Brake hard line from master cylinder??

Got my million-dollar Dana 44 installed tonight. However, when loosening the rear brake line where the hardline becomes flexible, the hard line broke in half from corrosion. I was so livid. I used a super ghetto compression union to splice in a new smaller piece of line, but it will NOT be staying on the vehicle come tomorrow.

My question: does anyone have the part number for the hard line that goes from the master cylinder to the rear frame? Everything I have found is axle related. I have 25' of ni-cop line, but I'd much rather pay the extra doll hairs and slap in an oem line in this scenario.

WELL, this would be another one of those times it would be good to share with the rest of the class what we are talking about.

I did take the time to look at your personal info--so it is a 1995 Jeep Cherokee.

Now, with or without ABS?

Damnit, joe peters strikes again!

1999, auto, 231, abs, Dana 44 rear.

There has to be a handful of XJ's in the bone yard from your era. Go pull one of them. That is where I got mine.

I know that Carquest carries straight lengths of line. Not sure if long enough for what you need, but all would need to be done is to use a small bender to get it the shape you need.

DanMan2k06 said:

Got my million-dollar Dana 44 installed tonight. However, when loosening the rear brake line where the hardline becomes flexible, the hard line broke in half from corrosion. I was so livid. I used a super ghetto compression union to splice in a new smaller piece of line, but it will NOT be staying on the vehicle come tomorrow.

My question: does anyone have the part number for the hard line that goes from the master cylinder to the rear frame? Everything I have found is axle related. I have 25' of ni-cop line, but I'd much rather pay the extra doll hairs and slap in an oem line in this scenario.

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52127967, Tube, Proportioning Valve to Rear - MSRP $37.20

Recommend also getting 52128170, Tube, Proportioning Valve to Union - MSRP $4.00

The long tube looks like a problem to install but it isn't. Start from under the front of the vehicle with rear end pointing aft, then feed it in along the left rail.

Sidewinder, you're the man. Thanks a ton. I had about half of the line out last night just trying to splice it, so I could tell the whole thing wouldn't be much more of a hassle. Well worth $37 in my opinion.

Sidewinder CC said:

The long tube looks like a problem to install but it isn't. Start from under the front of the vehicle with rear end pointing aft, then feed it in along the left rail.

Click to expand...

This. I twisted off the end of mine awhile back when replacing the rear soft line. Since we had a Jeep dealership in our dealer chain at the time, I got an OE one for pretty cheap.

DanMan2k06 said:

Sidewinder, you're the man. Thanks a ton. I had about half of the line out last night just trying to splice it, so I could tell the whole thing wouldn't be much more of a hassle. Well worth $37 in my opinion.

Click to expand...

Good deal.

Take a look at that small dog leg line that goes from your proportining valve to that long line. Mine was pretty rusty so I changed it as well.
52128170, Tube, Proportioning Valve to Union - MSRP $4.00

I have my motor out so I changed that line that goes along the firewall from the proportioning valve to the right front brake and the small one that goes to the left front brake (changed the hoses as well).

I think it would be impossible to change that long dude that goes along the firewall with the engine installed. I recommend to anyone living in the salt belt (like me) to change this line (tube assembly) if they have their engine out, or at least when they have their head off.

Its not impossible, just takes some creative thinking on fishing it up through between the fender, engine, firewall. But its do-able, I just did it last fall.

Oh and for anybody out there looking to source the rear hardlines from the dealer, they just discontinued them. My buddy just went to our local dealer today and was told he'd was gonna have to bend his own, jeep stop producing it.

I don't know about ABS models, but for regular non ABS, it can end up being a better deal in the long run to make your own using standard lengths, and to put a couple of joints in. Years down the road, you can replace only the parts you need, without custom work. Manufacturers like, for economy, to run a single line from the master cylinder all the way through the fender well to the right brake, but you do not have to do it the same. You can have a short piece in the area that rusts all the time, going to an easily disassembled splice inside the engine compartment, never having to touch the line behind the engine.

I am talking here about proper double-flare splices, of course, not compression rings which are no longer legal. But the double-flare setup usually uses a brass center piece, and this allows it to be dismantled even when it's very old and crusty.

Anyone have the part numbers for a 97 XJ non ABS? IIRC the prop valve has a bubble flare to the oem union (next to steering shaft) but I don't remember if the union is a double flare or bubble also.

I have a roll of tubing and double flare kit but if the dealer has it in stock it'd save me a ton of time.

I was shocked when I was able to buy this line from dealer for the WJ..

Nevermind.. called dealer and lines will be in tomorrow am. $4 and $11... i'll update with part numbers tomorrow.