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Better short arm droop

D

djlarroc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver, CO
I am wondering how I can improve my short arm droop. In this picture here, I am around max droop, and still have about 4" left in my shocks (tried standing on the hub, but didn't drop much more).

I'm running RC 3" coils (more like 2.5"), with Ironman fixed lowers w/the bend. 11" travel shocks. Track bar and steering is stock, but I didn't notice a bind. Looks like the upper bumpstop is limiting, but I would think my coil could still slide on it?
cherokeedroop_zps753cda93.jpg


I want to run bigger tires now, probably a 33x12.50 on current 2.5" lift. At that low of a lift, I guess I could run adjustables, but before I spend the money, should I try something else? I have an adjustable RE track bar single shear, that I can throw in. I'd like to run a double shear, but don't think I have the angle w/2.5" lift, correct?
 
Be careful when trying to force it - a few things are likely culprits:

- Drive shaft (if you overextend it, you risk pulling the shaft apart at the slip joint)
- Track bar (the frame-side TRE really doesn't have a lot of range)
- Steering (TREs again, but this is less likely at your height)

My guess is the track bar, followed 2nd by the driveshaft.
 
droop your front axle and look at the point that the lower control is contacting the bracing for the lower coil mounting area.if you cut the last inch or so of that brace off (the rounded part) you'll gain some droop. cheap and easy.

you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at it.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
droop your front axle and look at the point that the lower control is contacting the bracing for the lower coil mounting area.if you cut the last inch or so of that brace off (the rounded part) you'll gain some droop. cheap and easy.

you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at it.
Click to expand...

Bingo.
Just rear of the shock mount.

Works awesome with stock arms. Many aftermarket lowers have a dog leg in them to do the same basic thing, but they will still limit droop.

Looking at the pix, you really don't want too much more droop. The spring isn't loaded as it is. Make sure the spring retainers are installed at the axle. It's a PITA to extend too far and come down with no spring.
 
double shear trackbar, drop brackets , steering, shocks, brakelines(once you start adding more droop to the system make sure they are long enough) , driveshaft . short arm 4 link can bind too. I didnt realize how much a stock 4 link binds until i went from a stock 4 link to radius arm long arm setup that still did bind (hey it was free though , sorta) to a 3 link i built that doesnt really bind at all...
 
GrimmJeeper said:
droop your front axle and look at the point that the lower control is contacting the bracing for the lower coil mounting area.if you cut the last inch or so of that brace off (the rounded part) you'll gain some droop. cheap and easy.

you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at it.
Click to expand...
Thanks.. I will take a look. I remember seeing clearance there still because of that bend, and also these ironman arms are really small in diameter, but I will check and notch if it is.
WB9YZU said:
Bingo.
Just rear of the shock mount.

Works awesome with stock arms. Many aftermarket lowers have a dog leg in them to do the same basic thing, but they will still limit droop.

Looking at the pix, you really don't want too much more droop. The spring isn't loaded as it is. Make sure the spring retainers are installed at the axle. It's a PITA to extend too far and come down with no spring.
Click to expand...
Yes, I agree. Both coils are firmly clamped down. The spring actually still has a bit of force on it. Which is why it seems like I should get more droop. From the pic, it looks like the LCA is too short to keep swinging down. I was thinking of taking out the bend, or just going adjustable and scooting my axle forward.
 
Also.. do you guys think I should replace the track bar w/the RE? I think I can compress it to stock length or just a tad over. I realize the TRE on the frame side doesn't have much range, will the heim improve it that much more?
 
The heim should help. I would consider one of 2 things. First, mod your stock bracket to run the heim in double sheer. Second, get an aftermarket frame-side track bar bracket and run it in double sheer. If you run it in single sheer eventually the hole will wallow itself out.
Are you using stock upper arms? I definitely recommend at least an adjustable set of uppers, if you keep your fixed lowers.
 
thanks. that's the reason i haven't installed it yet. i may just sell it, if i can find a short enough double shear mount. i believe the RE doesn't hang down as much.

i am using stock uppers. i read they are good for up to 5-6" of lift. i know the articulation is not as good as joints, but this jeep drives like stock or better right now.
 
Re: Re: Better short arm droop

djlarroc said:
thanks. that's the reason i haven't installed it yet. i may just sell it, if i can find a short enough double shear mount. i believe the RE doesn't hang down as much.

i am using stock uppers. i read they are good for up to 5-6" of lift. i know the articulation is not as good as joints, but this jeep drives like stock or better right now.
Click to expand...

Re is the same height as stock. No drop.
At least one pair of adjustable control arms, upper or lower is recommended. Since you already have fixed lowers, I recommend adjustable uppers, makes caster/pinion angle easier to adjust.
 
adjustable arms won't help your droop at all.

you need longer coils, longer shocks and to clearance the brackets where the axle binds up.

also a double shear TB will help as well.
 
Short arms(Currie JJ), RE drop brackets, Re 4.5 coils, ACOS, Currie JJ track bar(double sheared), stock DS, OME Nitro Charger extended size, stock draglink with Big Daddy tie rod. Stuffing 35's

Other work done; Lower shock mounts were made and the bar pins eliminated, the stock track bar bracket was made "double shear", steering box brace, all 4 arms are Johnny Jointed as well as the track bar.

It droops as good as the LA set-ups I wheel with and I have a lot better break over clearance without those LA's/cross member hanging in the middle. I skid plated the bottom of the DB's so they just slide off of stuff. I rarely hit anything with them though.

P1020803.jpg
 
do the fixed lowers have poly bushings on both ends? if so that is causing some binding, look into arms with some sort of flex joint on one end
 
This is my short arm set up.I did the trimming of the shock plate area they are talking about. It improved mine a ton.Try it before you spend money.
 
One more in the short arm crowd! :cheers:
I have never regretted my decision to go and stay with short arms! For an expedition rig/light crawler like mine they work perfect and it drives like a caddy down the highway!

scottmcneal said:
This is my short arm set up.I did the trimming of the shock plate area they are talking about. It improved mine a ton.Try it before you spend money.
Click to expand...
 
thanks for the pics and replies guys. I will try some of those suggestions.

I don't think spending on drop brackets will help me any. Reason for DB is to make your arms parallel due to lift. I'm trying to stay on 2.5", so the angle is not much more than 4.5/DB.

Longer coils won't help either because, now I have to get longer shocks. My current shocks are 11" long, and at full droop, still have 4" left to go. I also have BPEs in the front, so that probably adds another inch.

I think my problem is my track bar. My lowers have the "flex bushings".. probably don't twist as good as joints, but better than other arms with bushings.

I'd prefer to run the stock 4link vs a radius arm as well. And stock mounts provide better clearance.
 
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