Current draw problem - driving me nuts!

Hello all,

Ok, I've had this gremlin in my electrical system for...let's just say quite a while. Mainly, it's been that I have to leave my power window lockout button in the "locked" position or none of the windows work at all. I had the classic problem with my power locks, but that's been fixed for a while thanks to Greg Smith's power lock fix...until now.

The other night, I noticed that my power locks were not locking when signaled to. They unlock just fine, but locking is quite weak. I checked the two relays that were added when I did the Greg Smith fix and they both appear to be fine (both will click like they should when either the button on either front door is pushed to lock or unlock). Then I noticed while driving that my voltmeter gauge was reading a bit below the straight-up 13 mark, and that my dash lights & headlights were a bit dimmer than they should be. So at a red light, I put it in neutral and gave it some revs to see if maybe I just had a low battery or something. Revving the engine made almost no difference either on the gauge or in the brightness of my lights! I also noticed that my radar detector, which is wired into my fuse panel by my left foot, wasn't working (seemed to not be getting enough juice), and that if I flipped the window lock switch to "unlock", my voltmeter gauge would dive down as far left as it will go!!

So, knowing something is definitely amiss, I brought my Jeep home, parked it in my garage, pulled both front seats out and pulled the kick panel covers off both sides in preparation for investigative surgery. I repaired a couple of bad wires that run under the driver's feet a while back, so I'm thinking the problem is somewhere else. All power windows except for the driver's window have been sluggish for a long time...been meaning to pull the panels off and clean/lube the regulators...but I really don't think they're getting enough power in the first place. I've read a lot about the window lockout switch going bad a lot, but I've gotta have one heckuva short somewhere to have THAT much draw when the switch is flipped to unlock. Just not sure where! I've tried opening & closing my driver's door to see if that makes a difference, but I still get the same huge draw, so I don't THINK it's a short in the wiring going through the door jamb.

My XJ is an '87 Laredo 4-door AT with an aftermarket hi-amp alternator (which has a smaller than stock pulley on it). I do have an UngoBox alarm system, which I've had forever, but that's functioning fine...except that it won't lock my doors either. I haven't done anything to it recently that could be attributed to why all this is happening. And yes, I've spent the last few nights searching and searching, trying to find anyone who's had similar problems...but have come up with zilch.

Any helpful insight would be MOST appreciated!!

Peter

Lockout switch only removes power, doesn't draw anything.

None of the windows will draw anything with the switches in neutral.

Did you dissemble the drivers side controls and repair the bad solder connections before doing any "Fixes"?

What's your system voltage at the battery? Running/Not running.

Voltage at battery is 13.4 running, 12.5 not running. Sounds normal to me.

I just took the driver's side controls out, thinking I'd try swapping in a spare set I have. Anything I should check on either one/both beforehand?

Figured the switch shouldn't draw power, and therefore I have a short somewhere. Just not sure what to check or where to look.

Bad solder connections where?

First, fully charge the battery and have it load tested. This is always the first thing.

Second, well, you have already measured static and charging voltages--well done.

Third, determine if there is/are any key OFF parasitic draws. Google/youtube "auto parasitic draws".

Fourth, there are two basic circuits--switched and un-switched--door locks are un-switched, windows are switched. Try separating various suspect circuits from the system and see if anything changes.

And, most important of all--TEST EVERYTHING--do NOT assume something is not the problem, do NOT assume anything is "OK".

Sounds like you are on the right track with your trouble shooting procedures.

I once had similar problems with the locks in my XJ. Testing confirmed there was sufficient power at the lock solenoids to make every thing work properly. I ended up cleaning and lubing the solenoid plunger as well as all the linkages including the locks themselves. Now, no more problem.

Well...ummmm....this is just odd. Power locks are now working beautifully, although I have done absolutely nothing except put my driver's seat back in so I could make a trip to NAPA for pop rivets. Still seems like my charging system isn't charging like it was less than a week ago, and I now seem to have an idle problem when sitting at lights (idle drops slowly for about 5 seconds, then comes back up).

I'm SO glad the 4th is right around the corner so I can blow off (literally) some steam! ARRRRRRGGGHHHH!!!!

Anyone know a good XJ psychic?

ANY driveability issues--load test the battery and check your charging. I have seen techs waste hours when the issue was bad battery/cables/alternator.