Quick question... rear driveshaft doesn't want to budge (changing u-joints)

1998
4-dr Cherokee Sport
AW4
NP231
Dana30
Chrys 8.25

I'm trying to get the rear driveshaft to let go of the car. The 4 8-mm bolts are loose on the rear along with the 2 straps at the rear. The front dust boot is loose and pushed towards the TC. I've marked the ears on the front and back for alignment later. I'm wacking on the ears with a dead blow hammer towards the front and rear and can't get this thing to budge.

1 Important Note: I have the vehicle jacked up on the axles, NOT the body, so the rear axle is under the compression of it's own weight. I don't know if this matters, but figured this would shorten the driveline. These are probably original U-joints (205,000 miles). Never been off-roaded.

What could I be doing better to get this thing loose? Another method?

Nevermind... Sprayed a tiny bit of PB blaster on it. Tapped the rear of the driveshaft forward (towards the front of the jeep) with a 3 lb lead hammer and it moved right away.

I needed something harder and heavier (more concussion) than a deadblow hammer, but not hard enough to damage the ears.

Jam a really big flat blade screwdriver or a mechanics prybar in between the ujoint body and axle pinion yoke/pinion nut at the axle end, then pry them apart. Don't be bashful about it, the caps are probably rusted in place.

Side note, never use an 8mm socket (especially a 12 point) on those bolts, they are 5/16. You may get away with a 6 point 8mm but I've had rusty ones round out using one.

Run a 1/4-28 thread chaser or tap through the holes in the yoke before reinstalling... and you really should replace the straps and bolts at least every couple times you disassemble that stuff. Dana/spicer part number 2-70-18x, cheap on northerndrivetrain.com.

Thanks Kastein... you always have details to share that I don't really consider.

I took a brass wire wheel to the straps and cleaned them up. I put antiseize on the bolts (which didn't give me a problem the first time, broke them with 1/4" ratchet and 6-point 8mm long socket and had no problems with rounding). I don't offroad and I'm pretty gentle on the driveline on the roads so I'll look at replacing them next time.

For the front I cleaned off the splines, cut off the 1-time rubber boot straps (x2) and cleaned out the inside of the boot. I'm using synthetic brake grease heavily lathered on the front splines to get rid of the "bowling ball effect."

Time to run to the driveline shop (I have bent ears before, would like NOT to do that again) where they'll press out the u-joints. Need to pick up 2 hose clamps for the dust boot, reinstall, and call this project done.

Next project I think will be installing the FF Dynamics triple threat e-fans. :clap:

I've been through it way too many times and made all the mistakes already :gee:

I typically use either steel cable ties or (if I know it'll be out again in a matter of months) plastic cable ties in place of those one-time-use boot straps.

Pressing the ujoints is actually a great way to bend the ears, but if they screw it up hopefully it'll be on them to fix it. I always do ujoints this way: