'96 XJ hasn't run for 10 years. What do I need to do?

Hey, y'all! Newbie to both the forum and Jeeping here.

I finally inherited my Dad's '96 Cherokee Country. It has been parked in the (wet) garage for the last 10 years or so and not run. The tires are flat and the battery's dead.

I know that just to get it running I need to drop in a new battery, clean the battery connections, inflate the tires, and get an oil change ASAP.

What else to I need to do or worry about? I am concerned that the internal engine parts are bone dry at this point. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I'd seriously think about flushing the fuel system. After ten years it is likely much of the fuel between the filter and the rail has turned to gum. On the 96 there is no fuel return, so anything between the fuel pump and the *injectors* has only one place to go, through the injectors.

I'd drain all (as much as possible) the fuel out of the tank at the filter, if you are lucky most will siphon out. At the very least look at the fuel, in a clean container, to see what comes out. I strain it through a funnel type automotive paint filter.

You can hook up a fuel line to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and run a few gallons of fuel from the tank into a container. Look to see what comes out.

You can back flush the fuel filter in the beginning, it will likely plug up again so putting a new one in there in the beginning is a waste.

You'll have to hook power up directly to the pump.

Also if it has been sitting that long you have check for Mouse nests. Look for Mouse poop, I've found them in the air box all the way to the rubber TB tube. I found one in a Dodge motor inside the intake manifold. They also like to chew on the wiring.

Your rear brake shoes may be rusted to the drum.

Turn the motor ovr by hand before you attempt to start it with the starter.

Probably a good idea to squirt some light spray oil into the spark plug holes, Don't overdo it.

If you pull the distributor to turn the oil pump with a cordless drill and a piece of steel dowel or tubing flattened on one end, put the distributor back in just like you took it out, without turning the motor over with the distributor out. I usually set the motor up to *1* TDC before I ever remove a distributor. That way I can just glance at the timing marks to see if the engine has moved any before I reinstall the distributor. Mark the rotor position on the outside of the distributor housing with a marker. Double check your firing order. I usually buy a roll of numbered cable marker tape ( a few bucks) and number the spark plug cables. A little dab of superglue will keep the numbered tape on there.

Check all the rubber for dry rot.

Thanks! Wow, not really something I am prepared to do in an hour. Guess I'll just tow it home dead and go through all of this there.

Thanks for the info.

If you flat tow it, read the towing instructions in the owners manual first. If the rear drums are frozen, a couple of whacks with a BFH usually loosens them back up again.

Not sure what you mean by "flat tow". This will be towed on a U-Haul auto transport, all four wheels off the road. Is that What you mean, or if you are talking about keeping its four paws on the pavement.

Got her towed up out of the garage this afternoon, so she's ready for tomorrow.

TikiTrk said:

Not sure what you mean by "flat tow". This will be towed on a U-Haul auto transport, all four wheels off the road. Is that What you mean, or if you are talking about keeping its four paws on the pavement.

Got her towed up out of the garage this afternoon, so she's ready for tomorrow.

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Flat tow would be all four or the rear two tires on the road.