couple little items

SO ... still got a couple small isses with the MJ left ...

1. Wipers only work in slow and fast mode, no delay, and fast mode is the same speed as fast. The wipers will park wherever I happen to kill the switch but if I roll back for mist they will park correctly. There is play in the linkage but I know how to fix that (just dealt with that one on my '00XJ).
Could this all be related to a bad Intermittant Wiper Control Module? If so anyone have a part number for one for an '88?

2. Center console latch is broken, the little nub that locks in is busted off the mechanism, otherwise the lid is in excellent shape? Are the latches still available? Haven't been able to find them anywhere.

3. Door hinges are tearing from the body, but is the reverse direction of all I've seen pictures of (the fender side is still good but the door side had torn out). The door stop is broken so I'm guessing that's the cause there. I'm going to try and snake some 1/4" in and botl it back into position ... and the same for the lower which is in the same condition. The passenger side is fine, would it be worth the time to re-inforce that side as well? Also plan to add the late model door stops and shim them a bit so the door doesn't open as wide.

Thanks for any advice/help
Dave

Devilfrog said:

2. Center console latch is broken, the little nub that locks in is busted off the mechanism, otherwise the lid is in excellent shape? Are the latches still available? Haven't been able to find them anywhere.

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Team Cherokee?

Original_MudButt said:

Team Cherokee?

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That would be a negative ... just checked.

Going to have to find someone parting an 88-96? XJ I guess, nothing up this way that's for sure ... haven't seen an XJ or MJ in the wrecking yards for a few years.

My wipers did the same on my 99. I "borrowed" my wiper motor from my 95 and all the speeds work fine now. As for the door bolts, I found it MUCH easier to torch the torque bolts out and replace them with standard bolts to get wrench in to that spot, welded new spots for the hinges. As for a console, just go to a junkyard and get the entire console lid. It's 3 phillips screws IIRC.

jeepman121 said:

My wipers did the same on my 99. I "borrowed" my wiper motor from my 95 and all the speeds work fine now. As for the door bolts, I found it MUCH easier to torch the torque bolts out and replace them with standard bolts to get wrench in to that spot, welded new spots for the hinges. As for a console, just go to a junkyard and get the entire console lid. It's 3 phillips screws IIRC.

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Problem is there are no XJ's or MJ's in the yards around here. I'm working on the '88 MJ right now (well not at the moment, it's ~500kms away) ... XJ is in the shop getting more welding done to the 3-link front.

Picked up a console latch used off ebay just now, so that's covered.
Going to bypass the module when I get home first and see what happens ... that'll at least let me know if it's the motor or module I hope.
The side of the hinge is perfectly fine, no ned to fuss with that ... it's the welded side that's giving me issues.

When the park circuit on my 87 went bad, the wipers would park properly only in delay mode. I never quite figured out why, but when I opened the motor up, I found a damaged contact, fixed it and thereafter the wipers parked properly. I also found that it worked at about the same speed for both high and low due to worn bushings. (e.t.a. I figured out why they didn't park normally. What I never figured out was why the did park in intermittent mode!)

The crown gear of the wiper motor has copper strips in channels, and contact wipers that engage them. One of these is for park, and if you're lucky and it's not utterly fried, you can sometimes bend it back, as well as cleaning the copper in the channels. While you're at it, clean the motor up and lubricate the output shaft bearing and things should be a little better, though if the bearing is wallowed out it will never be quite right.

As I recall, the intermittent wiper module is the same for many years, through 95 or 96. It's a Delco unit, and I'm pretty sure it's common to a number of other vehicles. It plugs right into the harness, so you can take it out to compare. If you have a junkyard handy, check Chevy trucks from the 80's and 90's, among others. I'm pretty sure they're the same. You can run the wipers without the module in at all (just take it out and plug the harness back together), and if the parking problem persists you can be sure it's not in the module. Don't put the switch in intermittent mode when trying this.

As you note, a broken door stop will result in torn out hinges, with the trailing edge of the hinge pulling outward. There is a second stop in the hinge itself, and when this engages, the hinge will tear out. If the stops get slack, or if the body area the stop engages bellies out (not uncommon in two door XJ's), the hinge stop will engage first. You can correct for this after you've done the repair, by filing back the stops in the hinge a little, and/or by shortening the rod in the stop. If you weld, just weld the little hole shut, drill another hole a quarter inch or so further back, grind the end down a little, and reinstall it. The door will now not swing so far out, and the hinges will not tear off so readily.

Well, on the drive home from work I got high speed back. Park still off in nowhere land. Seems more of a drag issue. But I'll see when Idl get the chance to tear into it. Thanks for the info. Right now I look like a YJ.
Had the MAP plastic vacuum line snap on me as well. That was a 3000rpm idle issue. Once I found the line, was an easy enough fix using some of the old vacuum harnesses. Is there a better replacement for the throttle body rubber plug? Was thinking about either blocking that off and running off the manifold ports or using steel brakeline to replace the few plastic lines I have left.

Is there any issues with running the MAP sensor off manifold vacuum from the intake or does it need to pull from the throttle body plug doomahickey?

May have just sorted the high idle issue. Replaced the small plastic vacuum lines (MAP, and FPR) with 3/16" brakline, cleaned the TB and IAC. STILL wanted to run at 3000rpm.
Then looked at the throttle linkage, and since I've been fixing "mouth reader" repairs all over this truck ... I adjusted the TB linkage. It would apear the PO or his "mechanic" adjusted the throttle plate ... Likely in an attemp to solve the low stumbly idle issue. So now that I have the motor running better ... It wants to race.
And after replacing the driver side door lock cylinder ... I'm almost willing to live with three keys. Wasn't fun.

I had a similar issue with my 87 long ago, in which a previous owner had apparently tried to solve a combination of TPS misadjustment and C-101 connector corrosion by adjusting the throttle plate. Needless to say it never worked quite right, and owing to a little wear, it sometimes hung up and opened with a snap. Somewhere, I no longer remember where, I found some guide to readjusting the plate. I don't remember the precise amount, but as I recall it's supposed to stay open by about enough to clear a piece of paper at the middle.

Yeah, this one was open enough to cause a 2500-3000rpm idle.

Adjusted it so there was just a hint of movement past fully closed. PO has apparently tried a number of old school, dumbass, get it sold tricks trying to fix non existant problems. Most were caused by his "fixes".
Took the MJ on it's first long haul to work, changed oil before I left and it's now holding better oil pressure after the first 100kms of the 254km run to Tofino. I couldn't get a filter in time though so just the oil was changed. Going to get a new OFA nipple so I can use a late model filter as well.
Ran great, trouble free (other than the rough stumbling idle issue), but ran cold ... leads me to believe the PO pulled the thermostat, not changed it as he told me. Already have the new one in the glove box.
Still need to check fuel pressure as it takes about 3-4 seconds of cranking to fire, but being my first Renix ... that normal? Starts like a carbureted truck, not right off like my XJ does. Doesn't bother me, just wondering. Got to buy new cables next week when I get home, the main ground cable (batt to block) has almost lost it's cover, it's pretty had.

replaced the trackbar, bracket is ovalled but have a new one I'm picking up on the way home. Noticed the new MOOG DS1147 actually moved the axle off center to passenger side 1/-3/4" ... looks like I'll need to raise the front back to stock ride height. Might raise it 1.5-2" anyway. Feels like I'm sitting on the road.

Just gotta say ... driving and wrenching on this old girl is simple fun. Haven't had to fight much of any bolts so far, hell, the tracbar swap took 15 minutes ... and the flagged axle end bolt is still doing it's thing nicely. that was shocking, expected a fight.
Tossed the bed liner and the box is rubbed but pretty much rust free underneath, another nice surprise.
still trying to decide what color to paint it, thinking solar yellow/black accent might look nice split on the body lines. Just gotta get the decals off first, and prep/prime the rusted sections (rear cab lip and top rail of box, mainly from surface rub, no bubbling).

Long initial crank on Renix is normal. Probably the check valve in the fuel system allowing it to depressurize. Fuel pump runs for a few seconds after ignition goes on, so try leaving ignition on for a few seconds before cranking, or, in worse cases, cycling ignition on and off two or three times before cranking. If this results in quicker starts, it's probably no worry. More trouble to fix than to live with. Even with perfect fuel pressure, a Renix will take 3 or 4 engine revolutions before the computer fires the ignition (needed because timing is set by crank position, not distributor).

Oil filter brand can make a measurable difference in running pressure. I got better results from Wix, Bosch and K&N than with most others. Wix is my go-to for everything. NAPA Gold is a Wix too, I think.

You probably have already gone through this, but make sure you "burp" the cooling system, by running with cap off until the thermostat opens, then adding coolant until it stops burping.

Matthew Currie said:

Long initial crank on Renix is normal. Probably the check valve in the fuel system allowing it to depressurize. Fuel pump runs for a few seconds after ignition goes on, so try leaving ignition on for a few seconds before cranking, or, in worse cases, cycling ignition on and off two or three times before cranking. If this results in quicker starts, it's probably no worry. More trouble to fix than to live with. Even with perfect fuel pressure, a Renix will take 3 or 4 engine revolutions before the computer fires the ignition (needed because timing is set by crank position, not distributor).

Oil filter brand can make a measurable difference in running pressure. I got better results from Wix, Bosch and K&N than with most others. Wix is my go-to for everything. NAPA Gold is a Wix too, I think.

You probably have already gone through this, but make sure you "burp" the cooling system, by running with cap off until the thermostat opens, then adding coolant until it stops burping.

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thanks, figured as much ... I'm pretty fluent in burping the 4.0's cooling system, even added a burp vale to the upper rad hose as it's always the hardest to clear.