with a solution that has worked this summer.
Previously, I had insulated the fuel rail and injectors, installed a 3-minute shut-down timer, for use on warm days, and hood vents. The vents helped and the timer always works... every time I remembered to turn it on.
The latest attempt was removing the intake manifold, cleaning it well and applying a layer of adhesive-backed heat shield to bottom of it.
Thermotec Adhesive-Backed Heat Barrier
http://www.thermotec.com/products/13500-adhesive-backed-heat-barrier.html
This has made a big difference in intake temps and the hot-soak problem.
Time well tell if it holds up.

O-gauge steamer's header blanket would have similar results, although, with the intense heat the min-cats produce, I would want the back of the cats insulated too, to keep the the side of the block and oil pan from absorbing any more heat. I also have insulated the driver's side of the oil pan with the same heat barrier, to reduce to the heat transfer from the mini-cats. Every little bit helps.

I found another cure for the pre cats but I can't talk about it on naxja....

themauler said:

Hello ,
I was under my jeep and after swapping a ax15 into my 92 4.0 I was noticing that my exhaust down pipe was within two inches to where my bellhousing and the tranny case meet. I believe I have an input shaft leak in the ax15 since oil is slowly dripping from the bellhousing, but I was wondering if anyone has experience with exhaust wrap/tape. I want to keep the ax15 from soaking extra heat from the downpipe that crosses under it. Is some exhaust tape from a local auto parts store going to help any or should I not even bother?

Thanks

Click to expand...

exhaust wrap will soak any fluids that leaks , then make for a good fire. never had a issue with the ax15 in my 95 and heat

I have a 96/87 swap with no carpet. Napa sells a rockwool/ mylar ( my best guesses) heat shield that clamps on. Made a noticeable difference on mine in heat absorption into the floor

lazyxj said:

The latest attempt was removing the intake manifold, cleaning it well and applying a layer of adhesive-backed heat shield to bottom of it.
Thermotec Adhesive-Backed Heat Barrier
http://www.thermotec.com/products/13500-adhesive-backed-heat-barrier.html
This has made a big difference in intake temps and the hot-soak problem.
Time well tell if it holds up.

Click to expand...

See my thread in the performance section.

When I installed the blanket, I also installed adhesive heat barrier to both the manifold that sits between the compressor and the head as well as the manifold that is the compressor inlet.

As lazyxj states, a large drop in intake air temperature was achieved. Time and money well spent.

Back to the drip.., check the evidence, i.e., gather a drip with your forefinger, and then at your convenience put your forefinger and thumb together, circulate them, rub them, and smell the drip. If it smells like oil, then it is oil.:repair: If it smells like something else, then it is something else.:repair:

Just read in a magazine about testing ceramic coated headers.

Summary-

-on the dyno, no power change, sucking hot underhood air will definitely feel the effects of the hotter air
-after a dyno run, ceramic 258* dropping to 195* after 1 minute, Uncoated 870* dropping to 520*
-after loading the engine to 60 lb-ft at 2800 rpm, like cruising, ceramic 288*, uncoated 562*

I have been considering Jet-Hot ceramic coating on my header in the future.

Don't know how much it will cost, haven't got that far in the planning stage, but it will be RED in color!