Need Help Deciding On Axles.

Just saw this ad pop up on Craigslist. I think I'm going to go for it. The guy claims the axle seals need replacing. How hard is this?

Does this look like a good deal to you guys? Should I go for it?

I can't post Craigslist links from my phone but here's what the ad reads.


"for $1,000 you get the front end
bought my cherokee with this front end in it and i am now upgrading to a bigger one.
Dana 30 High Pinion axle, WJ knuckle/brake upgrade, high steer set up, 4.56, aussie locker, Chromo shafts, solid diff cover, new ball joints, Rubicon Express track bar system, steel braided brake lines, Rubicon Express 5.5 springs. i will throw in a waren skid plate and a few small things just because i want it out of my garage.

the axle is ready to bolt into your Cherokee XJ with little fab work. i suggest rebuilding the axle while its out with new seals as it leaks some, i've put about 5,000 miles on this jeep since i bought it last year with no problems.

for $800
the rear is an XJ D44 with bad drum brakes, 4.56, drop in aussie locker, Solid diff cover and stock shafts.
comes with ZJ brakes to upgrade to a disc rear from the factory drums, 5.5in lift leafs. 3 or 4 extra D44 shafts in-case you break one on a trail. the axle needs seals as well but nothing major.

give me $1,500 and you get pretty much everything under the unibody, MAYBE rear shocks and rear bumper
both axles will bolt into your XJ with no major fab work needed."

Sounds like a fair deal to me ... two built axles with suspension for $1500 or you could get yours regeared for about the same price, and have the gears and stock everything else ... I'd get the axles and swap them in.

For the front you may need to deal with a frame side trac bar bracket upgrade if it isn't included. And depending on what TRE's were used you may need to deal with some pitman arm mods (reaming for GM ends, driling for Heims ... or similar).

Start spraying those leaf bolts with PB blaster now though.

I believe that is sardo_67 selling those. Check his post in the NAC Classifieds subforum.

I know the guy whose jeep those axles came out of (rweaver138, he sold it to sardo_67 and his brother) and the guy who geared them (ktm racer 419) and they are well built, those guys do not turn out bad quality work.

edit: and I am pretty sure the ZJ disc brakes it comes with are the ones I helped rweaver138 pull at a local junkyard last summer sometime.

I was going to attempt to throw a lowball offer of around $1200 cash just to see if he bites.

*edit* If its a forum member I won't haggle him. Ill just straight up ask him what to do as it would be easier. That actually makes me happy. I'd be happy to dish out some cash for knowledge.

I figured the front wouldn't just bolt right up. The brakes he's describing are the WJ brakes, correct? Would you advise using the steering he provides or should I look to something else? I currently have an IRO double shear bar and the currie hd steering. (Just neefed up steering.) Would this become obsolete?

Will do. I have custom shackle relocation brackets I want to install as well.

Good luck "lowballing" him. First line of the ad: "First off, if you do not want to pay what I posted then don't waist your time talking to me. I am not a broke crack head who will sell you shit for pennies on the dollar. If they are high then go build this yourself for less."

And he is right, good luck building it yourself for less.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245941286#post245941286

Oh no. I'm not even going to try to lowball him. I only lowball the idiots on Craigslist just because its Craigslist and everyone knows its going to happen so they tack some dollars on it.

I'd rather pay what he's asking as he's way more knowledgeable than me and can most likely point me in the right direction. It's worth it.

I have everything you need to actually bolt these in. I do suggest you replace the hemis or switch over to offset TREs to give you more clearance.

Included is the RE trackbar set up is included however I can include the better Clayton track bar setup but you will need to buy the Clayton body mount since that is welded to my jeep and isn't coming off.

Read the last post in my thread, if you come this weekend and are cool ill include more shit for the same $1,500 price. I want this shit out of my driveway.



Also it's a good thing you didn't offer me $1,200. I would have just blocked your number just like the rest of them.

It would be awesome if you could elaborate more on that first sentence. The only reason my dumbass stayed with inverted Y steering (the $500 currie setup) was because i was too dumb to figure out inverted T or the workings of it. How would i 'switch over to offset TREs' and how much would that cost me?

Is the clayton bar special or something? I have an IRO double shear bar. I'm assuming i'd need the clayton for a reason?

Also do you know why the axle leaks? I'd assume seals, but honestly, i have no clue on how to change those and i don't want to have to even think about touching the gears. I'll mess something up in about 5 seconds. If it's something easy i'm sure i could figure it out.

My other question. For the brakes, did you upgrade anything on your jeep to accommodate the WJ brakes? (booster, master, whatever else works the brakes, etc?)

Honestly, i'm just a 17 year old working a summer job attempting to piece my jeep together. $1,200 would of been nice, but for the knowledge you have, and the ability to deal with my constant questions, it's worth an extra $300.

The only thing i'm not sure on is my schedule. I just get called randomly when i need to work and can't really go 'i have x off'.

stick with heims, i went through the offset TRE's VERY fast when i had them on my wj swap.

You would need the clayton track bar he is running OTA trac bar mount and you will not be able to use your IRO trac bar

agreed with vanimal I'd stay with the heims over the offset TRE's

seals are not bad....if you can pull an axle you can figure out how to replace a seal

This bracket? - http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/18_78/products_id/309

What does "OTA" stand for? I can't find it anywhere.

This would be mostly bolt in without me spending another hefty penny, correct? After dropping $1,500 i won't have much more room to buy extra parts that become needed.

That makes me feel better. No pulling gears to replace seals, correct?

OTA = Over the Axle. With OTk steering, or crossover steering you need OTA track bar mount to keep the links parallel.

95+ XJ's already have a dual diapraghm booster. So no need to go bigger.

16" wheels are necessary, unless you have enough BS in 15" wheels to clear the ends @ the knuckles.

Sounds like your not ready to do an axle swap.... What size tires are you running?

It is a good deal on the axles so I would recommend get them but set them aside and do some research as well as save up some more cash before trying to swap them in.

yea if 1500 taps you out I'd do what whitexj recommends. Problem with doing things on xj's or any vehicle for that matter things tend to break during dissassembly costing you more money and your jeeps is on stands for that much longer. or you need different parts to accomadate the new upgrades

could you give us more info on your xj?

to asnwer your question involving the seals the rear you will have to pull the shafts off to replace the tube seals. If its the pinion seal leaking then you need to un do the nut holding the yoke onto the pinion pull the yoke off and replace the pinion seal. then put the yoke back on. get a new pinion nut while your at it and torque to spec.

if the d30 is leaking then yes you will have to pull the ring gear and carrier. as well as pulling the shafts out to (hint keep the hubs on just undo the (3) 13mm 12pt bolts behind the hub and pull them out as a complete unit). then you will need to punch out the seals (a socket and a series of extensions work fine) then reverse precedure to put them back in.

d30 pinion seal is same as d44 pinion seal and torque to spec. (HAVE A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH)

if you need help let me know I'd be happy to help out a fellow xj'er if need be but I think sardo has ya covered.

whitexj98 said:

Sounds like your not ready to do an axle swap.... What size tires are you running?

It is a good deal on the axles so I would recommend get them but set them aside and do some research as well as save up some more cash before trying to swap them in.

Click to expand...

I know i'm more than capable of swapping an axle. I just don't know anything about over the knuckling steering or anything of that sorts. I just stuck with the inverted Y steering as i didn't need to change anything. That's the only thing i'm concerned with.

If the HP D30 he was selling had stock XJ brakes on it i could just use my current setup and have no problems at all. I'm not going to rip off upgraded WJ brakes though just to make it easier on me. I'd rather learn how to make it work on my jeep. Live and learn. Nothings impossible.

Getting the steering to work is my biggest concern. I'm totally illiterate on OTK steering or anything of that sorts. I'm going to start reading up on it though.

Current tires are BFG KM2 32x11.5x15s. Want to step up to 35x12.5x15s when these current tires bald.

Let me put it this way. $1,500 will not 'tap me out'. I just like to research everything beforehand before i make an impulse buy. I hate rushing myself into things without doing the proper research first, but i know that this is one of those things that if i wait too long someone else is going to snag them up.

When you say i need 16" wheels does that mean i need to buy new rims but my tires will still work? Or would i need 35x12.5x16 tires as well? My current rims are crager soft 8s with 4.5 or 4.75" backspacing. Honestly, i'm not sure how to measure rims. I'd have to read up on that as well.

MY XJ;

99 XJ/4.0/AW4/Np242.
Rough Country 4.5" Long Arms.
32x11.5x15 tires

I think that's all you need to know?

Does pulling the ring gear and carrier affect the gears? I've read a million things on how to gear axles and it appears to need some serious precision tools that i know i do not have and i do not want to buy. If i can do the seals without messing with the backlash or anything like that i'm sure i could figure it out. If not, i'm sure someone would be willing to help.

I have a 1/2" Snap On torque wrench that should work just ducky for torquing to spec.

Yes that is the bracket you will need. Right now you can throw the front in and go, it just leaks some. Seals for a D30 are what $30 from the local store? It's just axle seals, no pinion problems.
I only used the Clayton parts because I work there, the RE set up will work, just replace the heim if the squeaking bothers you. I drove this since December with only front brakes and the steering was fine, just getting worn and squeaks requiring a louder radio or some WD40.

I was running this with 15in rims, but will be using offset TREs on my new axle so I have more clearance on the drag link. Ruff stuff sells a deal link kit for about $140.

Like the others have said, get the axles and wait a little to fix what is required and then put them in. I figure to make these "work" like $100 more is needed, work nicely say $200 and to make these like new and perfect $400.

In just gears and lockers alone there is $1,000.

You posted that as I was typing mine.

The steering isn't and issue for you, the work is done. Just drill out your pitman arm and bolt this link in. That's about it.

thats a crazy good deal for all of that. I would jump on that setup in heartbeat. youll regret it surely.

Kingkong0192 said:

Does pulling the ring gear and carrier affect the gears? I've read a million things on how to gear axles and it appears to need some serious precision tools that i know i do not have and i do not want to buy. If i can do the seals without messing with the backlash or anything like that i'm sure i could figure it out. If not, i'm sure someone would be willing to help.

I have a 1/2" Snap On torque wrench that should work just ducky for torquing to spec.

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Get a reading on the back lash first before you pull the carrier and ring gear....than follow previously mentioned process to replace seals...shims are on behind the pressed on bearings on that d30 of yours...keep the out bearing cups with the specific side...back lash won't be messed up since your just replacing seals, I just like to get a reading before I pull something.

Their is a pre-load set on that carrier so do not expect it to fall right out. Also keep track of where everything goes

other than that do more research you have a few days until the weekend which is more than enough time to become more up-to-date on what you need and it is definitely out their on all the questions you have.

sardo_67 said:

Yes that is the bracket you will need. Right now you can throw the front in and go, it just leaks some. Seals for a D30 are what $30 from the local store? It's just axle seals, no pinion problems.
I only used the Clayton parts because I work there, the RE set up will work, just replace the heim if the squeaking bothers you. I drove this since December with only front brakes and the steering was fine, just getting worn and squeaks requiring a louder radio or some WD40.

I was running this with 15in rims, but will be using offset TREs on my new axle so I have more clearance on the drag link. Ruff stuff sells a deal link kit for about $140.

Like the others have said, get the axles and wait a little to fix what is required and then put them in. I figure to make these "work" like $100 more is needed, work nicely say $200 and to make these like new and perfect $400.

In just gears and lockers alone there is $1,000.

Click to expand...

You have a link to the heim i would need? Or a link to the ruffstuff kit i would need? Would make my life much easier as i know that's exactly what i need.

Did you have any rubbing/clearance issues with the setup on your 15" rims?

So for roughly another $400 i could have this working in like new condition?

Oh, i know. I'm not trying to haggle you at all and say it isn't worth what you're asking. That's just for the parts ... nevermind paying someone to install it and the cost of just the axle and the shafts and the leafs and the coils.

It's also a blessing that you're willing to help as i'm still slightly clueless.