So i have finally got my toy from my wifes clutches, 00' xj 4.0 np231 and d35, i had decided to peice together my lift, 3.5" re springs, rc shocks,rc bar pin elims,sye with an rc driveline, and i plan on using 31s for now, my first question has to do with the factory abs system, ditch it? Or use it? And the rear swaybay gets tossed as well? Thanks
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1st lift install, got basic questions
- Thread starter crazymaci
- Start date
BPB
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Battle Ground, Washington
Auto with 4.0 is 3.55 any thing else isn't
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
BPB is right (though there are always exceptions - check the tags on the diff and you may find a ratio stamp), also make sure you have a d35 before planning a swap though because a few people misidentify them. In fact I bought a set of U-bolts for a d35 when I first bought stuff for my lift because I had no intentions of putting big tires on it or wheeling it hard enough to scratch/dent it and thought I had a d35.
I have come a long way since then :dunce:
I have come a long way since then :dunce:
Ya im an auto, 4.0 , i just got the rest of my parts in today so im going to put it together for now ,then look for a donor rig because i might as well get a low pinion front to match(since noob tech told me i got the bum one) and put a locker (detroit?)and new gears at that time, that upgrade was next when the budget permits, also are you guys running 33s with 3 1/2" by just removing the fender flares?
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You want a high pinion not a low pinion, the low pinion is the one you already have. It's not much of a difference but if you're replacing gears and doing a lift you might as well... that way you can gear everything out of the jeep and swap it in all at once, minimum downtime.
I'm on 33s, stock bumpstops, 3.5-4" lift, cut or bent anything that hit the tires and ran it. A little more cutting to do on an XJ rear than an MJ (MJ rear wheel wells fit 33s easy) but it's still not bad, I had the same 33s on my old XJ when they were brand new and everything still fit with just judicious cutting/folding with stock bumpstops.
I'm on 33s, stock bumpstops, 3.5-4" lift, cut or bent anything that hit the tires and ran it. A little more cutting to do on an XJ rear than an MJ (MJ rear wheel wells fit 33s easy) but it's still not bad, I had the same 33s on my old XJ when they were brand new and everything still fit with just judicious cutting/folding with stock bumpstops.
Some cutting and folding and bump stops yes.
Ya high pinion thats what i meant, all at once is a nice way to go,pulled the rear apart this afternoon, im going to order new u bolts and shims, but can i tap n die my original factory bolts and reuse them? I will also get new stovers nut for the shocks, also i just got the rough country double cardon driveline and it only has about 4" of travel whats everybody opinion on that one? I was thinking i may return it for the tom woods option, it looked like it had more travel for when i go bigger lift
Action Fab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hot Springs, AR.
I'm not running any lift with tires that measure 32.5"... basically a 33. I cut my fronts, folded the rears, and bump stopped the front 2". I also have 17x8, 3.5" BS wheels. I wheel it very hard and nothing rubs.
So i almost got the rear on today everything went well,except when i was putting on my rear bar pin eliminators i over torqued one bolt and break o, snapped , also now that its all installed i wish i took an extra minute to find that 8.25, the new u bolts cost what the new rear end woulda cist from a wrecking yard, lesson learned
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Shouldn't be much of a hassle on a 2000. Just take your largest drift punch and hammer and bash the busted nut out upward, make sure you're putting the punch on the nut not the sheetmetal around it. 97 and later only have a couple little spot welds holding the nuts in so it shouldn't even take more than a couple swings to knock it out. Then use a through bolt and fish a new nut in by taping/grease-gluing it into a wrench. I broke half the rear shock bolts on my 98 and it took me maybe an extra ten minutes to get the new shocks in because of it.
... on the other hand, on my 96, I broke all 4 and the nuts were MIG welded in so securely that I ended up having to cut holes in the floor to get at them, it took something like 8 hours to drill through them, cut through the floor, etc etc because IIRC I hadn't even found
yet and was flying completely blind. I bimmerjeeped that one pretty hard but still ended up getting it done the same day :dunce:
... on the other hand, on my 96, I broke all 4 and the nuts were MIG welded in so securely that I ended up having to cut holes in the floor to get at them, it took something like 8 hours to drill through them, cut through the floor, etc etc because IIRC I hadn't even found
yet and was flying completely blind. I bimmerjeeped that one pretty hard but still ended up getting it done the same day :dunce:
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
But did you have $1k in tools, and no channel locks?
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
I had to show my certificates when I bought my awl
Ya i got tools, in fact i have company service truck stocked with all my goodies, im a diesel,hydraulic tech. Anyway i got the lift on today (except the brake lines and sye) and two things are askew, 1st the body has a rake it sits a little higher in the rear than the front 1",intentional by design? The second is alittle more severe the steering wheel is half cocked to go straight, and it turns left on a dime but turns right on a half dollar so to speak, seems like i need to get all my linkages in order, however im using an re superflex at the heart of my build so seems a little odd
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