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helmetface
July 23rd, 2013, 07:23
Alright guys I need someone to throw me a bone here. My roof has some serious surface rust. Nothing appears to be through, just bad pitting.

If someone can look over my plan of attack and give me some pointers- I would be seriously grateful.

One main thing I need some advice on is whether I should use some kind of chemical to remove the rust or just go right to the sanding.

-Peel back roof trim and remove roof rack
-Tape off everything
-Start sanding with 4 angle grinder loaded with a 120 grit sanding pad
-After I start reaching bare metal and most of the rust is gone I'll start hand sanding with 320 grit and a block.
-Spray self-etching primer(2 full coats)
-Spray basecoat (2? Coats)
-Clear coat (2? Coats)

I've got an electric Wagner sprayer that I'll be using for the primer, base and clear coat.

ANY help is appreciated.

Thanks

lilkuff
July 23rd, 2013, 20:55
First, you will want to move to a finer grit after 320 if your not going to use a high build primer. Spay can primers usualy won't cover 320 grit sand scratches.
Second, I don't see you getting a very good finish using a Wagner for painting. I would look into having it sprayed by someone with proper equipment. If money is a concern I would look into a place like maco or maybe someone that could take it on as a side job.
I had the same problem and I used a spray Berliner to do my roof. Very easy and looks pretty good. I paint cars for a living so I know how much hassle spraying a roof can be. Good luck, I hope I was of some help

helmetface
July 24th, 2013, 08:57
First, you will want to move to a finer grit after 320 if your not going to use a high build primer. Spay can primers usualy won't cover 320 grit sand scratches.
Second, I don't see you getting a very good finish using a Wagner for painting. I would look into having it sprayed by someone with proper equipment. If money is a concern I would look into a place like maco or maybe someone that could take it on as a side job.
I had the same problem and I used a spray Berliner to do my roof. Very easy and looks pretty good. I paint cars for a living so I know how much hassle spraying a roof can be. Good luck, I hope I was of some help

Hey lilkuff, thanks for chiming in!

How fine of a grit do you think I'll have to get down to?

Most importantly, any rust dissolver you recommend? I'm a little unsure of their process..Am I supposed to soak the rusted surface and prime immediately after? Or just a light rinse in between? Or wipe it down?

And at this point, I'm actually considering doing Monstaliner over the whole truck. Doing so is cheaper than just painting the roof..

If I were to use Monstaliner, I would use the same prep on my roof as I would for paint but also hit so scratches and questionable spots around the truck. I'd then have to scuff the rest of the clean paint so the liner will have proper adhesion.

It seems like a good option to get me by for at least a couple years.

alex22
July 25th, 2013, 17:32
I replaced about 1/3 of my floors last week and gave it 3 coats of POR15 on each side, It called for 320 grit to to prep painted surfaces. Its thicker than a true automotive paint that can be sprayed though.
I used the POR15 metal ready to get rid of any surface rust and also to prep the new metal.
Instructions:
http://por15bc.com/por-15.htm

When it comes to questions about paint I head to a local automotive paint supply store. The counter guys there are usually very knowledgeable about what to use, the prep and how much you will need. Most of them can paint and are looking for side jobs if you want to go that route.

~Alex